OK, I'm at a dead end
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I may have missplaced my red spring... I could be wrong. Are you sure its red and not clear or invisible? Lol -
sometimes I'm an idiot...
i thought the cut spring was only in the old kits
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I thought the red spring was the medium spring?
Gold/black = shortest, the "God" spring because it works
Red = medium, best for drop-in use with L10 bolts
Custom-trimmed Silver = long spring, needs to be custom trimmed for maximum softness of the L10 boltLeave a comment:
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what spring are you using. if i remember correctly you are supposed to use the red spring with the inserts.Leave a comment:
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first thing I checked
when I took the valve out... the bolt was still forward.
The other thing you might want to look at is the alignment of the valve with the body. Check for rub marks inside the breach area or where the bolt goes through the body washer. Is that washer flush or flat so the bolt spring can't bind or twist on the bolt inside the body?
its goodLast edited by BTAutoMag; 04-12-2013, 07:23 AM.Leave a comment:
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The detents are easy to check. All you need to do is look at the breach area where they screw into the body. If any of the screw edge is felt inside the body, then the detents are in too far. Only the ball detent should be protruding into the breach.
As mentioned, the efficiency mod could be your problem. A regular level 10 bolt setup requires about 500 psi or more in the chamber to work at the desired velocity. If you use a shorter barrel, that pressure would be higher. When you reduce the chamber volume, you increase the pressure requirement. I don't know the pressure numbers on these, but I'm betting your chamber pressure is probably up around 650 psi or higher. That would require about 850psi or higher coming into the valve. You are showing 800psi on the gauge, but it could be even lower at 700 or 750psi given the error on these things. The lower the differences between the input and chamber, the less likely you are going to get a good seal at the valve orings. If these orings do not seal, then the bolt sticks forward. Rapid firing makes it worst, because the lower pressure differential reduces the flow rate and further accentuates the problem.
The other thing you might want to look at is the alignment of the valve with the body. Check for rub marks inside the breach area or where the bolt goes through the body washer. Is that washer flush or flat so the bolt spring can't bind or twist on the bolt inside the body?Leave a comment:
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My rt with a 12 year old wire v nubbin worked fine with my agitator. When I put my new halo 2 on it I had a bad double feeding issue due to the loader forcing paint past the nubbin. New style plastic nubbin and all issues were gone. That was with the halo in factory settings. With that loader on its fastest feed rate I would deff throw an old agitator loader or something on there to take that force feed out of the equation. And then it could just be a bad batch of paint and your hunting for a problem that isn't even gun related.Leave a comment:
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I would also recommend hand-feeding it or putting a shake and bake on it. I had the same problem when I was putting brittle paint through a prophecy that was turned up all the way. After I turned the speed down, it stopped breaking paint.Leave a comment:
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Were you able to check the velocity with the longer barrel? I guess another test would be to turn the velocity down to something relatively low and see how the breaks go. That might help narrow it down between popping balls on air pressure or some other form of abuse.Leave a comment:
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If all else fails try changing the frame , I chop paint like a mofo when using a two finger trigger . I guess i just fat finger it too much causing short stroke chopping, hopefully you don't have this affliction too.Leave a comment:
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i also tried it with my 14 assasin barrel. the shortie is a freak barrel if that makes a difference to youLeave a comment:
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