I'm about to throw the level x out the window please help

[snoopay700]

The carrier was sealing yesterday as well. Its just that 1st pull chuff and apparently a leak when I hold down the trigger. I am going to de-oil the back of my bolt and oring. Also witch on/off oring would cause a leak with the trigger pulled in?


-Barry

Ps I really appreciate the help.

That sounds more like a problem with your on/off. If it's old, you may want to replace the o-rings, so check your on'off assembly, because if it leaks when you hold down the trigger it is most likely due to that not sealing right.

[phatty123]

Well thanks for all the help. It is finally working properly. I didn't have enough oring to replace both of the small on/off orings, but I did replace the bottom one and remove clean and re-lube the top one. I also inspected my bolt and the bumper oring and sure enough there was a ton of oil and it was created a suction. I dryed the rear of the bolt and the valve body and the oring it self. My tank only had 400 psi in it, but for about 30 shots it cycled the level 10 bolt properly. It had no leaks with the trigger pulled or release and it didnt chuff once. I'm just guessing that with the tankactually full and 1200psi running into the valve that it will perform even better. I assume I definately wont have chuffs when it has the right pressure going into it.

Again thank you all very much and it is appreciated.


-barry

[snoopay700]

Well thanks for all the help. It is finally working properly. I didn't have enough oring to replace both of the small on/off orings, but I did replace the bottom one and remove clean and re-lube the top one. I also inspected my bolt and the bumper oring and sure enough there was a ton of oil and it was created a suction. I dryed the rear of the bolt and the valve body and the oring it self. My tank only had 400 psi in it, but for about 30 shots it cycled the level 10 bolt properly. It had no leaks with the trigger pulled or release and it didnt chuff once. I'm just guessing that with the tankactually full and 1200psi running into the valve that it will perform even better. I assume I definately wont have chuffs when it has the right pressure going into it.

Again thank you all very much and it is appreciated.


-barry

Well i'm glad that you got it working. The main thing to remember is if it's leaking when the trigger isn't pulled, it's the power tube o-ring (the level 10 part) and if it leaks when the trigger is pulled it's the on/off.

[phatty123]

Well i'm glad that you got it working. The main thing to remember is if it's leaking when the trigger isn't pulled, it's the power tube o-ring (the level 10 part) and if it leaks when the trigger is pulled it's the on/off.

Yeah I had 3 seperate problem while playing yesterday. I had a bolt chuffing because it was stuck to the oiled up bumper, I had a leaky on/off, and I had my field strip screw to tight causing it to fail to fire all together.


-Barry

[lidocaine]

just curious but what do you all mean " the proper way to chrono an RT valve"?

[snoopay700]

just curious but what do you all mean " the proper way to chrono an RT valve"?

You fire it and hold the tirgger, then let off and fire it again as it simulates rapid fire, just firing it once won't give you an accurate reading as the speed can go up during rapid fire.

[BigTrucker]

This is what happened to me today. After reading this trend i went and dropped some oil right into the valve itself and the chuffing went away. Now my question is will the lack of oil affect the velocity also???

[Coralis]

its possible if you have a very tight level 10 carrier that causing some air loss when the bolt is moving through its first 1/4" of travel, the most likely cause of a inconsistent velocity though would be the regulator seat needing replacing.

[BigTrucker]

its possible if you have a very tight level 10 carrier that causing some air loss when the bolt is moving through its first 1/4" of travel the most likely cause of a inconsistent velocity though would be the regulator seat needing replacing.

Tha valve itself is les the 6 months old so every thing is new.

[Coralis]

some people recommend replacing the regulator seat every time the valve halves are unscrewed .

[snoopay700]

some people recommend replacing the regulator seat every time the valve halves are unscrewed .

I wouldn't see why, as it's exposed to the air before you put it in, and also it wouldn't affect the level 10.

[georgeyew]

I wouldn't see why, as it's exposed to the air before you put it in, and also it wouldn't affect the level 10.

It's not the air that affects the regulator seat, it is the way that the seat is aligned when the 2 halves are screwed back in place. Sometimes it will not align up exactly the same causing a leak from the back of the valve.

[lidocaine]

so you hold the trigger down, let off then quickly fire one shot without holding it down and it will do the r/t effect?

Just wondering, just got a tac one :)

[phatty123]

There is instructions on airguns website and a video on youtube. I didnt know my thread would get this big.



-Barry

[secretweaponevan]

so you hold the trigger down, let off then quickly fire one shot without holding it down and it will do the r/t effect?

Just wondering, just got a tac one :)

It will have a Reactive Trigger effect no matter if you hold it down after the shot or not. The RT Chronographing technique means to:
1. hold the trigger down
2. release the trigger, then quickly pull it again and hold it.
3. repeat as necessary to properly chrono.

RT valves recharge so fast that the air and valve actually heat up. Since PV = nRT where P=pressure, V=volume, n=moles of gas, T=temperature, R is the gas constant, an increase in Temperature leads directly to an increase in Pressure, which means a higher velocity. If you aren't chrono'ing your RT valve this way, you are basically cheating. This technique simulates rapid fire, where an RT valve will have its highest velocity.