Originally posted by The_Don_83
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Depending on the barrel, the plastic nubbins may not protrude through far enough. This could be exaggerated if you are using a small bore paint in a large bore barrel. Check that your nubbins are fitting properly. You can feel them inside the barrel when the barrel is out of the gun. You can also test fit the balls to see if they are indeed rolling past.Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts. -
won't reset.
I got an RT pro for christmas. The guy I bought it from said it had been sittin up for a while. I aired it up when I got it pullled the trigger a couple of times and it shot. Pulled it off the air and tore it down to check all the internals. Cleanrd it and put it back together. It holds air but it does not seem like the bolt is resetting. It has absolutely nothing on the trigger. When i take it off safe the trigger goes all the way to the frame and it will not fire...
Any suggestions??????????????????/Comment
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turn up your velocity, and if you have a ult, mess with that, and then turn up the velocity.Comment
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Definately turn up the velocity as a first step. If it still doesn't reset then you may need to take it apart again and check that you put the parts and orings back in in the proper places and in the correct orientation.Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.Comment
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Help, air coming out the back
I've had an automag rt pro for a couple of years now but never took it apart. I am trying to install the level 10. I followed the directions from this site and now air automatically and periodically comes out the back hole where you can adjust the velocity. Can someone please help me?
MikeComment
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How old is your RT Pro? It sounds like your regulator piston assembly is weak. The level 10 bolt system requires that the air in the chamber be at a higher pressure. The higher pressure can be higher than the safety bleed pressure of older regulator piston assemblies. By installing one of the newer high pressure assemblies, your problem will be fixed.Originally posted by peadison
Before you do that, take the assembly out and clean it and the back of the valve to remove any dirt that may be causing problems.Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.Comment
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Originally posted by athomas
I bought it from a friend almost 3 years ago and he had it for like 1-2 before that. I didnt have any problems the 50+ times I've played with it since I bought it before trying to install the level 10. I followed the directions given from this site. I've taken it apart and tried again. Both times it shoots out air periodically and rapidly from the back hole where you adjust the velocity. At first nothing was happening, even when I pulled the trigger. I raised the velocity after reading some posts here and then the air coming out the back started to happen.Comment
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Originally posted by peadison
UPDATE
After reading more posts from this site, I have the same but a new issue now. I am no longer leaking air down the back through the velocity adjuster and its no longer periodic. I am leakiong constantly down the barrel and its pretty strong. I can fire the gun several times even though it is leaking down the barrel. I'm not a big gun techie so can someone please help? Greatly appreciated, MikeComment
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peadison: You have a pre-level 10 valve with the low pressure regulator piston assembly. You will need a newer high pressure regulator piston assembly to work properly with the level 10 bolt. You can reduce the problem until a new assembly arrives by using a shorter bolt spring.
The constant leaking out the front, even though you can still shoot the gun, means you probably have too many shims in the powertube. Remove all shims when setting the level 10 bolt system up. If it still leaks, then use the next smaller carrier with the same powertube carrier oring.Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.Comment
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OK, I don't know how I didn't see this tread but here is my problem --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I've been fighting with my LX for a while now and I've decided that I need help. I've got the carier with two lines on the bottom and one on the top in it, three shims, and what appears to be the longest spring. And it shoots fine, an occasional leak that goes away when you fire it that I figure is just the O-ring needing to be broken it or something, but anyway my problem is it still has way more than enough force to chop a ball, if I turn the velocity down to 220 or so it works great but at 280 it's still too hard. Does anyone have any ideas how I could fix this?Comment
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Try removing a shim or two to stop the periodic leak. If you are using the longest spring, I am surprised you are able to get the gun to cycle at a velocity setting of 220fps. Most of the time you can't even get the red middle spring to shoot that low.Originally posted by bryceeden
Is your longest spring a grey one? Try the red spring (which is the middle one), just in case your longest spring is weak.Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.Comment
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Originally posted by athomas
I only have the 1 shim the directions say to put in. I havent added the others yet since I havent determined what type of leak it is according to the instructions. I am already using the shortest spring given by the level 10 kit. So now what do I do? I think I'm going to bring it to a shop to be fixed.Comment
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Buy a new regulator piston assembly first. That will fix your leak out the back. Then you will be able to use the longer spring for softer operation.Originally posted by peadison
As for the leak out the front, remove all the shims, even the one you have left. If it still leaks, use the next smaller carrier with the same powertube oring.Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.Comment
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Bolt stick and gas leak Level 10
I installed a level 10 kit on my hyperframed micromag and its worked good for a while(I dont play that much though) and a month ago I was playing and had to use CO2 until I got my nitro tank Hydro tested. And while I was playing the bolt started sticking and gas would escape down the barrel really quick and I would have to push the bolt back to get the gas to stop leaking I fiddled a bunch with the velocity and changed my on/off orings hoping I could get it work and it would'nt. Thinkin it was the CO2 I finally got my nitro tank back and tried it but my gun would still do the same thing, Ok so now Im thinkin that my level 10 kit has reached its breakin point so I used the troubleshooting guide on my level 10 CD. My original Conf was a 2.5 carrier with 2 shims. I tried a 2 carrier with same oring, then with new oring, then took out shims and then added shims, while adjusting through the range of velocity each time I tried something different. It did'nt leak as bad and the bolt would now recock when I changed this stuff but it still would'nt shoot just little gas puffs when I pulled the trigger. Im tired of spending money on 60 mile drives to my paintball field and nitro fills. I dont know if this is a problem with my level 10 kit or maybey the CO2 messed up my gun up but I had used CO2 on my gun before and its never messed up like this and my on/off pin looks fine. Please help me if you can.Comment
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What valve do you have on that thing?Comment
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