more info on RT

[marked74]

http://www.zdspb.com/media/tech/anim...emag2_6fps.gif

Every mag owner should have this memorized. Just stare at it a while, you'll get it all eventually. That's the lvl10 bolt btw.

Wow - that is fantastic!!! That's exactly what I needed! Thanks!! Now I know what the on/off does, and where the top, bottom, and pin are. Still have to figure out what part of that is the reg piston though.

[trevorjk]

the green thing on the back

[marked74]

the green thing on the back

Makes sense - I should have figured that out since it's operating as a piston And, the red dots behind it - that's the valve spring pack?

[trevorjk]

Makes sense - I should have figured that out since it's operating as a piston And, the red dots behind it - that's the valve spring pack?

correct

[marked74]

OK - got my Action Village order AND my AGD order in a day apart. Very nice. So last night I disassembled the bolt and valve to clean everything and replace all the o-rings. I ran into a snag with the RT on/off. The halves won't separate. It's totally different from the classic valve on/off, which has a brass top and bottom. This one has a brass bottom, but the top is the same material as the valve (stainless?) ans shaped differently. Anyway per the diagram there's a small o-ring in between the two. I can't get them separated. I found a wrench sized to fit the top (stainless) half perfectly, but couldn't find anything - standard or metric - that would fit the brass bottom half. And it was late, and I really wanted to get this thing done, so I tried using my teeth to hold it. I know most of you know, but n00bs - DON'T DO WHAT I DID!!! Brass is soft enough that your teeth will gouge it. I'm not even kidding.

Guessing I need a new on/off assembly? This stuff is so precision that I'm thinking the gouges could cause enoug hspace for a leak or something and cause it to function improperly... Would I be right?

[DanMan]

Use an ajustable wrench for the bottom. The marks on the outside shoud be ok because the on off is sealed by an oring.

[trevorjk]

yeah just put the new o-rings on, oil it up. put it back in

could be all you need to do

[marked74]

Use an ajustable wrench for the bottom. The marks on the outside shoud be ok because the on off is sealed by an oring.

I actually did try that, but for whatever reason the tiny adjustable wrench I have wouldn't open or close. It's stuck where it is, even after oiling it and wd-40-ing it... I tried some small pliers I have that don't have grooved teeth on them, but they were no help either. Spose I'll try a bigger adjustable - which means I have to go buy one

[trevorjk]

can you get us a picture of it?

because the rt on-ff should just pull apart. where as the ULTrigger is threaded.

if i remember correctly

[marked74]

can you get us a picture of it?

because the rt on-ff should just pull apart. where as the ULTrigger is threaded.

if i remember correctly

Absolutely - will do tonight hopefulyl, if not then tomorrow. I tried pulling it apart as well as unscrewing it. The sucker wouldn't budge either way.

[trevorjk]

Absolutely - will do tonight hopefulyl, if not then tomorrow. I tried pulling it apart as well as unscrewing it. The sucker wouldn't budge either way.

did you try putting some oil into the holes and on the pin. then moving the pin up and down to work the oil into the on/off? that could help it budge

[marked74]

did you try putting some oil into the holes and on the pin. then moving the pin up and down to work the oil into the on/off? that could help it budge

Good idea - I had put oil in it when it was out (off the pin) but all it did was slip through my fingers. Using the pin could totally work.

[marked74]

OK got some pics of the on/off:



and

[athomas]

That's a retro valve on-off. It should pull apart. Try twisting it as you pull. Use a pair of pliers on each piece for better grip. Don't apply enough pressure to crush the parts though.

[marked74]

That's a retro valve on-off. It should pull apart. Try twisting it as you pull. Use a pair of pliers on each piece for better grip. Don't apply enough pressure to crush the parts though.

Tried that, and they still wouldn't budge (?) I actually damaged the brass part of the on/off enough so that it won't fit all the way back into the valve. Can't necessarily see it in my cheap digi pics, but the edge of the smooth face of it is pushed out to the side a bit - I'm thinking that's why it won't fit. I don't really want to force it into the vavle opening...