** Official Level 10 Problems Thread **

[c_bass]

hey i have a quick queston. my lvl 10 has a leak and it is down the barrel. i've tried all the carriers with 2 shims and i have had no luck. although when i hold down the trigger it stops the leak. currently i am using the carrier with two shims and the carrier with 2 grooves. i've read a couple pages in this forum and couldnt find anyone with the same problem . please help!

[athomas]

Remove the shims first. Use the largest carrier that doesn't leak. Once you get the proper carrier, you can add shims back into the powertube. The shims only determine how far the bolt must move forward before the air can vent out the small hole and allow the bolt to reset. Many people don't use any shims at all because the distance is so short anyway.

[c_bass]

yeah i just took all the shims out so now it works. thx

[gotgemini2000]

Intermitent LVL 10

I have a brand new AUTOMAG ULT Custom with an X valve and recently the gun has begun to shoot intermittently. A very small amount of air leaks through the bolt and the gun will generally shoot about 15 shots before it jams and sometimes when i push the front of the bolt the gun will recock but other times the gun will not recock unless I gas it up again. Any suggestions? Should I switch carriers sizes? Also, the gun is very well oiled and the velocity is up very high.

[athomas]

You are experiencing a problem relating to a combination of the ULT and level 10. You possibly need a larger carrier size. Always make sure you are using the largest carrier that doesn't leak. Test this without any shims in the powertube. Once that is setup, adjust the ULT. Too many shims in the ULT can cause the bolt to stick even if the carrier is the proper size. Find the correct amount of ULT shims by trial and error. Put as many in as you need to operate consistently without bolt stick. This type of bolt stick can be checked by pushing the bolt back into place manually. If the gun recocks when you do this, remove a ULT shim. If you get bolt stick that cannot be reset by pushing the bolt back, then the on-off pin is sticking and you need to add a shim or two.

[seanpeek]

I can't seem to get the right combo

Okay, I have been looking for the perfect combo of carrier and shims and spring for about one month now. I can't seem to get it just right. I seem to be alternating between two carriers. One carrier will hold air pressure for about five mins before a small leak begins. I then move to the next carrier down and I get a purge of air in the bolt about every other trigger pull. I have tried to lube this carrier as much as possible and still the problem continues. I have even gone as far as using the three o-rings to find the one that will either be a tiny bit tighter in the looser carrier to stop the leaking or a tiny bit looser in the tighter carrier to stop the mis-fire. I still can't get it to work. I think I need a carrier that is right in between the two. I am using two shims and the middle spring. If I use three shims it leaks. Any help would be great.

[athomas]

Try removing a shim and use the looser of the two carriers.

[j.storm]

alrighty folks, I'm posting for my cousin (who can't seem to get a email verification for his own account) about a problem with his new ule custom.

Problem:
After tuning the lvl 10 with the proper carrier, he chrono's the marker and plays for about half a day or req ball. About 500-600 rounds later, his oring is breaking in and he gets a small leak down the barrel. During the SAME game, the small leak explodes into a gush of air that empties his tank pronto.
Right now, we have tried 5 different orings, all in the smallest carrier (no shims) and the marker still leaks. We had the right spring (which shouldn't effect this). Can anyone get us on the right track with suggestions on this problem?

[robr81]

someone please help

setup:
minimag with an emag valve +lvl10
boo yaah elcd
compressed air
16 in armson riffled barrel

lvl10 is set up with 1.5 carrie 2 shims and med. spring (red one)

problem:
was having air leek down the barrel with the #2 carrier so went to the 1.5. orings have been heavily oiled, now no leeks but gun will still not fire no matter what the velocity or springs. elcd fired great with stock emag on/off... but when lvl 10 was installed nothing. my only though is maybe it could be the on/off but i tried the stock emag one and the one supplied with the boo yaah frame. it sounds like the sear is hitting the on/off just not firing the valve. not sure if the ULT would help me out or not...willing to try any thoughs suggestions.

please feel free to email me or PM me becasue this thread looks like its hard to find your response. ;-)

[seanpeek]

Okay,

Once again I have a problem with my Lvl 10. I am about to just go back to my lvl 7 and just be done with it. I finally got it working great with the help of the peeps at AGD. I played with it for the second time today and after I got home, I broke the valve down to clean it. The top of the power tube tip, just below where the wrench unscrews it from the tube, was broke off. Now I can't get the tip out of the bolt. Even if I got a replacement tip from AGD, I would not even be able to install it. What do I do? Are there any warraties that come with this part. I have owned it for less than two months and have only played with it twice due to all of the other issues I have had trying to get it to work.
Thanks

[athomas]

Okay,

The top of the power tube tip, just below where the wrench unscrews it from the tube, was broke off. Now I can't get the tip out of the bolt. Even if I got a replacement tip from AGD, I would not even be able to install it. What do I do? Are there any warraties that come with this part.

How did it get stuck. The inside diameter of the bolt is larger than the outside diameter of the tip. Anyway, you should be able to stick a rod into the front end of the valve and gently tap it out the back.


robr81: I think you were lucky getting the gun to fire with the stock on-off before. The level 10 uses a higher chamber pressure to achieve velocity. The higher chamber pressure will prevent the electronic frame from properly activating the on-off. The ULT should help your cause.


j.storm: Check the black outer o-ring on the carrier. It may be broken or damaged. Also check for debris in the powertube. Is the carrier installed in the correct orientation front to back? Also check that the rail bushing is in place.

[seanpeek]

How did it get stuck. The inside diameter of the bolt is larger than the outside diameter of the tip. Anyway, you should be able to stick a rod into the front end of the valve and gently tap it out the back.

You would think that getting it out would be easy. I have no idea what is keeping it in there. I slides freely on the bolt until it gets close to the end, then it get lodged on something. I have tried pushing, pulling, tapping and jabbing, but it wount come off. The only way I see myself getting this working again is if AGD will replace it. Is it covered by a warranty?

[robr81]

robr81: I think you were lucky getting the gun to fire with the stock on-off before. The level 10 uses a higher chamber pressure to achieve velocity. The higher chamber pressure will prevent the electronic frame from properly activating the on-off. The ULT should help your cause.

thanks buddy ill give it a try. and will repost as soon as i got it figured out.

[ODARKONE]

gas leaking down barrel all the time!!!!

hi all, i've had my tac-one for a few months now, its been great right up till last weekend.

i noticed a small leak of gas venting down the barrel, and if i hold my trigger back..the marker hissed and puffed non stop!!

If i put a small amount of pressure on the trigger, it would not be as bad, but it was still there.So, i took out my valve(at the field mind you)and found that the bolt was not "being gripped" anymore, normally it was kinda held in place by ...suction it seemed..and that gripping feeling is no more!?!

Now, last week i had to clean between games(didnt break paint, i got hit from the front), and i torn my marker down, cleaned it , but, i didnt have time to oil up all the internals(including the bolt!!!!!)and then put a couple of cases through it.

I'm guessing this is a commen problem for the Level 10 set up(worn out o-rings) and am just facing it for the first time here, could someone who knows whats going on pls let me know why and whats happening to my sweeet Tac-one?and what i need to change to fix the leak.

Ps. I did oil all the parts now...and the leak is still bad(losing about 2000 psi in 10 mins!!!!)

anyone who can guide me he...pls chime in.
Thanks all for your time
Tom you still rule bud
Louis

[athomas]

I'm guessing this is a commen problem for the Level 10 set up(worn out o-rings) and am just facing it for the first time here, could someone who knows whats going on pls let me know why and whats happening to my sweeet Tac-one?and what i need to change to fix the leak.

The carrier o-ring is getting broken in. Go to the next tighter carrier. Also, the persistent leaking may be caused by too many shims.


seanpeek: Your valve is covered by warrantee. AGD will drill a detent into the valve when you send it back to indicate a warrantee star has been used. It would be a shame to use a warrantee star for something that simple though. If you have to, buy just the level 10 bolt and powertube tip.

Check the alignment of your bolt stem in the back of the bolt. Is the bolt stem loose or off center? Think of this as one of those logical puzzles. The object is to get the brass ring off the bolt stem. It went on, so it should come off. The brass part may have gotten bent when the bolt returned to the valve the first time the part broke. You may be able to get a pair of needlenose pliers inside the bolt from the back and starighten it.