** Official Level 10 Problems Thread **

[CenterFire]

Ok thanks... anyone with any help, feel free to reply to the quote in the official problems thread or here if you're lazy

[CenterFire]

As clarification, when I fully assemble the valve and etc, other than the bolt and spring, everything seems normal. When I try and slide the bolt onto the assembly, it doesnt slide down the power tube. It stops a little less than an inch from where the bumper normally is. And after testing, we came to the conclusion that the wider part of the power piston is too wide to fit through the power tube tip...

[Nemesis]

oh just thought i let you know that i am his friend he was refering to. you can e-mail me at [email protected]

[personman]

Are you using SBII or the regular one?
You have to use SBII.

[Peanutt]

OK i have taken my mag down to the aother mag guys at the field today and the bolt fits on there lvl ten. they said that my powertube tip was machined wrong.

No it does not go on the old powertube tip when the origanl powertube is assembled, but yes the new powertub tip goes on the original bolt.

Oh yeah i changed my fourm name hope ya dont mind

AGD: call us for a replacement bolt.

[Minimag2002]

okay my leaked was fixed when i figured the added pressure in my macro was to much and caused a leak in the connector, (fixed with teflon tape). anyway now i have the 1.5 carrior, and when i try to shoot the marker it shoots then the bolt just starts leaking and won't stop untill i push it back with my battle swab. i have tried diffrent shims and nothing helps im using the original spring and don't have a chrono but im about 2-3 turns out.

P.S.sorry but the tech part of paintball is not my strong side

AGD: It sounds like your on/off pin is too short. If you fire and hold the trigger does it leak? If not then did you use the backing washer all the way in the bottom?

EDIT: Thank You So Much For The Help Tom YOu Were Right As Usual It Was My On/off pin it got snapped after pulling the valve out. Thanks Again

[MagNumPI]

LVL10 Powertube tip had a hairline crack

Hey guys, My powertube tip had a crack in it and it let go.

When i was finger tightening it into the PT the tip snaped off.

Has anyone else incountered this problem or did i just get a bad one?


Any help would be great.

AGD: Call the factory for a replacement.

[Thrilliam]

Bolt Stick

I am having the same trouble. I can not even get through a game with out having to push my bolt back to get it running. I am using 1.5 carrier, the medium spring, and 3 shims. 4 shims and the gun leaks down the barrel. I have tried the longest spring with the same outcome of bolt stick. I can not trust the gun in a tournament as of right now. Need Help....
thanks

AGD: Try the shortest spring, if that doesnt work you might have to call us for an RA.

[Peanutt]

I know this sounds stupid but should i call the front office or tech support

-edit- also which department should i go to from automated telephone menu. I am new at this

AGD: call tech support. they have their own phone # you can look it up on airgun.com I dont have it.

[Thrilliam]

Thank you AGD

I think I found yout my problem. It was not in the level 10 it was in the hyperframe that I was using... I am running a normal 45 frame and all my troubles went away. Thank you for the fast response AGD...

[dyerules]

Ever since i put the level 10 on my velocity has gone to hell. Its wierd, w/ the regular bolt it's like -5/+5 or so. I did the break in procedure, am using longest spring w/ 1.5 carrier and 1 shim. I have a han held chrono that i used. After seeing it fluctuate i thought it was the chrono. So i chronoed at the field on saturady, 265,260,285,270,255. It was kinda grose. I chronoed real low so not to asses any penalties. I was wondering if there's anthing i can do. I keep everything lubed well. Also if i put in a 1.0 carrier, that will slow down the bolt more, right??

AGD: If you use too small a carrier it will add too much friction to the system. This leads to variable velocity. Go with the largest carrier that doesnt leak.



dyerules: Thanks for the quick answer!!! But if i was to put in a larger carrier, wouldn't that increase the bolt force???

[AzrealDarkmoonZ]

I put in the LVL 10 worked fine, then yesterday a slight hiss would occur, so light I was not sure where it was coming from. I noticed when I put the trigger p against the pin it would go away and if I let the trigger hang lose it would not. Tried a few different carriers same problem.

Az

AGD: try tightening the field strip screw with a wrench. Your valve is slightly out of alignment.

[Mud]

I can seem to have shoot down rapid firing ion my emag. I tried tinkering with it and chronoing it like an RT in hybrid mode. (velocity e-mode 294 Hybrid 294, 207, 255 , 194)

I installed the level 10 using the #1.5 carrier (#2 carrier leaks) ,the medium and short sping.

please help

AGD: THis is not a level 10 problem , look at your tank and hoses.

[spyder3634]

ok, i just got lvl 10 today for my emag. i put it all together and try to go out and shoot it. it wont shoot at all. when i pull the trigger in any mode, it doesnt shoot. what am i doing wrong?

edit: it was the velocity, everything working great now!!!

[snowman]

Lvl 10 and Velocity issues

Installed on my RT Pro, Zgrip, stock barrel and PMI Pure energy 3000, 47cu tank. For testing purposes I was using a coiled remote. Ended up with the small spring, two shims and 1-ring carrier.

- On this tank it significantly less efficient, I primarily play indoor leagues with speed at 260. Around 300 left in the tank, it just quits, I now have to fill after every game, where I could ususally last two games w/o filling.

- Been using 1 year cruddy paint to test w/o any breaks, have shot about 1000 rounds of RP Premium w/o any breaks yet.

- Problems that I have encountered are wierd. During my league play I have to get my tank filled every game. So then I would walk right to the chrono and get the speed going 215, 220's. I set it like that for a reason. I would then play the next game 10-15minutes after that. Then during the game, I'd put about 200 rounds through it, and when I would Chrono off it would be high 250's, low 260's. Comming on the field I would be at 220's, 230's. This would happen every game. I don't totally understand the physics behind cooling tanks and velocity, so I know there's a connection to be made, but I don't know where. I am not certain what to do. Any suggestions?

AGD: L10's don't really like to be shot at low velocity. Best bet is to get a really short barrel and reduce your velocity that way and still maintain pressure.