One for the Pros to venture forth on. XMT Body not getting into the rhythm.

[nak81783]

So my hypothesis is that the slot in the XMT body, through which the front of the sear travels, is slightly off center, such that when the marker is fully assembled, the front of the sear may be deflected off to one side. When that happens, the back of the sear goes the other way off center. For the RT on/off to work, the back of the sear must travel up into the RT on/off bottom slot. It can't do that if it's pushed off to the side. However, the pin can still push on a portion of the back of the sear to give you a firm trigger. Also, since you can't push the back of the sear all the way up, the front of the sear can't come all the way down to release the bolt.

The Reactor on/off works because it's flat bottomed. Sear back doesn't have to fit up into a slot to complete a trigger pull.

Root cause corrective action would be to widen the slot on the XMT body, but I figure it'd be easier and cheaper to manipulate that galled up on/off bottom...just in case I'm wrong.

Blackened rear sear pictures are hard to decipher, but in the one from the RT on/off, I think I see wear where the pin hit and on the edge where I think it's catching the on/off bottom slot edge.

[XtraKargo]

So rather than widen, could I sand the top flat with bottom of the slot?

[nak81783]

I would NOT do that. The bottom radius is required to hold the overall height at which the on/off top orings are set. Not sure what would happen. Might lead to reactivity/bounce issues.

[nak81783]

Actually, you'd be making it shorter, while the pin stays the same length. Probably would cause a long, sticky pull or not be able to recharge, rather than bounce, but I'm getting tired; what do I know? I'd stick with widening the slot.

[XtraKargo]

Actually, you'd be making it shorter, while the pin stays the same length. Probably would cause a long, sticky pull or not be able to recharge, rather than bounce, but I'm getting tired; what do I know? I'd stick with widening the slot.

Well I am calling it for the night as well. I can scribe the lines with a pick with the bad on off and match the XMT rear sear hole.

[nak81783]

Do you mean the RT on/off slot is already wide enough to accept anything that fits through the XMT sear hole? Or do you mean that's how wide you're going to make it?

Yeah, I need to hit the hay as well. I'm working on the house over the weekend, so I probably won't be very responsive.

Good luck.

[nak81783]

Oh, and that pic of the 3 on/off's, I wasn't quite clear enough in the orientation. Rotate the 2 RT's 90 degrees, and take the pic from the side, such that I can see through the slots to compare their height from the table to the overall height of the Reactor.

...if that makes sense.

[XtraKargo]

Do you mean the RT on/off slot is already wide enough to accept anything that fits through the XMT sear hole? Or do you mean that's how wide you're going to make it?

Yeah, I need to hit the hay as well. I'm working on the house over the weekend, so I probably won't be very responsive. no worries, have fun around the house. I enjoy doing that almost as much as paintball.

Good luck.

I was thinking this after first impression, but i follow what your saying now. Just a little wider each pass.

Oh, and that pic of the 3 on/off's, I wasn't quite clear enough in the orientation. Rotate the 2 RT's 90 degrees, and take the pic from the side, such that I can see through the slots to compare their height from the table to the overall height of the Reactor.

...if that makes sense.

here you are.

[OPBN]

I ran into a situation on a body where the hole in the body where the back of the sear pushed through was a little off and the sear could to fit through and push the on/off pin properly. Does the back of the sear fit through the hole properly? Assemble the marker except the valve and pull the trigger. Does the protrusion on the back of the sear fit through the hole?

[nak81783]

I ran into a situation on a body where the hole in the body where the back of the sear pushed through was a little off and the sear could to fit through and push the on/off pin properly. Does the back of the sear fit through the hole properly? Assemble the marker except the valve and pull the trigger. Does the protrusion on the back of the sear fit through the hole?

I was struggling with this too, but since the larger Reactor pin cycles, I shifted gears to what's different about other aspects of the geometry.

[OPBN]

I was struggling with this too, but since the larger Reactor pin cycles, I shifted gears to what's different about other aspects of the geometry.

Does the pin protrude through the hole farther? Also if there is actually a milling issue with the body pretty sure XMT will stand behind his work and make it right.

[XtraKargo]

It comes thru the body the same amount as the Minimag body. I used a pick to scribe a line. If there is a second one then they are touching each other, side by side.

Does the pin protrude through the hole farther? Also if there is actually a milling issue with the body pretty sure XMT will stand behind his work and make it right.

[Ando]

X valve with LVL 7 froze. Not a single shot.

Classic with the lvl10. Cycled fine.

Bolts left alone from here on out.

Classic with lvl10 and rt on off. Back to the same as the video. Cycles and pauses before reseting.

X valve with level7 and reactor on off (I don't think I have a stock On/Off to the classic, and this dropped right in) leaked down the barrel but cycled as fine. Almost as fast as I could pull a mech trigger.

You've basically narrowed it down to your RT on/off here. Do you have a spare or a rebuild kit for the orings?

Edit:

I would also retune the lvl10 with a new carrier oring on GP. You might have a bad oring causing you to use a smaller carrier cause everything you're describing with the bolt hanging up on the return is caused by a tight carrier. Remember all the basics...no shims installed, use the gold spring, stock on/off and a mech frame when tuning. Install the largest carrier that doesn't leak. If you're still having reset issues, then add shims to compensate. (I haven't read every post but you've already tried shims right)?

Originally yes, but to isolate if there was any issues with pneu setup we moved the XMT and the XValve to Minimag Rail and a standard sear.

Are you using a mech frame or are you still using the pneumatic frame when doing all this troubleshooting?

Good old acronym. K.I.S.S. = Keep It Simple Stupid

Take every variable out of the equation and then run your tests.

And just for good measure I tried the longer spring.

Hmm...are you using the stock silver spring as is?

If so....don't. They weren't mention to be used as is, will cause you more issues and def make you shoot hot.

[XtraKargo]

You've basically narrowed it down to your RT on/off here. Do you have a spare or a rebuild kit for the orings?

Edit:

I would also retune the lvl10 with a new carrier oring on GP. You might have a bad oring causing you to use a smaller carrier cause everything you're describing with the bolt hanging up on the return is caused by a tight carrier. Remember all the basics...no shims installed, use the gold spring, stock on/off and a mech frame when tuning. Install the largest carrier that doesn't leak. If you're still having reset issues, then add shims to compensate. (I haven't read every post but you've already tried shims right)? changed the O ring,and I read one post in the LVL10 guide when tuning not to mess with the shims, they could create more issues.

Here is the link i used.

http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?43538-**-Official-Level-10-Problems-Thread-**&p=2828797#post2828797

Now I don't have a set of digital calipers, but my old ones show it as just shy 1/16th, and they both are the same, the calipers slides right off of one and onto the other. With the carrier I stepped up to 1.5 and it leaked so I went back to a 1. (granted this is a fresh o-ring to, in my troubleshooting on my own, I figured why not, to see what happens without shims and where I end up on carriers. really was good refresher on the LVL10 also.) I would venture to say this one is a .750 since it just touches the 3/4 mark. I will have to pull my Retro Valve out of storage to see if it is different or not.

With the Velocity turned all the way up it still sticks, and it appears to rub on the upper portion of the body where the outer rim of the bolt pushes against the top (that is the only part that looks scored, but mildly so, a darker grey color). The breech still looks clean. I wondered about the LVL7 myself, if it would make a difference.

Are you using a mech frame or are you still using the pneumatic frame when doing all this troubleshooting? the pneumag is my primary and was where it all began for testing purposes we moved back to a Minimag I had setup for my wife, which now I realize could have been tuned a little better in the sear and corrected that Not that she would notice, but hey, why not.

Good old acronym. K.I.S.S. = Keep It Simple Stupid

Take every variable out of the equation and then run your tests.


Hmm...are you using the stock silver spring as is?the silver one was used briefly at higher velocities to try and force the bolt down the body I was using one in my primary for a while, to try and be softer on paint (but I think in further study of the LVL 10 and how it should be set up that isn't necessary.)

If so....don't. They weren't mention to be used as is, will cause you more issues and def make you shoot hot.

Thanks Ando!

[XtraKargo]

Now with a Video!!

Or black marker the edges of the slot and some of the bottom around the slot on the bottom of the RT on/off. Repeat the trigger pull exercise. See if you see witness marks on the on/off bottom.

I Couldn't see anything,
before


after with one shot fired, and pressure, and kept pulling the trigger to see if it makes a mark...



and more to prove my sanity, a small video demo...



I am walking away from it a bit today. Thanks again.