RT Pro valve

[need4reebs]

did you blow a burst disk on your tank reg...sounds like that could have happened and the valve started leaking out the back to relieve tha pressure? and you prolly just had a burr in the body where the bolt slides thru...had that happen before

[Cokrkilr]

It shouldn't have blown a burst disk? Its a brand new regulator. The tank was still holding air, the gun wasnt... ill drain the tank out and check the reg though just to be sure

[athomas]

A) lvl 10 bolt doesn't fit through my emag body, fits my standard. Not emag. ****fixed

Check the body washer. If the hole through it is mushroomed, you can take the excess metal off with a file.

B) had a leak, fixed

Nothing to add here.

C) had a .71 pin in it, rt'd like crazy with my pneu setup, changed to .750 wouldn't shoot consistantly

Check the on-off oring configuration. If the valve had a quad oring to complement the emag 0.712" pin, then the longer 0.750" pin might cause slow charge/short stroking issues. Change to a regular oring or use a pin shorter than 0.750". You can simulate a shorter pin by adding level 10 or ULT shims in between the on-off halves. Just don't use too many or it will put pressure on and bind the top oring.

D) out of nowhere something made a pop and drained my tank out of the back AND top vent hole (velocity?)

A leak in the valve's regulator seat oring could cause an over pressure situation. If the leak was caused by a blown oring, then it would continually dump air until the air source is removed.

E) I replaced the on off oring (the one in the valve body itself) and now the on off assembly is NOT flush with the bottom of the valve. It still fits inside the body and the lower oring seals the on off... the flat area is just not sitting on the flat area of the valve anymore, if that makes sense?

If the valve fits into the gun properly, then it is fine. If not, then something is interfering with the proper seating of the assembly. Do you have both orings in there? I guess this valve probably only uses the one oring above the on-off top, so it should fit down in the recess but there may be some outward pressure on the assembly which will keep it from sitting all the way in the on-off assembly hole when at rest out of the body.

F) I leaked out 2k psi in my tank and wont have air till tomorrow! its not enough left to let the gun fire, just enough to play "imaginary" paintball with my pneu trigger

I found the air leak out the back weird because I turned the velocity waaaaaay down and slowly came back up with it till it shot. Then it sat for a second and just blew out.

You might have had an oring that was barely hanging on.

[athomas]

It shouldn't have blown a burst disk? Its a brand new regulator. The tank was still holding air, the gun wasnt... ill drain the tank out and check the reg though just to be sure

A burst disk will empty the tank out through the side of the tank regulator as you mentioned. Your problem is valve related, not tank related.

[Cokrkilr]

Thanks for the response, I changed the reg piston o rings with brand new ones from agd (front and back of brass piece) the on off only had a single o ring in the valve body, where the recess is, I replaced that new from the kit as well and it seemed to be thicker than the other one by just a tiny bit... the on off assembly is sticking down maybe 1/2 a credit card width from where it should be flush, like it was before.

Ill go home tonight and triple check everything... but getting air to it is going to have to wait I went by the paintball place before work and found out they don't even open till 4 during the week... so no air till thursday

[need4reebs]

yep im confused? thought you said you heard a loud pop and then your tank drained...sounded like it could have blown a burst disk? oh well...haha...i would just get a new LPR for your parts box just in case tho

[Cokrkilr]

I did hear a pop but it was from the valve... or maybe it was just the first part of the instant rush of 2000psi flowing out of the two pinholes on the valve that sounded like a pop? I dont know? But I do know it did pucker up the ol fart box for a second... completely unexpected since it WAS holding air with no leaks.

Anyway, I disassembled the valve again, triple checked my orings, oiled stuff up again... just need air now. Everything looks great and clean so I dont really understand why there is any problems???

[athomas]

The regulator piston orings won't cause your problem. The oring that will cause your problem is the small one that sits in front of the brass cup inside the valve.

[Cokrkilr]

So, no I'm a little confused on that last post.

There is an oring on the back side of the brass piece which is pops on the back. Then there is the smaller on inside the reg back... those are the only two orings for that assembly correct?

[athomas]

So, no I'm a little confused on that last post.

There is an oring on the back side of the brass piece which is pops on the back. Then there is the smaller on inside the reg back... those are the only two orings for that assembly correct?

Yes. The regulator seat oring is the front one that sits on the brass piece, not the back one that sits in the regulator body indentation. Sorry for the confusion.

[Cokrkilr]

Its all good... I was just like, I swear in exploded diagrams I have it exactly like them... then I thought, well that would explain a leak... haha

Well I'm gonna go get air today. Hopefully its all good. I've only got today and tomorrow to figure it out before I just throw my classic back in to go ballin

[Cokrkilr]

Ok, I got air.

Initial air up, leaked out the back a little, backed out velocity screw and it stopped, took it outside and put a few balls through it. It seemed like it was a little slow (maybe like 240-250 fps?) but if I turned the velocity up 1/4 turn it would slowly start leaking out the back just a tiny bit. So anyway I just decide to put an ellbows worth of balls through it at a time.

First shot rolls out, second and third shot shoots normal... pause, put in three more. First shot, rolls out, second and third shoot normal. This happens 5 times

I take it inside and swap out the red main spring with a gold to see if that helps with the chuff issue and velocity issue. Go back outside, shoots the first shot this time.... then my damn LPR hose got snagged on my finger and popped off, draining my tank below 800 once again... back to square one.

Here is what I know.
I believe the LVL 10 is spot on, when its aired up if I put some tension on the valve to move it i can hear it leak a little, but seals up when sitting there... so i dont want to mess with that. with the red spring it was chuffing off just a ball in the chamber for my first shot. with the gold it seemed ok for the couple shots i could take. I also put my pinky in the chamber with the red spring and felt like nothing whatsoever... didnt get to test the gold spring for pinching, but it SHOULD be a harder hit right?

Also, was I correct in swapping the main spring for my chuff issue?

Im going to try and just go to the paintball field with my gun and parts box now that the gf is home. Any more help with the chuffing/ first shot roll outs is appreciated. Ill just check my phone for any tips (if anyone reads it while im there :))

also, I was NOT trying to shoot the string fast. it was like 1 bps, just making sure everything was fine and not leaking after shots

[athomas]

If it leaks out the back when the velocity is turned up but not when it is turned down, then your regulator piston is a low pressure version and needs to be upgraded to a high pressure version in order to use the level 10 bolt.


Switch from the gold spring to the red one will not make your chuff issues go away. A first shot that rolls out but subsequent shots that are ok is a symptom of bolt stick for a level 10 carrier that is too tight. Changing the spring just changed the parameters. You probably had more residual oil on the oring when you moved the bolt around when adding the red spring which is shy it worked first shot. It will show the same symptoms and will actually be more prone to first shot drop off than the gold one once the oring dries out. You need to tune the level 10 once you have air. Since you have a leak when you move the valve and it goes away when sitting indicates that you have too many shims in your powertube. Take them all out. You don't need them.

[Cokrkilr]

I switched from red to gold on the main spring.

Wasnt the RT Pro released with LVL 10 stock? Thats just odd to me the piston would not be set up to run the pressures for LVL 10... I thought I had read that in tuning the LVL 10 if you have issues with velocity then the spring tension (length) was too much and try the stock gold spring, or get the one you can cut to length... is that all wrong?

I will try removing the shims, if I recall when I had the tip off there is two in it, if it doesnt help ill swap the carrier to the 1/2 size up and check again. I ended up not being able to go down to the field but ill go down tomorrow for sure

Thanks for your help, all this is new to me and ive tried reading as much as i could about it...

[Cokrkilr]

Well I went through the lvl 10 stuff and it had a single dot carrier in it already. I bumped it up a size and took the shims out. Guess ill see how it goes tomorrow and report back


Also, the bolt already feels too loose just by hand. It barely had any friction on it at all going from the single dot to the single line carrier. So I guess we'll see if that helps at all?