** Official Level 10 Problems Thread **

[ben-afficial]

mine has the same problem but leaks at first then once i play it usually stops what the heck is wrong

[athomas]

Correct me if I am wrong please....By adding shims, I am increasing the distance the bolt travels at low speed, thus decreasing the likelihood of breaking a ball, if the spring isn't changed.

No. In order for the level 10 to work, the bolt must be able to stop when it hits an object, vent the air, and then reset itself to its starting position. Adding shims decreases the distance the bolt has to travel to expose the vent hole so it can vent air in the event of a misfire. Too many shims, and the vent hole becomes exposed while the bolt is in the ready position and leaks all the time.

[athomas]

I look down the inside of the bolt and the Piston Pin that was in the bolt was missing. ... Then I looked down the power tube and there was that Piston Pin. It came apart from the inside of the bolt. ...From what I was reading in the forums, this happens very,very,very rarely. Any Thoughts .. Please Help !!!!
Thanks Darick M.

This is a rare occurance but it does happen. Contact AGD and they will resolve it. You can probably do it yourself if you want to. The bolt stem is pressfit into the bolt. Glue it in using a metal type loctite compound.

[athomas]

... I would notice that after play, the bolt would leak a little, as if it were not sealed all the way back. Tunaman tuned it after I tried, same result. Should I just lube it more? That's what I think, but I want your opinions first.
-Cold

Lubing is a band-aid patch for leaks. Find the cause. Usually leaking is caused by a carrier that is too loose. Other causes include too many shims, a bad o-ring or a worn sear. If the gun is fairly new, it probably isn't the sear.

[Phantom_Mag]

alright so it leaks a little out the front, and when i pull the trigger back it still doesnt even fire. what do i do..????

[JRingold]

No. In order for the level 10 to work, the bolt must be able to stop when it hits an object, vent the air, and then reset itself to its starting position. Adding shims decreases the distance the bolt has to travel to expose the vent hole so it can vent air in the event of a misfire. Too many shims, and the vent hole becomes exposed while the bolt is in the ready position and leaks all the time.

Thank YOU!

Am I correct in the end result; more shims = less chance of chopping paint?

[athomas]

Am I correct in the end result; more shims = less chance of chopping paint?

No. The bolt spring and chamber pressure are the determining factors whether you increase the chances of chopping paint or not. The shims only determine how far the bolt <b>has to go</b> before it can reset.

[athomas]

alright so it leaks a little out the front, and when i pull the trigger back it still doesnt even fire. what do i do..????

Remove the powertube shims. Use the short bolt spring until you get the setup working without leaks. See if the leak goes away. Check the tension of the carrier fit on the bolt stem. Use the largest carrier that doesn't leak. If the carrier is tight on the bolt stem and still leaks, change the o-ring. Increase the velocity until the gun cycles. Check your velocity to make sure it is below 300 fps.

[MadPSIence]

I had my mag shooting perfect, then after a nasty chop.. when I got everything together again it will no longer fire and it leaks badly out of the barrel.

when I pull the trigger the leak stops.

[athomas]

Clean everthing out. Clean the bolt and valve as well as the body of the gun. It is quite possible that you have a piece of ball devris lodged somewhere.

[Pudmullet]

New RT Custom ULE problem

I am brand new with a Mag and have alot to learn. Please help if you can. This may not be a lvl 10 problem. I have just recieved my new RT ULE, x-valve, lvl 10, RPG Chimera 90* frame, Splinter rail, WGP Torpedo drop w/on-off. I have install all shims in the on/off. It will shoot 5 or 6 times, (dry, no barrel), and quit. If I remove the tank and release the pressure, then reinstall, it will shoot another 5 or 6 and stop again. I hope this is a simple fix. It has been sent back once already to be dialed in and it still isn't right.

UPDATE.....It seems to be fixed!!! A quarter turn on the feild strip bolt was all it took. The aluminum rails have to be tightened down just right.

[Caudillo111]

2nd Shot falls short

Hello....

I just got back my repaired E-Mag from Airgun design. Besides fixing my problem they installed the Level 10 bolt. I was using my E-Mag today and it was working great about about 5 games. Then in the middle of the 6th game every other shot would just roll out of the barrel and fall short. Sometimes I would shoot once then stop and you could hear the air coming out. Not sure what to check first to fix the problem. Thanks for the help.

[ben-afficial]

i figured out my problem...the bolt seating makes it touch the barrel and go a little cruced and leak, so i just push my barrel up and no more leak.....yasee, violence and science do mix

[durtysoufcraka]

i cant read through these posts to find out if anyone has the same problem i do...plz help.

i had the lvlX installed professionally. at the same time my emag was cleaned and whatnot. but it hasnt rapid fired since. the lvlX stops on a pencil. and it'll shoot once or 2x a second but no faster or i hear a chuff as if there's a ball there i guess. i was using 2 shims and the carrier with one marking on it. the next to smallest i guess. smallest spring.

i have used my medium spring with no shims and that had the same problem. i have cranked the velocity up on my small spring and that didnt help. i cant know the exact velocity cuz i dont have a velocity...thingy (i'm frustrated and cant be bothered with vocabulary)

(i had to check my carrier size and...)
NOW my freaking power tube tip won't screw on. WTF how do i even fix my lvlX if i cant screw it on. i'm upset.
-durty

*EDIT* got the freaking tip on. still upset emag wont rapid fire. why own an emag if it shoots slower than my classic did?

[athomas]

durtysoufcraka:

It is possible that something is sticking. It could be the regulator valve piston assembly or possibly the on-off assembly or the bolt stem. The bolt stem is easy to check for tension by moving it back and forth in the powertube. The on-off pin acn be checked by moving it back and forth in the on-off assembly. The regulator piston assembly is harder to check.

What type of emag and valve do you have?

Body type?
valve type?
New, never used level 10?

Caudillo111: It is possible that your level 10 just needs to be broken in. During this time it needs lots of lubrication or you could move to the smaller spring to reduce the differential force on the bolt.

Pudmullet: Your problem is probably not a level 10 issue. Don't put as many shims in your ULT. Too many shims allow the air to start moving through the on-off before the bolt is fully seated. This can cause bolt stick which will prevent the gun from resetting. If you can reset the bolt by pushing the bolt back manually, then this is your problem. If it still won't reset then the problem is with the on-off assembly or the the regulator valve piston assembly.