1100 PSI into X Valve- no rapidfire?

[Nobody]

Well, the trigger pushing back is a good indicator. As long as you have the "credit card" space between the sear rod and trigger when aired up, then the trigger is properly set up. I don't think the sear really matters much as long as it is properly spaced.

The biggest problem you have is the insistence on the single trigger frame and trying to get it to bounce like many other people. The biggest advantage of the double trigger is leverage and a linger pull. W8th double triggers, you can almost hold the trigger in the best spot where it it will fire, but reset itself. That is the reactive trigger and that skill does take practice. It is not generally something that happens when you pick up a new gun. Most of the people you see do what you are attempting to do, all have double triggers of some sort.

[BigEvil]

That aftermarket trigger could be the problem too... Also you are using a classic rail with a classic sear... I have found they never RT very well... make sure the sear axle pin is clean and smooth.

[wjesse]

I did install a double trigger (pics are earlier in this thread). I have 1 mm of space behind it and the sear rod. I have polished the sear and the sear axle to shine. I have emptied a tank of air trying to finesse the trigger but never get more than a single shot. It needs more bounce.

Is it possible to just replace the sear and the rail without a new body?

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[Laku]

Is it possible to just replace the sear and the rail without a new body?

Definitely. Classic RT is the only exception where you can only use parts that were made for it (and the other way round).

[Mueller]

I'm still learning AGD myself but would definitely agree it's not an air issue, a ninja SHP1100 should make it sing.

My stock on/off xvalve needed 1.5 tanks of shots + lots of oil to break in before it would RT well, now it's controllable but a hot trigger using a SHP1100 reg. Sweet spot for me is bottom edge of trigger, where the bounce pressure can exert most leverage pushing back. I tried to "find the spot" like you.... but once it started going it was easy & obvious

I have a ULT trigger xvalve too, pretty broken in, that is fairly reactive despite my reading the effect diminishes on the ULT. Still it's less than the stock...

ALso have an emag (very short pin) valve that at 1100psi immediately goes scarface / early metallica drum solo / jackhammer breaking up an 8" concrete block outside on an early sunday morning after a long night of Goldschlager and pizza puffs. Too much RT, can't afford to shoot paint that fast.

[rawbutter]

This might seem like a dumb question, but do you know for sure that you're putting 1100 psi into the valve? I know I once shimmed a tank regulator to put out more psi, and I didn't get my bounce....but then when re-reading the instructions I realized that I had adjusted the regulator wrong. (I took a shim out instead of putting one in....or something like that.) Once I got the shims right, I was also able to get reliable bounce with 850 psi output and a slightly shorter pin.

If you're certain you have the right psi coming out of the tank, then tell us more about your x-valve. Was it new? Used? Have the o-rings been changed recently? I know you said you put 800 shots into it, but my x-valve required a few thousand shots before it started RTing properly. So maybe you just need more break-in time.

If that fails, you could consider sending the valve off to someone else to inspect/trouble-shoot. Maybe someone with more experience will notice something with the valve in hand that you've missed.

And if all else fails, I'll second the notion of skipping the RT altogether. I know it's fun, but it's also overkill most of the time, and some fields don't even allow it. A well-tuned marker with a ULT on/off is more than enough in 95% of situations you'll ever encounter.

[wjesse]

Thanks for the reply. These are great questions.

I have a PSI gauge inline that reads 1100 with the SHP and only 800 with my other tank. I'm pretty confident it is accurate.

I bought the X valve used off ebay. I emailed the seller about no rapid fire and he said it worked great for him.

I will be taking it to the field this weekend to break it in a bit more. I'm hoping someone there can look at it too.

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[wjesse]

I installed my new sear, tuned the level 10 bolt, swapped the gold spring for the red one, cranked up the velocity, lubed the hell out of it and... rapid fire ACHIEVED!!!

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[rawbutter]

I installed my new sear, tuned the level 10 bolt, swapped the gold spring for the red one, cranked up the velocity, lubed the hell out of it and... rapid fire ACHIEVED!!!

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So.... What finally did the trick? Or did you do everything all at once?

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[wjesse]

I think it just needed to be broken in more. It started to bounce enough for a quick double shot and then slowly became bouncy enough for strings of shots.

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[Paintballnut777]

....You know I have the same issue.... I bought my RT ULE mag from AGD about 2 years ago and thought it would rt right out of the box, but could never get it too. I also know I don't even have a case of paint in it because of tinkering around with it from getting it anywhere from not shooting to hold the trigger down and have full auto with no bounce. Write now I have it shooting good for semi. I'm going to use it for a while when I play to see if I can break in the orings. I also have a ULT in it which agitates me trying to sweet spot the tuning. One shim too many or too little and it is either full auto with no bounce or it wont shoot.

[waycrazy]

I talked to ya at the 24 hr game . Nice looking mag with the old school touch . Did you ever get it to work right?

[Sandman]

Some simple notes:
A good bolt and sear match should ultimately polish the bolt edge to a mirror finish.
Standard mag rail and sears are much sloppier than the pinned sears and rails from the RT styles. Potential issues can arise.
Mixing old classic rails, sears and bodies with newer mag parts is not always successful.
Bounce or rapid firing by itself in technical standards of the gun, is considered a malfunction.
Creating mechanical machine-gun monsters out of Mags is an absolute requirement!