** Official Level 10 Problems Thread **

[AGNH]

Can A Level 10 go into a 68 Classic Mag

Can Someone tell me if a Level 10 can go into a 68 Classic Mag.

The Automag is a special field rental gun on valve.

Please Reply

[athomas]

The level 10 will go into the classic valve but not the classic rental valve with the restricted powertube.

[wanna-b-ballin']

i just switched out the shortest bolt spring(the shiney goldish looking one) for a red one. i think its the medium spring. i can stick my finger in the chamber with no pain.

it chuffs when i shoot. the first shot will be a chuff, then all following shots will be great. when it chuffs the ball only goes 3 feet.
then if i wait a few seconds, the same thing happens.
if i take the barrel off, it works flawlessley.

i tried tightening the frame screws, and it has helped, but not completely. i think the bolt is getting hung up on the barrel.

also, somewhat frequently a ball will break towards the end of the barrel now. it never did this with the old spring. do i need to polish the bolt or something?

[athomas]

It does sound like you are getting some bolt stick due to misalignment of the barrel. What is the inside diameter of the barrel? Also, check the stability of the valve in the body of the mag. If there is movement, then it is possible that you field strip screw or your body screw is too long.

What is your setup? New /old? Xvalve/Rt Pro? rail/body type? etc?

[wanna-b-ballin']

its just some twistlock dye x-cel barrel. so i think that would be a .689. the valve is stable, and its never done this before until i put this stiffer spring in. i dont ahve a kit or anything for the lvl 10. could i use my extra ULT shims for anything?

set-up:
minimag body, x-valve, ULT, intelliframe, and an RTP rail(i have no idea if its old or new. but it works just fine with my x-valve)

[athomas]

You gave me the info I needed. Try wrapping a turn or two of electrical tape around the barrel under the orings. This will tighten the barrel and keep it from wobbling and it will help keep it aligned as well. Dye barrels are known to have issues with the level 10 setups. They have a bit of tolerance which allows them to fit just about any setup easily, but the level 10 precision doesn't allow it. The smaller bolt spring allowed any rubbing on the barrel to have a minimal effect on the bolt movement. When you moved to the stiffer spring, the effect was exagerated and became a problem.

Another thing to check would be the fit of the minimag body onto the rt pro rail. Sometimes it seems tight but there is a slight gap. That is due to the pim (threaded nut) on the bottom of the minimag body bottoming out against the bottom of the hole in the rail. The oringinal classic rails had a deeper hole than the RT pro rails and the pims on the classic and minimag bodies were longer than on the rt pro bodies. Just something to check.

[wanna-b-ballin']

You gave me the info I needed. Try wrapping a turn or two of electrical tape around the barrel under the orings. This will tighten the barrel and keep it from wobbling and it will help keep it aligned as well. Dye barrels are known to have issues with the level 10 setups. They have a bit of tolerance which allows them to fit just about any setup easily, but the level 10 precision doesn't allow it. The smaller bolt spring allowed any rubbing on the barrel to have a minimal effect on the bolt movement. When you moved to the stiffer spring, the effect was exagerated and became a problem.

Another thing to check would be the fit of the minimag body onto the rt pro rail. Sometimes it seems tight but there is a slight gap. That is due to the pim (threaded nut) on the bottom of the minimag body bottoming out against the bottom of the hole in the rail. The oringinal classic rails had a deeper hole than the RT pro rails and the pims on the classic and minimag bodies were longer than on the rt pro bodies. Just something to check.

actually, the minimag body wouldn't fit the rail because of that threaded nut. i dremmeled it to be round instead of square, and it fits nice and good with the rail.

i did notice in the past about the barrel. when its in, it does wiggle a tiny bit. but the weird thing is the barrel wont go in without alot of force if there is no oil on the o-rings or in the body to help it slide.

will i have to cut the electrical tape to be really really skinny so it fits in the groove?

[athomas]

actually, the minimag body wouldn't fit the rail because of that threaded nut. i dremmeled it to be round instead of square, and it fits nice and good with the rail.

Make sure it isn't bottoming out even just barely.

i did notice in the past about the barrel. when its in, it does wiggle a tiny bit. but the weird thing is the barrel wont go in without alot of force if there is no oil on the o-rings or in the body to help it slide.

will i have to cut the electrical tape to be really really skinny so it fits in the groove?

As long as the electrical tape is in the groove, you should be fine. The overlap won't be as high as the orings anyway. Use as much as needed. If it only requires a single wrap, then only use a single wrap. If it requires 3 wraps, use 3. Also, check the twist lock assembly. If it is bent or stiff, it could make the barrel hard to insert.

[wanna-b-ballin']

it works great now. i put tape in both grooves, and i couldn't even get my barrel in, so i took the tape out of the rear groove, and now it works exelent.
thanks.

[Scavanger]

Lvl10 rt problems

I've got an older RT that really ripped with the ans bolt but chopped paint so I installed a new lvl10 and during tuning it I had to turn up pressures to the leaking point at the reg to get it to work at all and no longer will rip and shoots low speed. I've installed lvl10s on my clasics without any problems they work fine this doesn't work at all. what to do here?

[athomas]

I've got an older RT that really ripped with the ans bolt but chopped paint so I installed a new lvl10 and during tuning it I had to turn up pressures to the leaking point at the reg to get it to work at all and no longer will rip and shoots low speed. I've installed lvl10s on my clasics without any problems they work fine this doesn't work at all. what to do here?

Well, I think you answered your own question. The operating pressure exceeds the over pressure setting of the regulator piston assembly. You will need a new one for your rt to work properly with a level 10 bolt installed. It is a common problem with older rt or retro valves when installing level 10's.

[warthog2t0]

ok for a long time mine just wouldn't work. so i just took it apart and cleaned it out a bit. i didn't take it all apart, just stuff i could. and now i takes air again but it just sort of fires out the back in a stream. but other then that everything works fine. any ideas?

[AJcool]

BOLT BROKEN. my gun wasnt working, i literally just opened the box. it chopped a bunch so i stripped and cleaned and put back together, i was careful to put it together just as i took it aprat. it wouldnt recock. through trial and error i found out the thumbscrew was on too tight! But in the process i broke the rubber part off the lvlX bolt! Where can i fix it!

[athomas]

BOLT BROKEN. my gun wasnt working, i literally just opened the box. it chopped a bunch so i stripped and cleaned and put back together, i was careful to put it together just as i took it aprat. it wouldnt recock. through trial and error i found out the thumbscrew was on too tight! But in the process i broke the rubber part off the lvlX bolt! Where can i fix it!

The foamy is glued on. Use a good epoxy. Make sure the bolt face is clean.

[athomas]

ok for a long time mine just wouldn't work. so i just took it apart and cleaned it out a bit. i didn't take it all apart, just stuff i could. and now i takes air again but it just sort of fires out the back in a stream. but other then that everything works fine. any ideas?

Try replacing the regulator seat oring.