Just got this: what do I have?

[Chikahiro]

Got 'em on, not as bad as I thought they'd be.

Next step? Gotta order a 45 degree elbow, two new air nozzle things, and braided hose. I'm debating if I want to try seeing of the CO2 expansion mount will work for my HPA remote line or not, as that'll determine hose length. I could try mounting an ASA on the back, or the bottom of the grip.

All my hoppers are gravity fed, will that he a problem? When it fires, is it smooth like my eNMEy? Or is it like my Spyder MR-100 and a bit more substantial?

I think I might make a noob tube for modified stock, but wonder if I need a rotor hopper to help me feeding more constant.

Also, how do I tell what generation /level this is? Does it matter?

[athomas]

It won't kick like a lot of other guns because it isn't a blowback design. There will be some slight movement due to the mass of the moving bolt, but its negligible. The only real kick will be from the force of propelling the ball. All guns have this, though.

The generation is a level 7 based on the powerfed body and the fact that those Smart Parts gun setups were sold during the level 7 era.

You might want to update to a level 10 bolt. It will prevent chops, especially if you use a gravity hopper.

[Chikahiro]

How do I know if my Automag is eligable? AGD has a list of ones that it'll work with, but I'm not sure what I've got exactly.

What are the other benefits to it?

[Chikahiro]

And since there's not much kick, would a Proto Primo work nicely?

[athomas]

The Proto Primo should work fine. Most paintball gun produce enough natural kick to move any lightly stacked balls, especially ones that don't have a whole hopper of balls pushing down on them.

The level 10 works on all automag valves.

[Chikahiro]

Cool!

Another silly question - I've got the old-style barrel that you put in and turn. Are there any adapters out there that'll let me use normal barrels? Or am I stuck with it until I do some major upgrades or buy another barrel? More curious than anything since i haven't had a chance to shoot the automag yet. I'm assuming/hoping the barrel is fine.

Just ordered some more macro-line. My friend commented the line seemed awfully short, and didn't seem cut well, so maybe that's where the leak was? Hrm... now I just realized I should've ordered some o-rings for the things, too.

[athomas]

Yes, there are adapters that will allow you to use a cocker barrel in your twist-lock body.

Doc's automag barrel adapter.

[Chikahiro]

Update!

So, got my order in from ANS - a 45degree elbow/feedneck which works perfectly, and two new o-rings along with two new macrolines. Cut the lines, still leaked. Changed the o-rings, and that part of the marker is done. Still leaking, but its back where the bolt is, so I'll be using the kit I got from TunaMart to replace all the o-rings in there. Probably too busy tomorrow to do it, and will be too busy on Mother's Day to work on the marker or go playing paintball. Ah well!

I subscribe to the theory that you start with the simplest solutions first, and work your way up in cost/complexity. Works well for computers, at any rate :)

In theory, I'll be able to use the Automag next time I go and play, which is awesome! I still want to get the bits to make it into a modified stock marker as well, but that'll have to wait until next payday. The barrel adapter will likewise need to wait. But, overall? I'm pretty happy! Debating if I want to get another remote-line plug, as I think I only want to use it with my heavier markers (the Automag and my Spyder MR-100).

Thanks for the help, everyone!

[athomas]

Still leaking, but its back where the bolt is, so I'll be using the kit I got from TunaMart to replace all the o-rings in there.

Change the powertube oring first.

If it still leaks, you will need a shorter powertube spacer. Chances are that yours has a powertube spring instead of a spacer. If you don't have any spacers, you can shorten the spring by sanding one end to reduce the overall length. Do this by placing a piece of sandpaper on a flat surface and rub the flat spring end back and forth over it.

[Chikahiro]

Change the powertube oring first.

If it still leaks, you will need a shorter powertube spacer. Chances are that yours has a powertube spring instead of a spacer. If you don't have any spacers, you can shorten the spring by sanding one end to reduce the overall length. Do this by placing a piece of sandpaper on a flat surface and rub the flat spring end back and forth over it.

Interesting! No idea what a spacer is, though >_<

The manual I found wasn't helpful, sadly. I did get out a lot of old o-rings, though, and some of them were way yucky.

http://1drv.ms/1DZxC14

I'm still missing stuff. Still leaking, but one step at a time.

[Chikahiro]

Well, my spring pack assembly doesn't look like anything in the manual.

http://1drv.ms/1J1Baaf

Right now air is coming straight out the back, so its clear I messed something up inadvertantly. I also noticed the disc on the spring pack assembly is a little warped which doesn't help matters any.

[Nobody]

The spring pack is where you adjust the velocity. Something totally different. The powertube, is where the bolt sits and transfers the air crom the valve to the ball. Under that brass tip, older guns had a small spring to seat the bolt. Newer guns have a spacer. A L10 kit replaceces the spacer with a newer one as well as the bolt, working in conjunction to be able to bounce off paint. That spacer/spring is what 5he above were referring to.

[athomas]

Yeah, those orings are pretty bad. It definately wasn't going to hold air.

The automag manual is here: Automag manual

The automag exploded view is here: Automag valve exploded view

The spacer is inside the powertube. When you unscrew the brass tip from the front of the valve, you will remove it first followed by the powertube oring.

[OPBN]

Have you watched the YouTube videos where Tom Kaye explains in detail (7 videos worth) how to tear down and tech Automags? If not, you really need to watch them.

[athomas]

Given the state of your orings, make sure you change every one of them to start.

Your velocity adjustment parts, which are your piston and spring pack, are probably fine. They generally don't go bad, especially if they haven't had tons of use. The small end of the spring pack goes inside the adjuster cap, opposite from the orientation shown in your picture.

A leak out the back is usually due to a leaking regulator seat oring. Check that it is seated in place and that there isn't a piece of dirt on it.