** Official Level 10 Problems Thread **

[Darthmag99]

a little help

I have the X valve and level 10 installed in my marker. this x valve I transplanted from one marker to another, I dont have the old one anymore. However it worked fine in the old body and rail. Since I have changed it into the new body, The bolt dosent quite seat all the way back anymore, it is slightly forward, and leaks heavily down the barrell. I have tried changing springs but when I manage to get it to fire with w heavier spring, it leaks. It stops leaking when I hold the trigger down if I manually re seat the bolt. I have changed the or rings in the on off assembly with no avai-

okay I started over from scratch- wiht all new level 10 parts and fixed it- it was the o-ring that was bad and I had to go to the smallest carrier- but its not leaking, the bolt is not forward and its working.

[athomas]

I have the X valve and level 10 installed in my marker. this x valve I transplanted from one marker to another, I dont have the old one anymore. However it worked fine in the old body and rail. Since I have changed it into the new body, The bolt dosent quite seat all the way back anymore, it is slightly forward, and leaks heavily down the barrell. I have tried changing springs but when I manage to get it to fire with w heavier spring, it leaks. It stops leaking when I hold the trigger down if I manually re seat the bolt. I have changed the or rings in the on off assembly with no avai-

okay I started over from scratch- wiht all new level 10 parts and fixed it- it was the o-ring that was bad and I had to go to the smallest carrier- but its not leaking, the bolt is not forward and its working.

Also, remove the shims. They may be exposing the vent hole making it leak when it normally wouldn't.

[mudpie]

Sorry if this was posted already, but I think I have a combo of some of the above probs. I'm new to mags...coming from an F2 Illustrator...big leap!

NEWLY acquired Micromag with a minimag valve and level 10, all look barely used.
Longest of 3 springs is installed. The middle spring is NOT cut, it is red colored...
Running CO2 (my HPA is being hydro'd) on a remote.

Velocity started above 300, so adjusted it down.
Erratic velocity, but got more stable after a few rounds.
Stuck rubbery barrel squeegee in feed port to test anti-chop, that worked fine 10 times.
BUT, after removing squeegee, bolt would not go forward fully and just chuffed.
That reminded me that the gun prob needed oiling, so added 4 drops of oil into the valve inlet and fired. No change...chuff chuff and bolt didn't go fully forward.
Then, after 15 more times, nothing...trigger moved but nothing happened...

After sitting overnight, gun fires but velocity is inconsistent still.

Help! Want to use the new gun this Sunday!
Is this a combination of problems?
I'm guessing: larger carrier AND middle-length (red) spring? Why isn't my mid-length spring cut?

Thanks! I love my new mag, even though it isn't working

[Badmovies.org]

Sorry if this was posted already, but I think I have a combo of some of the above probs. I'm new to mags...coming from an F2 Illustrator...big leap!

Have you tuned the Lvl 10 from scratch?

Oil your o-ring, put it into the 2.0 carrier (2 lines, no dots), slide it onto the bolt stem and attempt to dangle the bolt (you are holding the carrier while trying this). If the bolt slips off the carrier from its own weight, go to a smaller carrier. Use the largest carrier that will not allow the bolt to slip off using this test. Do not add any shims yet. Oil everything, assemble, and break in the o-ring by shooting out a tank of air (Note 1). After doing this, you may need to change carriers and use the next smallest. Now, start adding shims one at a time until it leaks down the barrel. Take the shim out. You are ready to go.

NOTE 1: With CO2 I would shoot out about a 9 oz tank of CO2, but do it at a steady pace. Do not let the marker get freezing, because you will change the fit of the o-ring.

I always use either the red spring (they started making a red middle length spring, rather than cutting down the longer springs) or the long silver spring. Neither of those should affect tuning the Lvl 10. One thing that might is if you get liquid CO2 into the marker, but that should not be the case with a remote.

[mudpie]

Badmovies, that was nice advice and I thought that would fix it...but no...
Basically, I went from a 0 to a 1.5 carrier (2.0 was loose).
Same issue, fired a few dozen, then it started chuffing sometimes, then every time, then the trigger did NOTHING.
I'm positive if I try it again in a few hours, it'll fire again, but with the same degradation.
Maybe not a level 10 issue? I'll post in the tech section as well.

Have you tuned the Lvl 10 from scratch?

Oil your o-ring, put it into the 2.0 carrier (2 lines, no dots), slide it onto the bolt stem and attempt to dangle the bolt (you are holding the carrier while trying this). If the bolt slips off the carrier from its own weight, go to a smaller carrier. Use the largest carrier that will not allow the bolt to slip off using this test. Do not add any shims yet. Oil everything, assemble, and break in the o-ring by shooting out a tank of air (Note 1). After doing this, you may need to change carriers and use the next smallest. Now, start adding shims one at a time until it leaks down the barrel. Take the shim out. You are ready to go.

NOTE 1: With CO2 I would shoot out about a 9 oz tank of CO2, but do it at a steady pace. Do not let the marker get freezing, because you will change the fit of the o-ring.

I always use either the red spring (they started making a red middle length spring, rather than cutting down the longer springs) or the long silver spring. Neither of those should affect tuning the Lvl 10. One thing that might is if you get liquid CO2 into the marker, but that should not be the case with a remote.

[athomas]

Sorry if this was posted already, but I think I have a combo of some of the above probs. I'm new to mags...coming from an F2 Illustrator...big leap!

NEWLY acquired Micromag with a minimag valve and level 10, all look barely used.
Longest of 3 springs is installed. The middle spring is NOT cut, it is red colored...
Running CO2 (my HPA is being hydro'd) on a remote.

Velocity started above 300, so adjusted it down.
Erratic velocity, but got more stable after a few rounds.
Stuck rubbery barrel squeegee in feed port to test anti-chop, that worked fine 10 times.
BUT, after removing squeegee, bolt would not go forward fully and just chuffed.
That reminded me that the gun prob needed oiling, so added 4 drops of oil into the valve inlet and fired. No change...chuff chuff and bolt didn't go fully forward.
Then, after 15 more times, nothing...trigger moved but nothing happened...

After sitting overnight, gun fires but velocity is inconsistent still.

Help! Want to use the new gun this Sunday!
Is this a combination of problems?
I'm guessing: larger carrier AND middle-length (red) spring? Why isn't my mid-length spring cut?

Thanks! I love my new mag, even though it isn't working

As mentioned, use the middle spring instead of the longer one. Don't forget to adjust the velocity so that it is high enough to properly cycle the marker. Use the largest carrier that doesn't leak. Don't use any shims when setting up the level 10. Make sure the sear is not worn at the tip. It may allow the bolt to sit forward and require you to use a carrier that is too tight in order to keep it from leaking.

If the above doesn't work, try the shortest spring.

Make sure the trigger rod isn't touching the back of the trigger when the gun is gassed up and the trigger is forward.

[crichter225]

Level 10 leak

I have a level 10 on a Retro Valve mounted on a classic rail with a Y grip. Several times per session the valve begins to leak slowly and this usually is solved by taking a few more shots. The leak is in the barrel area. It's really not a problem except if the lead develops when there is a long pause, like between games and I cannot shoot the marker to stop the leak. Any ideas?
CRichter

[athomas]

I have a level 10 on a Retro Valve mounted on a classic rail with a Y grip. Several times per session the valve begins to leak slowly and this usually is solved by taking a few more shots. The leak is in the barrel area. It's really not a problem except if the lead develops when there is a long pause, like between games and I cannot shoot the marker to stop the leak. Any ideas?
CRichter

First, remove a shim or two from the powertube. If that doesn't solve your problem, then go to the next smaller carrier using the same powertube oring. Your problem should go away.

[drg]

Perhaps someone could assist -
I am installing a Level 10 kit on my classic. I cannot seem to find a carrier that, with the o-ring installed, is anywhere near "snug" on the bolt stem ... even the smallest one is still loose. Sure enough when I install and gas to check for carrier fitment, it leaks massively when the trigger is released.

[athomas]

Perhaps someone could assist -
I am installing a Level 10 kit on my classic. I cannot seem to find a carrier that, with the o-ring installed, is anywhere near "snug" on the bolt stem ... even the smallest one is still loose. Sure enough when I install and gas to check for carrier fitment, it leaks massively when the trigger is released.

Make sure all the shims are removed before you try the carrier and oring. If the smallest carrier is still too loose with the current oring, try another oring.

[drg]

No shims being used... tried all three o-rings and none is even close to snug ...?

Anyone know the specifications of the o-rings?

[bry10bry]

automag rt ule newb

NEWB
I just bought a used automag rt ule lvl 10 x valve HPA..
I cleaned oiled and put the gun back together straight, attempted chronographing my gun and it shoots nice then after a little while it stops cocking or reloading (like there is no pressure in the gun). The tank is not empty, I tried reading the manual and some posts but I have no clue..?

One other thing, that little black foamie thing fell off the front of the lvl 10.. ??

Thanks.

[Badmovies.org]

NEWB
I just bought a used automag rt ule lvl 10 x valve HPA..
I cleaned oiled and put the gun back together straight, attempted chronographing my gun and it shoots nice then after a little while it stops cocking or reloading (like there is no pressure in the gun). The tank is not empty, I tried reading the manual and some posts but I have no clue..?

One other thing, that little black foamie thing fell off the front of the lvl 10.. ??

Thanks.

When you pull the trigger is there any resistance or is it completely loose, as if not gassed? My first guess is bolt stick and that you need to tune the Lvl 10 or replace your bolt spring. Get a new red spring and replace the bolt spring. As for tuning the Lvl 10:

Oil your o-ring, put it into the 2.0 carrier (2 lines, no dots), slide it onto the bolt stem and attempt to dangle the bolt (you are holding the carrier while trying this). If the bolt slips off the carrier from its own weight, go to a smaller carrier. Use the largest carrier that will not allow the bolt to slip off using this test. Do not add any shims yet. Oil everything, assemble, and break in the o-ring by shooting out a tank of air. After doing this, you may need to change carriers and use the next smallest. Now, start adding shims one at a time until it leaks down the barrel. Take a shim out. You are ready to go.

Losing the foamie is no big deal, but you can buy a pack of new ones. Tunamart.com and TheMagSmith.com carry them (along with bolt springs).

[athomas]

No shims being used... tried all three o-rings and none is even close to snug ...?

Anyone know the specifications of the o-rings?

It is strange that your orings are too loose with the smallest carrier. That rarely happens. If the orings are all too loose, you may need an oring from another batch.

[athomas]

NEWB
I just bought a used automag rt ule lvl 10 x valve HPA..
I cleaned oiled and put the gun back together straight, attempted chronographing my gun and it shoots nice then after a little while it stops cocking or reloading (like there is no pressure in the gun). The tank is not empty, I tried reading the manual and some posts but I have no clue..?

One other thing, that little black foamie thing fell off the front of the lvl 10.. ??

Thanks.

Sounds like bolt stick. Use the next larger carrier. Do this without any shims installed.