** Official Level 10 Problems Thread **

[athomas]

Sorry, you're right. I had been using the wrong nomenclature. I have a L7 valve that was stock on my gun, and just bought a used X Valve. It appears that the old on/off assembly will not work, because the slot for it in the X Valve is threaded, and slightly narrower.

The on-off assembly sizes are the same for classic or xvalve/retro valves. Only the pins and assembly internals are different. Except for the way they work, they are interchangeable size-wise.

[-B-]

I have a Tac One that has been leaking out of the barrel basically since I got it shortly after Christmas. At first it would stop once I adjusted the carrier down a size but once I fired a handfull of shots it started leaking again leading me to belive it was just breaking in. Last time I played with it it started to leak with the smallest carrier on it. Today I fianlly had the time to swap out all the O-Rings and try different carrier and shim combinations and I havent had any luck, I cant even get it to stop for those handful of shots I used to get out of it.

I really would like to get this thing working before Castle Conquest next weekend if anyone has any ideas before I finally break down and send it to AGD for fixin.

-B-

[roncova]

The on-off assembly sizes are the same for classic or xvalve/retro valves. Only the pins and assembly internals are different. Except for the way they work, they are interchangeable size-wise.

Weird. I can't fit the brass disk from the middle of the L7 on/off into the on/off hole in the X-Valve. It gets hung on the threads in the X-Valve.

[athomas]

I have a Tac One that has been leaking out of the barrel basically since I got it shortly after Christmas. At first it would stop once I adjusted the carrier down a size but once I fired a handfull of shots it started leaking again leading me to belive it was just breaking in. Last time I played with it it started to leak with the smallest carrier on it. Today I fianlly had the time to swap out all the O-Rings and try different carrier and shim combinations and I havent had any luck, I cant even get it to stop for those handful of shots I used to get out of it.

I really would like to get this thing working before Castle Conquest next weekend if anyone has any ideas before I finally break down and send it to AGD for fixin.

-B-

Remove all the powertube shims when tuning the level 10. Now try to find the largest carrier that doesn't leak. If it still leaks, even with a carrier that is too tight and causes bolt stick, then change the carrier oring and retune.

Also, make sure you have the rail bushing in place.

[-B-]

OK so it leaks with no shims, the smallest carrier, and all three O-Rings.

I have no idea what the rail bushing is so please forgive my newbness but I'm 99% certain everything went back together the way I took it apart.

I also noticed this week while testing and tinkering that my tank does have a small leak in, PMI tank from the reg as always, is it possible this is affecting the marker?

3 days till I need it up and running.

[athomas]

Weird. I can't fit the brass disk from the middle of the L7 on/off into the on/off hole in the X-Valve. It gets hung on the threads in the X-Valve.

There are no threads in the on-off hole. The hole for the on-off assembly is 3/8" in diameter. All valve have the same dimensions here.

[athomas]

OK so it leaks with no shims, the smallest carrier, and all three O-Rings.

I have no idea what the rail bushing is so please forgive my newbness but I'm 99% certain everything went back together the way I took it apart.

I also noticed this week while testing and tinkering that my tank does have a small leak in, PMI tank from the reg as always, is it possible this is affecting the marker?

3 days till I need it up and running.

The rail bushing is an insert that fits in the hole at the back of the rail where the field strip screw holds the valve in place. Without this bushing, the valve won't sit in the proper location. It definately could cause your problems if it is missing.

[-B-]

I got a screw with a washer on it. And I think thats it. Tell me more about this bushing most importantly what the hell does it look like. I'm pretty sure I never ended up with extra parts.

Edit - I looked up a picture of it on google. I don't remember seeing anything like that, I'll have to strip the gun apart again tomorrow to take a look see.

Any chance that an AGD dealer will be down at Castle Conquest for me to get one from cause my local shop does not carry them?

[athomas]

I got a screw with a washer on it. And I think thats it. Tell me more about this bushing most importantly what the hell does it look like. I'm pretty sure I never ended up with extra parts.

Edit - I looked up a picture of it on google. I don't remember seeing anything like that, I'll have to strip the gun apart again tomorrow to take a look see.

Any chance that an AGD dealer will be down at Castle Conquest for me to get one from cause my local shop does not carry them?

Here is what the bushing looks like.

http://store.airgun.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.prodInfo&productID=403&categoryID=96

[MPRoberts0]

Where to get springs

Hi guys,

One of my level 10 springs snapped while I was shooting, not sure how. So where can I get a replacement????
Thanks!
[email protected]

[athomas]

Hi guys,

One of my level 10 springs snapped while I was shooting, not sure how. So where can I get a replacement????
Thanks!
[email protected]

Rarely happens, but has been known to. You can buy new ones through dealers that carry AGD products or from AGD directly. You should have a couple of spares anyway along with spare orings for the valve. The springs are consumable and need to replaced periodically anyway.

[Freebird]

I just received my lvl 10 kit and went through a whole 68ci tank tuning it in so it dosent leak. It passed the squigie test and the bolt also stopped when i stuck my finger in there but as soon as i put paint in it, it turned into a super soaker within 20 rounds. I tried using a tighter carrier with the longer spring but there is still too much force from the bolt that breaks the ball. Also it seems not to "stop" somtimes, i learned this after i stuck my finger in there and lets say there was no LvL 10

Does anyone have any idea what could be wrong


i am using the carrier with 2 lines cut, and 2 shims
also a docs machine adapter with a spyder rubber nubbin, trimmed down a little.

i also find somtimes that the bolt does not return after hitting my finger/squigie
any possible soultion?

[athomas]

I just received my lvl 10 kit and went through a whole 68ci tank tuning it in so it dosent leak. It passed the squigie test and the bolt also stopped when i stuck my finger in there but as soon as i put paint in it, it turned into a super soaker within 20 rounds. I tried using a tighter carrier with the longer spring but there is still too much force from the bolt that breaks the ball. Also it seems not to "stop" somtimes, i learned this after i stuck my finger in there and lets say there was no LvL 10

Does anyone have any idea what could be wrong


i am using the carrier with 2 lines cut, and 2 shims
also a docs machine adapter with a spyder rubber nubbin, trimmed down a little.

i also find somtimes that the bolt does not return after hitting my finger/squigie
any possible soultion?

Use the proper carrier size, not the tighter one. That is the reason it is not resetting for you.

It sounds like you had your level 10 properly set up. If you can fire and it resets on your finger, then you are good to go. Paint breaking is most likely bad paint and/or a barrel id that is too tight. If you are using a barrel adapter, that is probably the problem. They have a tendency to be small in the bore.

[athomas]

I just received my lvl 10 kit and went through a whole 68ci tank tuning it in so it dosent leak. It passed the squigie test and the bolt also stopped when i stuck my finger in there but as soon as i put paint in it, it turned into a super soaker within 20 rounds. I tried using a tighter carrier with the longer spring but there is still too much force from the bolt that breaks the ball. Also it seems not to "stop" somtimes, i learned this after i stuck my finger in there and lets say there was no LvL 10

Does anyone have any idea what could be wrong


i am using the carrier with 2 lines cut, and 2 shims
also a docs machine adapter with a spyder rubber nubbin, trimmed down a little.

i also find somtimes that the bolt does not return after hitting my finger/squigie
any possible soultion?

Use the proper carrier size, not the tighter one. That is the reason it is not resetting for you.

It sounds like you had your level 10 properly set up. If you can fire and it resets on your finger, then you are good to go. Paint breaking is most likely bad paint and/or a barrel id that is too tight. If you are using a barrel adapter, that is probably the problem. They have a tendency to be small in the bore.

[Freebird]

Use the proper carrier size, not the tighter one. That is the reason it is not resetting for you.

It sounds like you had your level 10 properly set up. If you can fire and it resets on your finger, then you are good to go. Paint breaking is most likely bad paint and/or a barrel id that is too tight. If you are using a barrel adapter, that is probably the problem. They have a tendency to be small in the bore.

thank you, it took me 500 more rounds but i finally got it tuned in. I also convinced my field to change paint, because apparently i was'nt the only one having problems, it seems this paint company put "white box" paint in fancy boxes and marked TOURNAMENT GRADE on the side. But no fear after buying some RPS all star i could actually run accurate tests and now the thing shoots like a dream even with the "tournament grade" shatty field paint.

thank you for your reply.