RT PRO with level 10 chopping paint

[Mondoatx]

So... I went and played today with my Rize (RT Pro is still with Tuna) and I wanted to update everyone on the type of paint I was using (as promised).

It is Empire Marballizer...

It shoots out of my Rize with no problem.

Just wanted to let you guys know.

Mondoatx.

[ghost flanker]

That's odd. Empire's Marballizer has never seemed even slightly brittle at all in my experience.

...I just did the drop test (6 feet, flat concrete, low humidity, 80 degrees) on some Marballizer paint that's been sitting under my bed in a sealed bag for about a year. Each ball was still intact after 10 drops. Maybe they harden with age instead of becoming more brittle. :/

If you got any of that paint left, do the drop test and report back.

[Sandman]

Sandman,

Really? If that's the case, then using a strap wrench and vice without a heat gun is an even worse idea. At least the Revy-twist method allows a good amount of give/slippage between the hopper and stock feedneck to occur, thereby limiting the actual force being exerted on the threads. It honestly seems to be just enough force to break the threads free without much of a risk of destroying anything. The Revy's neck is just the right size for this. If, say, red or black loctite was used, then the Revy would just spin in the feedneck without anything happening, though I suppose anything is possible when it comes to things breaking. By the way, as a disclaimer, my Revy-twist method is not meant for anything other than a stock nonadjustable AGD ULE feedneck. I would not try this with a clamping feedneck.

Also, the stock feedneck on my Tac-One body seemed to only be locked in by friction; I did not see any telltale white dust in the threads the first time I removed it. If any, what color loctite does AGD use on their aluminum bodies??? Or are you just inferring the possibility that previous owners of ULE bodies could have applied loctite?

Ghost,

Ruined feedneck threads from improper installation or removal is not just an Automag issue by any means. Happens with all guns. On bottles too. The stuck valves will destroy the bottle threads...makes the bottle useless.

Most bodies we sell, get sold without a feedneck being installed. That means most customers are installing their own. We primarily use green loctite 290. Green is medium strength and is very thin. Does not leave much behind when it is broken. Green will wick too. It will find it's way around the threads. Red 271 is too strong and causes most of the issues in paintball with aluminum threads. You can use red but only on stainless, brass or steel threads and fittings. I like to use red on steel braided lines and quick disconnects if I'm not planning on taking them apart for a long time. Blue 242 is ok for locking screws and possibly feednecks, but in my experience it breaks too easily unless you pour it on and using too much presents it's own problems.

Cya!

[Mondoatx]

Ok... so I finally did the drop test on some of the paint.

Out of 5 balls... 3 of them didn't break after being dropped 5 times... 1 broke on the second drop... and 1 broke on the 4th drop.

I dropped them from shoulder height onto the garage floor (cement).

Let me know your thoughts.

Mondoatx

[Mondoatx]

oh...

And each one that broke did so on the 2nd or third impact with the floor... never the first impact. The ones that didn't break bounced 2-3 times.