Paint chopping with a WL ULE?

[Enhander]

So Im getting my Warp left ULE body for my Emag and Im worried that its going to cause me the same problems that my Warp left Tac body did on my Tac-One.

Heres a little history:
Back when I got my Tac-One I got a whole Warp setup for it. After hooking everything up and milling my rail I took it out to a scenario. I was more than displeased with with results.
It would CONSTANTLY chop like crazy.

I got home from the scenario very upset cause I had to sit out half of the day. I initially thought that the problem was the lvl 10. Before I got too indepth in working on it I decided to put the Vert feed tac body back on it (after cleaning everything). I was almost afraid to shoot it, but I took it outsite and was able to rip through a hopper of paint...with no chops whatsoever. The Tac worked flawlessly. So being the genious that I am I thought "wow, the problems fixed". I proceeded to install the WL body back on it with the Warp. Took it back outside.....and it chopped like crazy again. I eventually sold the whole warp setup.

Enter my Emag.

I just bought a brand new warp setup for it. Vert feed Tac-Body soon to be replaced with the ULE Warp Left body. Do any of you have any tips for me so my Emag doesnt turn into a blender when I use the WL body? I have the parabolic feed plug, which I dont think I had on my other setup. I will also be milling the rail myself. Does anyone have pics of what a milled rail should look like so I know how much to grind off?

Any help or tips are greatly appreciated.

Thanks guys

[stoffa15]

Blender

I had all the problems in the world before I installed a lvl X on my Mag. when using a warpfeed there always has to be enough balls in the stack or else your going to have half feeds or mis-feeds.If your not going to get the lvl 10 this is what you should do. before firing turn on your hopper, then advance the balls all the way into your breach. never let your hopper go fully empty or else you'll starve your warp.

To avoid all of these problems just get the lvl10 bolt. you'll be so amazed at how gentle it is on paint.

[punkncat]

He is saying that previously he had issues in spite of having LX.

I dunno, never had a problem with chopping with a warp setup any more than anyting else. Perhaps there was something wrong with a that particular body or something. I would say it was a fluke.

[dark blade]

enhander, i had this exact problem with a tac-one WL body... i have NO idea what causes it... i wish i did but i honestly dont. I posted a thread about it back then and no one had any answers.

I then tried another warp left body and it was perfectly fine. i really have no idea what the problem was.

[secretweaponevan]

Did you have your LVL 10 tuned properly?

A properly tuned LVL 10 and a parabolic feed plug will make a world of difference.

That, and as said, don't starve the warp.

How was your warp set up? Intellifeed, or vibriation? How was your dwell? Did you try different detentes in the tac body?

You only need to take off a little bit of the rail to fit the body. Here is the quickest pick I could find:

[BigEvil]

You might want to up the dwell on the warp feed to make the motor turn a little longer. Also check to make sure that the warp is not pushing paint past the detent and loading 1+1/2 balls.

Oh yeah, and that intellifeed cable for the emag to the warp works wonders as well.

[Enhander]

Did you have your LVL 10 tuned properly?

A properly tuned LVL 10 and a parabolic feed plug will make a world of difference.

That, and as said, don't starve the warp.

How was your warp set up? Intellifeed, or vibriation? How was your dwell? Did you try different detentes in the tac body?

You only need to take off a little bit of the rail to fit the body. Here is the quickest pick I could find:

My LVL10 was factory tuned. But I didnt have a Parabolic feed plug at the time.

My previous Warp setup was via the Intellifeed and I had the stock detents. I cant find anywhere that sells the Killa Detents. ActionVillage has them but they've been out of stock for as long as I can remember.

Thanks for the pic. That gives me a good idea of what I need to do.

[Enhander]

Ill have to read the manual for the warp, the dwell on the warp still confuses me. I do have the Intellifeed cable for the Emag to warp...Its awesome

You might want to up the dwell on the warp feed to make the motor turn a little longer. Also check to make sure that the warp is not pushing paint past the detent and loading 1+1/2 balls.

Oh yeah, and that intellifeed cable for the emag to the warp works wonders as well.

[BigEvil]

Ill have to read the manual for the warp, the dwell on the warp still confuses me.

Me too . I think you need to remove jumpers to increase the dwell time, but double check the manual.

http://www.airgundesignsusa.com/downloads/WarpInstructions.pdf

[Enhander]

It says "The more jumpers you install, the shorter the time the wheel will spin" Im taking it I want less jumpers then?

Me too . I think you need to remove jumpers to increase the dwell time, but double check the manual.
http://www.airgundesignsusa.com/down...structions.pdf

[BigEvil]

It says "The more jumpers you install, the shorter the time the wheel will spin" Im taking it I want less jumpers then?

Yup. If my failing and limited brain recalls, I have one jumper on now that I think of it. I have never had good luck with shorter dwells on my warp. I also have a 12v mod, which IMO is a must.

[Enhander]

Cool, Ill have to adjust it when i get home. I unfortunatley dont have any air to test it...cause Im having some problems with my Emag as well. How framilair are you with the Emag with 1.8 Xmod?

Yup. If my failing and limited brain recalls, I have one jumper on now that I think of it. I have never had good luck with shorter dwells on my warp. I also have a 12v mod, which IMO is a must.

[BigEvil]

Cool, Ill have to adjust it when i get home. I unfortunatley dont have any air to test it...cause Im having some problems with my Emag as well. How framilair are you with the Emag with 1.8 Xmod?

Pretty familiar What's up with it?

[Enhander]

Heres my other thread.

http://automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=244770

Can you give me a diagnosis

[BigEvil]

Heres my other thread.

http://automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=244770

Can you give me a diagnosis

Lets see

The switch wont move at all.

Do you mean the selector switch or the trigger? Without seeing it in person its tough to call. If the selector wont move, it is possible either the the little bb and spring inside popped out and got jammed, OR the set screw adjuster used for the trigger moved in and is locking everything in place.

So I got home and after some in depth maintainence it appeared that the noid was stuck.

It is possible to bend the plunger assembly. Take the grips off. Tilt the gun forwards and back. The plunger assembly should move absolutely freely without any binding.

You will also notice that the plunger is threaded on a rod connected to the sear. There is a specific length that whole assembly needs to be in order to work. If its too short, not enough of the plunger will be in the solenoid for it to 'pull' on. If its too long, it will chip the front of the sear.

If you down load the manual for Xmod (www.neidtech.com (or NIEDTECH I never remember the correct spelling)) you will see that there are highly detailed instructions on how to set up all of the specifications along with pics. Lornecash also gives a link to a set of $16 Harbor Freight calipers. You will need similar to make the measurements, and it is a good tool to own and learn how to use when you are a mag zealot.

With the electronics on, I continued to pull the trigger and finally the noid started clicking like crazy (in fact I think it was working better than before) .

Check to make sure the magnet in the trigger is properly activating the HES and firing the gun. On the XMOD menu, go to TRG ACE. Pull the trigger, and a red square should light up every time you do. If not, adjust that magnet in the trigger in or out until it does. You can also use the trigger adjustment in the selector switch of the frame that I mentioned before to move the trigger travel length.

Just curious as to if anyone else has encountered this. Additionally, the board seemed to freeze when i had this problem, but after it was resolved the board (software) worked flawlessly.

That is usually a sign that the trigger magnet is too close to the HES. In TRG ACE if the light doesnt go OFF when you release the trigger, back the magnet out away from the HES sensor behind the trigger.

I know Lornecash has altered the default Xmod settings, so if you are not sure, start off with these;

SEMI
DWELL = 20
ROF = 15
FIX = 15

If the gun still bounces when you are shooting in Emode up the FIX value. If you are above 25 then something else is going on there causing it to run away. Which leads me to -

hmm ok, I think thats my problem. When I pull the trigger in Emode, the trigger is hitting the Trigger rod. Ill take a pic of it when i get home and post it on here so you can see.

The Xmod manual also describes how to set the trigger rod length. Again, you need a caliper to measure it. Depending on what trigger you have on the gun you may need to tinker with that spec. It will work with the stock emag trigger, but none of the aftermarket ones. You even need to shorten it a little more than standard spec for the Tunablade or it will bounce.

Did I miss anything?