Originally posted by athomas
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I am trying to chrono at 280 fps. Is that to low for the medium spring? -
Each persons setup will be different. Generally, most people use the middle spring.Originally posted by 11 Bravo
If you want to know the ideal setup for operation at 280fps, turn the velocity down until the gun won't shoot at all. Then turn the velocity adjuster up until it fires. Check the velocity. If the velocity is 250 - 270, then operating the gun at 280 is ideal. If the velocity is below 250 then you may want to consider using a longer spring. If the velocity is above 270, then you may want to use the next shorter spring. These numbers are for reference only. You may want to run your gun closer to the "edge" to get the bolt impact as soft as possible (ie; gun starts to work at 275 fps when you are shooting at 280fps). This will cause the odd chuff if the valve isn't fully charged when the next shot is fired under rapid fire conditions or if any debris interfers with the bolt operation.Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.Comment
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e grip and level ten
I installed the level ten on my classic 68 with e grip. The marker would not fire after repeated tuning. Finally figured out that the solenoid/piston in the e grip was not able to activate the switch. The marker/level ten works great with the stock grip and trigger assy on it. Any possible solutions to make the egrip work?Comment
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Did the egrip come with an on-off assembly? The standard on-off from the classic valve requires a lot of force to activate, especially with the level 10. You need a special on-off assembly. A retro valve on-off assembly will cut the required force in half without any special tuning and should work in place of the stock one quite nicely.Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.Comment
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Thanks for the Info. I did have a different switch in the marker when I first installed the Lvl 10. It has a smaller diameter on/off pin and an on/off top that lets more air through than the original. Unfortunately the marker would not fire with this switch installed either.I recently re-oringed everything and did not have one of the orings for the other switch, so I put the original back in. I will try it again if I can get an oring for it. The oring that I need seals the on/off pin to the on/off bottom. Any idea where one ia available? ThanksOriginally posted by athomasLast edited by asower; 10-27-2005, 11:19 AM.Comment
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I check the AGD online store. The retro on/off that is pictured does not look like the on/off that I have. The pin looks the same but the top and bottom are different. I dont think that the orings pictured will work either. Do you think it would be my best bet to buy the whole assembly?Originally posted by asowerComment
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ok, Having a slight issue with mine.
It seems a little . . . . ah, rough. It hasn't chopped one, but it pinched it. Its been so long since I had installed (when they first came out) that I don't remember how to fix it or make it more sensitive.
Little help?
EDIT - one other thing. When I unscrew the air, pulling the trigger as I twist, it sounds like air is escaping down the bolt/barrel.Last edited by slateman; 10-30-2005, 02:47 PM.BrockSampson "I see dead people..."
and once I see them, I make sweet, sweet love...Comment
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Low fps?????
hello everyone,
i'm having a problem with my automag. i installed the lvl 10 this year and i have been using it with no problems. the only problem that i have is that i can get it no where near 300fps, i could only get it to 260-270 before it start leaking through the back. any suggestions where i can begin??Comment
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Hey Bro
Which bolt spring are you using ? Use either the middle or the longest one.And you should get the 280 fps you need.Comment
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Pinching is what it does. It should reset though. If it doesn't then you may need to add a shim or two. If the spring is old and/or worn, it may need to be replaced. The springs do need to be replaced over time.Originally posted by slateman
If you need to make the bolt force softer on paint, then use a stiffer/longer spring.
The valves will hold air after you remove the air source. That is normal.Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.Comment
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You need a new higher pressure regulator piston assembly.Originally posted by MAGnificentsExcept for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.Comment
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Tip broke off
I just openend my RT-pro and found myself looking at the valve without the brass tip on the bolt side of it. I found it in the level 10 bolt. I think it broke off during a game, I had some drop off the last game so I was looking for the problem but this ain't good and easy to fix. The tip broke at the place where the O-ring grove is. How can I get it out and more importent where (I live in the Netherlands) and how do I get a new one? Has anybody else had this problem?
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Just got the broken off tip out off the valve (it was so loose in the valve that I could just turn it out with the pliers tip from my Leatherman)Last edited by Redmer; 11-01-2005, 10:31 AM.Comment
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Help....how do i get the o ring carrier out of my powertube to change the carrier size....it's stuck...any ideas that wont hurt anything?Last edited by neppo1345; 11-01-2005, 01:35 PM.Comment
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Use the field strip screw. Stick it down the powertube and when you remove it with a bit of sideways pressure, the carrier and oring will come with it.Originally posted by neppo1345Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.Comment
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thats a start
athomas, i just removed the whole lvl 10, so everything is back to factory ,went to the chrono and was able to get to 300 with no problems. would you still suggest in getting a new piston assembly either way, i really want to get this lvl 10 working.Originally posted by athomasComment
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