On top of the efficiency mod, the short barrel brings your ball pressure up also (for the same velocity). Do you have your foamy in place? It helps space the ball off the face of the bolt. Just between the efficiency mod and the short barrel, you are pushing the limits. Throw some weak paint in there and you have trouble.
My son pops one or two weak balls per day with a pump mag and an old minimag shorty barrel and no foamy. He shoots so fast it's hard to tell if he's tripping over the ball drop or blowing them up, but the problem seems to have doubled since he went to the short barrel. The efficiency mod (like flyingpootang's washers) was good with CO2 (and 300 fps), but we could crank the regulator up to leaking before hitting 280 fps with air. Since he needed quick and reliable refills for pump tournaments, we pulled out the washers and went back to full time air.
I know a longer barrel will get me 30 fps on some of my markers, and a heavily devolumized chamber is worth about 30 fps also. Either one is significant, together is probably too much.
OK, I'm at a dead end
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I also noticed after watching the video, that you mentioned the X-valve has an efficiency insert. A side effect of the higher efficiency is that the pressure is higher on the ball - it's harder on paint. If you're using very brittle paint, and it has cooled down to 45*, and you're using a forcefeed loader coupled with an efficiency insert-mod X-valve, that might just be your soupy combination.
EDIT: BigE beat me to it while I was watching and reading. lolLeave a comment:
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Sorry I missed this one.. just watched the vid... those "efficiency mod" really arent a good idea on anything other than a 12gram powered pump.. and even then they are questionable. AGD made the dump chamber the size it is for a reason. By reducing it, you need to increase the pressure in it to move the bolt and fire the ball because you have decreased volume. A.I.R. valves were like that a while back and AGD figured out that it was causing a lot of ball breaks. They then increased the dump chamber size.
First thing I would try other than new paint and making sure your bolt spring is good would be to remove that efficiency mod....Leave a comment:
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Valken Graffiti is amazing paint, but breaks real easily. Then again, I've never had any issues using that in my Mags. As for cold weather, that shouldn't affect the performances at all. I've played all winter long with my mags with no ill effect.
Also, like Nobody said, have you tried eliminating the other parts of the gun, i.e. changing the body, frame, or valve to see if its one specific part that's giving you trouble?Leave a comment:
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Are you using crappy paint? Is it possible the paint is very small and pushing past the detent causing double feeding issues?Leave a comment:
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its a stock angel detent. I had to go buy an oring to space it right. that bolt stck cause of broken paintLeave a comment:
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Pull the detent out and dry fire. Do you still get the bolt sticking forward? There are two o-rings that come with the detents. One is thinner than the other. It doesnt take much to cause issues.Leave a comment:
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OPBN- Detent is PROBABLY not the issue I have checked and rechecked clearance on it.
captian pinky- Medium spring, about 1/2 -5/8" past face of bolt
sQuidvision- was outside for about 5 min, temp was 45*
Cokrkilr- I'll try that today
Nobody- ball frag got stuck inbetween bolt and body, nothing detent related, have checked clearance.
I'll try hand feeding, its breaking in breach
trigger rod is set about 1/16th behind trigger gassed up. running a ULT with 2 shims
yes and yes
I dont have another body unless i go to twistlock.Leave a comment:
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posting before watching the vid
1) ditch the hopper and hand feed. eliminate the possibility of the hopper breaking the paint BEFORE getting into the breech.
2) where is the paint breaking? if its in the breech, then its the gun. if its in the barrel, then its in the barrel.
3) if the bolt is sticking forward, then its being hung up on something. if not the ball detent, then look at the feedneck. it might be sticking in and catching the bolt. examine it to see if there are marks on the bolt.
after watching the vid
4) check the length of the trigger rod.
5) check the length of the on/off rod.
6) make sure that the powertube is screwed down all the way, so that the bolt is coming to rest, where it should be and not being pushed forward a little bit.
7) are the screws holding the gun together, in snuggly?
8) have you tried eliminating the other parts of the gun, i.e. changing the body, frame, or valve to see if its one specific part that's giving you trouble?
it doesn't hurt to step back and examine the gun with the eye. mags are simple in design and implementation. there is a certain symbiosis of the parts. granted, you've modded just about everything, so it could be anything. one part, one oring could throw everything out of balance, or it could be a mass of everything not being in sync with each other. it might be a feng shui thing, but if you understand how the parts work together, it helps figuring out how the gun works and why its doing what it is.
side note- unless you have an expensive gauge where its calibrated to a certain +/-, gauges will more than likely be wrong. it could be off 1%, which at 800psi, could be actually 790psi or 810psi. if its worse, like 10%, that 800 gauge could be as high as 900psi, or as low as 700psi. i never trust gauges and only use them as a general way to get into the ballpark and see what the gun likes.Leave a comment:
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What spring is in the lvl 10?
Only reason I ask is the stock gold spring can still produce chops. It hits quite a bit harder than the red, I've stuck my pinky in both and it was very significant between the two springs.Last edited by Cokrkilr; 04-11-2013, 12:13 AM.Leave a comment:
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cant help but notice all the snow... is it perhaps cold? Cold marker? Cold paint?
EDIT: Just read about your bold being stuck FORWARD... probably not cold related lol.Leave a comment:
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