Originally posted by athomas
** Official Level 10 Problems Thread **
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The on-off pin is supposed to stop the front chamber from filling with air as long as the trigger is held. If air is filling the chamber to allow the bolt to recycle, then there is only two places it can enter. The first is past the on-off top orings. The second is past the regulator valve pin oring. If air blows past either of these orings, the bolt could continually cycle, even with the trigger held.Originally posted by rexydogIt never stops firing after pulling the trigger until released, and ocassionaly it vents air. It will either vent air or just become full auto, untill i reseat the oring back into the regulator.
Check that both on-off top orings are in place. Check that the regulator valve pin oring is in place.Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.
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There is only one top o-ring on the on-off for the ULE as far as I am aware, and it is there. The Regulator valve pin o-ring is the one i'm talking about moving and that AGD told me to move from the "regulator seat Holder" to the groove on the regulator itself, which does fix it till i degas the marker and regas it.Originally posted by athomasThe on-off pin is supposed to stop the front chamber from filling with air as long as the trigger is held. If air is filling the chamber to allow the bolt to recycle, then there is only two places it can enter. The first is past the on-off top orings. The second is past the regulator valve pin oring. If air blows past either of these orings, the bolt could continually cycle, even with the trigger held.
Check that both on-off top orings are in place. Check that the regulator valve pin oring is in place.
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You mentioned it was happening with the RT on-off as well, which is why I went that route. Since the problem is the same with both on-off assemblies, I suspect they are not the problem.Originally posted by rexydogThere is only one top o-ring on the on-off for the ULE as far as I am aware, and it is there. The Regulator valve pin o-ring is the one i'm talking about moving and that AGD told me to move from the "regulator seat Holder" to the groove on the regulator itself, which does fix it till i degas the marker and regas it.
It definately appears to be a regulator valve pin oring problem. Why is it not being held in place. Are both orings at that end of the assembly in place? Is the reg seat holder installed in the correct orientation. Make sure there is no dirt or debris in any of the orings, including the front two orings and spacer on the front of the valve pin assembly.Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.
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I'm not really sure how to remove the Valve Pin Assemby, do i just use a pair of pliers to grab and pull? I don't wanna damage it. But i can see that the Regulator Seat O-Ring is in place and doesn't look dirty, the regulator seat holder appears to be right orintation(using a tac-one x-valve picture i found on the agd site), and the o-ring behind the seat appears to not be dirty. Let me know how to remove that assembly and i'll check the other two. ThanksOriginally posted by athomasYou mentioned it was happening with the RT on-off as well, which is why I went that route. Since the problem is the same with both on-off assemblies, I suspect they are not the problem.
It definately appears to be a regulator valve pin oring problem. Why is it not being held in place. Are both orings at that end of the assembly in place? Is the reg seat holder installed in the correct orientation. Make sure there is no dirt or debris in any of the orings, including the front two orings and spacer on the front of the valve pin assembly.
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To remove the valve pin assy on any RT valve, you can hook it by the small hole that is in the side of the tube on the regulator side. Just pull it right out.
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Thanks I got it out. I don't see any dirt but i did notice that the regulator seat holder isn't exactly tight on the pin assebly it kinda wobles around, and if i take the o-ring that i am always moving(#34 on the picture from the manual) and place it in the holder it keeps the holder from wobling. Is that normal and what is the best method to clean these o-rings? Just rinse and reoil?Originally posted by questionfulTo remove the valve pin assy on any RT valve, you can hook it by the small hole that is in the side of the tube on the regulator side. Just pull it right out.
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the holder does exactly what you see it doing. With the o-ring in place nothing moves around and the o-rings are held at the proper spacing.Originally posted by rexydogThanks I got it out. I don't see any dirt but i did notice that the regulator seat holder isn't exactly tight on the pin assebly it kinda wobles around, and if i take the o-ring that i am always moving(#34 on the picture from the manual) and place it in the holder it keeps the holder from wobling. Is that normal and what is the best method to clean these o-rings? Just rinse and reoil?
Replace the back o-ring on the regulator valve pin assembly if you haven't already done it. There must be a defect in it. The mag regulator is fairly simple and if all o-rings are in place, it should function fine. If there is no dirt allowing air to pass, I can only guess that the o-ring is malfunctioning due to defect or incorrect sizing.Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.
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Well I replaced the o-ring agian, but it appears that my cat has managed to carry off my thumb screw. So once i find that I'll let ya know how it works. Thanks for the help.Originally posted by athomasthe holder does exactly what you see it doing. With the o-ring in place nothing moves around and the o-rings are held at the proper spacing.
Replace the back o-ring on the regulator valve pin assembly if you haven't already done it. There must be a defect in it. The mag regulator is fairly simple and if all o-rings are in place, it should function fine. If there is no dirt allowing air to pass, I can only guess that the o-ring is malfunctioning due to defect or incorrect sizing.
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Wont shoot
i have a retro mag and i just install the lvl 10 bolt im using medium spring, 2 shims, and the 2 lined carrier so send biggest. but whne i gas it up, theres no leaking which is good but when i pull the trigger nothing happens?
so not sure how to fix it
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ok i got it too shoot but when i try to shoot fast it seems that it stops and lets air out between shots?and really slows down my shooting any advice?Originally posted by canadian_nibblesi have a retro mag and i just install the lvl 10 bolt im using medium spring, 2 shims, and the 2 lined carrier so send biggest. but whne i gas it up, theres no leaking which is good but when i pull the trigger nothing happens?
so not sure how to fix it
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What velocity are you shooting at? Make sure the velocity is high enough to properly cycle the gun. The level 10 bolt needs a higher setting than the level 7 bolt just to shoot the same velocity as you were shooting before the upgrade.Originally posted by canadian_nibblesok i got it too shoot but when i try to shoot fast it seems that it stops and lets air out between shots?and really slows down my shooting any advice?
Remove the shims when testing.Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.
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I never used to have any problems with my level 10 kit since I first installed it. Now, when I pull the trigger, the bolt stops halfway without making it all the way forward and then vents air continuously until I push it back with my finger.
What could be causing this problem?
UPDATE: have an ULE body with a Custom Products Angel detent. I had the detent turned in too far, and the bolt was getting stuck on the metal part of the detent. Actually, it permanently damaged the detent by denting it.Last edited by sdawg; 07-06-2008, 07:55 PM.
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Something is binding if it doesn't fire but the bolt makes it half way. If it fires but doesn't reset, it could be that your bolt spring is worn out. If it "chuffs" but doesn't reset, it could be a carrier that is too tight or the bolt is binding on something in the breach such as a broken detent or nubbin. The bolt should eventually reset on its own when the force on the bolt by the air pressure in the chamber goes below the force of the bolt spring. If this doesn't happen and air continues to vent out the front, it could be a sign that there is a leak in the on-off area. Try holding the trigger in following an attempted shot. The venting air should eventually subside.Originally posted by sdawgI never used to have any problems with my level 10 kit since I first installed it. Now, when I pull the trigger, the bolt stops halfway without making it all the way forward and then vents air continuously until I push it back with my finger.
What could be causing this problem?
I would check your carrier size and the condition of the powertube oring in the carrier.
Turn up the velocity setting.Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.
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My issue..
Im rougly 2 full turns left of all the way right.. I have the Gold spring installed,
NO shims and the smallest carrier yet it is still leaking. any ideas whats going on, My tac one was supposed to be factory tuned yet it wouldent fire, so Im now tinkering with it and have come to this problem.
heres my setup.
Dangerous power on/off flip switch ( is it supposed to blow out air when you turn it off?? )
marcoline and 2 90 degree fittings.
everything else is bone stock
smallest carrier and no shims. my Internals are perfectly fine, nothing is broken or squished.
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