Hyperframe/Level 10

[NPP]

Finally got it sorted!

The answer was to connect the 10.8V battery from the warp to the frame so there is no battery in the frame. The extra voltage going to the frame seems to have cured it. Fired in excess of 1500 shots on one charge so far, not sure how many shots it will fire before the frame stops hitting the sear hard enough.

[paintballrulzs]

O NO!!! I just ordered my level 10. I could never do what you did to solve your problem!!!

[PigSweat]

NPP, where did you get the 10.8 V battery? and how did you install it? Plz, I need to know as I have a tournament this weekend.

Thanks, Ryan

[paintballrulzs]

up!

[NPP]

The 10.8V battery comes from John Sosta at Powerpulse.

To install it I first did the twin warp mod which can be found on the forum, installed an on/off switch to ensure I can stop any battery drain from the warp spinning when not required. The second snap connector from the twin mod just has a longer wire and connected to the snap connector in the frame. To ensure they match you just have to connect the wires on the mod in reverse or the polarities won't match. This also means you can disconnect the warp from the frame.

Played a tournment last weekend and had no problems but I think having a spare 10.8 is a good idea as I don't know how many shots you can fire powering the warp and frame before the frame won't fire.

[PigSweat]

Duracell ultras work for me man

[NPP]

Tried them, no good!

[PigSweat]

i know, i've been following this thread. But thus far have had no problems with my Hyperframe/level 10

[nicad]

ran my lvl10 micro-hyper mag all last weekend, and worked great! about the only problems i ever ran into was trying to fire with the safety on, which would create a slight leak out the barrel as well as the bolt hanging just slightly forward and wold not re-cock.
pushing the bolt back with a swab and letting the sear click in would fix it.

otherwise, no probelms at all.. was a joy to shoot again!

[steveg]

got lv10 working with my hyperframe today no problems other
than failing to notice that the safety was on for the first
10 min :o

[NPP]

Updates on L10/Hyperframe

Just to say after 3 tournaments including Campaign everything running perfectly. No breaks, extreme speed, you just couldn't get any better.

Go to a walk on event, half way through the day start kisfiring again. I thought the battery may be low, changed it out, still no change. I have had to resort to changing the spring down in size but have had a few breaks due to less bounce on the ball.

Would the carrier O-rings wearing or sear wearing cause this problem?

[pbzmag]

I also had a problem with LX10/Classic valve/HyperFrame como. I tried everything from changing the service mode to 9, fresh batteries, to moving the solinoid. I did get it to work a few times consistantly, but only to have problems the next day. I gave up and bought a Intelli. When I buy a Retro, I will make a backup marker with the classic vavle.

[Doobie]

Would the carrier O-rings wearing or sear wearing cause this problem?

Maybe your carrier is too small or you just have to oil the bolt piston and o-ring before a days play. Mine was misfiring and oiling the bolt piston and o-ring fixed my problem. I run a Hyperframe/ retro valve and level 10 also.

Hope that helps

[Buckwheat]

NPP have you inspected the L10 bolt for chipping from the sear? I installed the Hyperframe and then noticed bolt chip. I contacted CF and they sent me a .750 on-off pin from a RT. This seemed to help. I have now installed the L10 and after 200 rounds I see my new bolt is starting to chip also. The RTPro on-off pin is .765, I think this might be my next step to try to get rid of premature bolt wear. I never had any problems getting my Hyper to fire, the only problem I had was bolt wear and it seems to use a LOT more air. I am going to replace the sear, get an RTPro pin and see how that works.

[NPP]

I have the RT On/Off pin, took it to John Sosta at Airgun Europe and he said that the CF on/off pins can make the bolt ride the sear. With the RT pin I have shot over 30,000 paint in 6 months and there is no noticeable wear on the bolt or pin which I think is pretty good

Obviuosly this is a fair amount of paint and I have inspected the O-rings and can't see any noticeable wear, but maybe replacing the carrier O-rings will help.

I think by the feedback so far the main problem is the classic valve/Hyper combination. Those with Classics seem to have more problems than those with RT valves.

The moral of the story is

RT/Hyper/L10 90% chance
Classic/Hyper/L10 make sure you have a lot of time and patience!