have you tried testing/tuning you RT pro valve on a mech set up or did you just put it on your pneumag? its easier to tune the valve when you dont have LPR hoses popping off...haha...just kidding...but serious at tha same time?
RT Pro valve
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No I have not tried it without the pneu setup, I got rid of my other frame and don't feel like taking all my setup out of the intelli.
I can tell its close, just a couple fine tuning things... I think ill end up putting the one dot carrier back in, and realistically probably buying a new reg piston. But other than that I think it will work out... plus, I have no idea what its shooting fps wise, I'm guesstimating by shooting a line in the road 60 feet from my balcony... I could be well above 260-270. But by sight it doesn't seem like it??? I just need to get to the field with some all day air, a Chrono, and some ao on the Cellular device :)
Also, I found a new use for Teflon on off o rings :) they can slide over autocker 3 way hose... put it on the hose, put the hose on the barb then slide the o ring onto the barb. I can't pull the hose off without sliding the o ring up :)Last edited by Cokrkilr; 03-08-2013, 01:07 AM.Comment
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okNo I have not tried it without the pneu setup, I got rid of my other frame and don't feel like taking all my setup out of the intelli.
I can tell its close, just a couple fine tuning things... I think ill end up putting the one dot carrier back in, and realistically probably buying a new reg piston. But other than that I think it will work out... plus, I have no idea what its shooting fps wise, I'm guesstimating by shooting a line in the road 60 feet from my balcony... I could be well above 260-270. But by sight it doesn't seem like it??? I just need to get to the field with some all day air, a Chrono, and some ao on the Cellular device :)Comment
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The RT Pro was released before the level 10 existed so it was only ever came with a level 7 bolt. The oringinal regulator piston pressure was high enough for all mags operating a level 7 bolt.
If you can't get the velocity adjusted low enough so that the gun still cycles properly, then you need to change from the red spring to the gold one. First shot drop off is not the same issue. It is a friction problem which is related to the carrier being too tight.
Removing the shims will allow the carrier to move farther up the bolt stem so that the oring won't be at the edge of the bolt stem vent hole causing premature leaking. This will allow you to use the proper carrier size without inducing a false leak indication when testing. Remember to always use the same white carrier oring when changing carriers. It is the inner tension of the oring that you are adjusting with the different size carriers.Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.Comment
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Yup yup, athomas you were correct, the carrier one size up had a small leak when I first aired up. Two shots it would go away. Valve doesn't leak, I got about half way through my testing and.... need, your gonna get a kick out of this..... my lpr's shrader valve gave way, popping off my pneu hoses, went and got a new shrader and still leaked internally.
I got to shoot the gun about 50 rounds, not over a chrono but the problems from before were gone. This is still with the gold spring. The last two things I wanted to check were velocity and if the lvl 10 worked with the gold spring, but I didn't get the chance to since the lpr went....
Need.... how much did you want for that ccm again? LolComment
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Well, in the mail I've got the following: Tickler silver lpr, agd HP piston, ule body, reds clamping feedneck, cp detent, and an emag rail. By Monday I should have an rt pro pneumag and a classic pistol all in working order.... well... I know the classic pistol will work at least, lolComment
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The gold spring usually works really well with the level 10 bolt. It will allow you to use a lower velocity setting than the red spring, but you will give up a tiny bit of sensitivity. This won`t be an issue unless you use really brittle paint.
If you want optimum tuning, then use a spring that allows the gun to shoot at your desired velocity which is about 20 fps above the velocity that the gun starts to cycle. The red spring usually gets you in this range.Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.Comment
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Yeah I had read a pretty good write up about the lvl 10 the other night and saw the part about the velocity and springs. Shooting it indoors made it seem like my velocity was high as is, as opposed to feeling like it was low outdoors.The gold spring usually works really well with the level 10 bolt. It will allow you to use a lower velocity setting than the red spring, but you will give up a tiny bit of sensitivity. This won`t be an issue unless you use really brittle paint.
If you want optimum tuning, then use a spring that allows the gun to shoot at your desired velocity which is about 20 fps above the velocity that the gun starts to cycle. The red spring usually gets you in this range.
I should have my new lpr by Tuesday and hopefully the Tickler lasts a little longer than that psychoballistics pos.
One other thing I did notice, was I was getting some rt with the pneu trigger? I thought that eliminated it? Maybe it was just from the lpr being on its last leg...Comment
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Oh snap! Got the ule body and emag rail today. Was pewter, now nice and polished :). Also drilled the rail for a grip and did set screws front and back to hold it in place! Coming together, and only one part away from birthing another mag! lol... too bad my little bit of extra funds from the tax return just ran out
New LPR, Redz feedneck, CP detent and a few other odds and ends should be in by tuesday! Then Im done for sure!
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hmmmm....ur LPR went out on ya? i still have the CCM LPR but i would recommend buying or making your own LPR Reg tester to check the LPR for spikes or creeping? they dont cost much to build your own and are nice to have around when you find that smoking deal on a used LPR to make sure it even works?
as mentioned in numerous threads about LPR's, particularly the LPR's not made by Palmers or AKA, they may take the pressure of what ever tank your using fine one day...then BAM...ur LPR fails, your out of air, and now wish you would have snagged a back up LPR or a Palmers or AKA LPR to begin with?
hopefully this new Tickler will work fine for til ya pick up a new micro rock or pebble from palmers or a nice AKA LPR, and maybe a LPR reg tester...time will tell...haha...good luck dood!!!Comment
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So I just decided wilst working on my mag this morning (got my feedneck/detent/new on off asa)....
That it has no soul anymore... lol. The only original piece from my build is the front frame screw.
Hopefully with my 90% of another mag parts pile I have, ill get that warm fuzzy feeling back. This RT-EPNUE mag is just a cold hearted *+#%&. Everything that can go wrong does, right? :)Comment
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Well ladies, got both my lprs today :) I got the Tickler and the dust black WGP bullet style that came on the Black Magic... needless to say, the bullet ended up on the mag and the Tickler on the cocker. Both work like a pro now :)
Thanks for everyone's help, maybe next time ill build in stages to save the headache? Probably not though.
Thanks again!!!!
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but ill go down tomorrow for sure
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