** Official Level 10 Problems Thread **

[Rusher360]

No, you remove a ULT shim to reduce the bounce.

o...right

[Jim888]

ok lvl 10 on classic valve not working...airs up fine no leak but acts like bolt stick but pushing on the bolt doesn't reset it...any Ideas?

[alofus]

ok lvl 10 on classic valve not working...airs up fine no leak but acts like bolt stick but pushing on the bolt doesn't reset it...any Ideas?

No offence but get a decent gun, got 2 normal and 1 micro mag in the cupboard for years now, get a Ion or Angel or even a cocker, they are going quite cheap now

[athomas]

ok lvl 10 on classic valve not working...airs up fine no leak but acts like bolt stick but pushing on the bolt doesn't reset it...any Ideas?

Was the valve working? Did you just put the level 10 on and it stopped working? If I understand you correctly, the trigger is limp and doesn't reset when you push the bolt back.

Explain your complete gun setup so we can get a better understanding of your situation.


Don't mind "alofus". He's obviously an uninformed noob.

[Jim888]

Was the valve working? Did you just put the level 10 on and it stopped working? If I understand you correctly, the trigger is limp and doesn't reset when you push the bolt back.

Explain your complete gun setup so we can get a better understanding of your situation.

yes the valve worked busted a power tube o-ring so barrel leak got in lvl 10 put it on classic valve gun airs up no leaks trigger is firm and engages the sear but will no fire...also something previously I thought to be unrelated but am now thinking possibly my have a part is my on off pin everytime I try and take out the valve I have to remove the body and rail because the on/off pin pushes out and down into the hole in the body that the sear sticks through and will not go back up...any Ideas?

Don't mind "alofus". He's obviously an uninformed noob.

in response to him I have several guns but prefer my mags to the dm3 and pump cocker

and yes I've shot Ions and angels but still prefer my mags

[athomas]

yes the valve worked busted a power tube o-ring so barrel leak got in lvl 10 put it on classic valve gun airs up no leaks trigger is firm and engages the sear but will no fire...

Don't forget to increase the velocity adjustment. The level 10 bolt operates at a much higher pressure than the level 7 bolt, especially with the red or grey spring. Make sure you test the level 10 setup without any shims installed. Always use the largest carrier that doesn't leak. A leak caused by too many shims could accidently be compensated for by using a carrier size that is too small. The tight carrier would then cause bolt stick issues.

also something previously I thought to be unrelated but am now thinking possibly my have a part is my on off pin everytime I try and take out the valve I have to remove the body and rail because the on/off pin pushes out and down into the hole in the body that the sear sticks through and will not go back up...any Ideas?

Always pull and hold the trigger in when removing the valve. It will keep the pin pushed up inside the valve and away from the hole in the body.

[Jim888]

Don't forget to increase the velocity adjustment. The level 10 bolt operates at a much higher pressure than the level 7 bolt, especially with the red or grey spring. Make sure you test the level 10 setup without any shims installed. Always use the largest carrier that doesn't leak. A leak caused by too many shims could accidently be compensated for by using a carrier size that is too small. The tight carrier would then cause bolt stick issues.

Always pull and hold the trigger in when removing the valve. It will keep the pin pushed up inside the valve and away from the hole in the body.

ok issues still....I did forget about increasing velocity...that helped. some

using carrier #2 (2 lines) and one shim no leaks and will cycle but now I have bolt stick...fire stick...push bolt back fire...stick (repeat)

I've tried changing carrier size and adding shims and different springs... nothing works...

oh and I have been holding in the trigger when taking out the valve...still does not keep pin far enough in

[athomas]

ok issues still....I did forget about increasing velocity...that helped. some

using carrier #2 (2 lines) and one shim no leaks and will cycle but now I have bolt stick...fire stick...push bolt back fire...stick (repeat)

I've tried changing carrier size and adding shims and different springs... nothing works...

oh and I have been holding in the trigger when taking out the valve...still does not keep pin far enough in

If you are getting bolt stick using the 2.0 carrier, go to the 2.5 carrier. The bolt stick is directly related to the carrier oring being too tight. It is usually too tight due to a carrier that is too small. Don't add shims just yet. Wait until you get it working first. Shims only adjust how far the bolt has to move before it vents the excess air and can reset itself after a breach blockage. Too many shims can cause leaking not related to the carrier size.

As for the on-off pin;

How much distance is between the back of the trigger and the front of the trigger rod when the gun is gassed up and ready to go with the trigger pushed fully forward? There should be about a credit card thickness. Too much distance and you won't be able to push the pin in far enough to remove the valve.

[Jim888]

If you are getting bolt stick using the 2.0 carrier, go to the 2.5 carrier. The bolt stick is directly related to the carrier oring being too tight. It is usually too tight due to a carrier that is too small. Don't add shims just yet. Wait until you get it working first. Shims only adjust how far the bolt has to move before it vents the excess air and can reset itself after a breach blockage. Too many shims can cause leaking not related to the carrier size.

As for the on-off pin;

How much distance is between the back of the trigger and the front of the trigger rod when the gun is gassed up and ready to go with the trigger pushed fully forward? There should be about a credit card thickness. Too much distance and you won't be able to push the pin in far enough to remove the valve.

ok adjusted the sear a little it was just a little short...thats working right now...BUT I put in the 2.5 carrier and now I have a leak and the gun wont cycle....Grrr

[athomas]

ok adjusted the sear a little it was just a little short...thats working right now...BUT I put in the 2.5 carrier and now I have a leak and the gun wont cycle....Grrr

Go back to the 2.0 carrier. What bolt spring are you using, and what is your velocity set to? Try the short gold spring to start.

[Jim888]

Go back to the 2.0 carrier. What bolt spring are you using, and what is your velocity set to? Try the short gold spring to start.

using short gold spring and I have no clue velocity wise right now...cant find my crony

and I had to bump it up to get the gun to cycle

[athomas]

using short gold spring and I have no clue velocity wise right now...cant find my crony

and I had to bump it up to get the gun to cycle

If its getting bolt stick while firing with the largest carrier that doesn't leak, try a new level 10 oring and retune it. You may have a defective oring.

[Jim888]

If its getting bolt stick while firing with the largest carrier that doesn't leak, try a new level 10 oring and retune it. You may have a defective oring.

are you taking about the Oring that goes in the carrier?

[athomas]

are you taking about the Oring that goes in the carrier?

Yes

[DBC]

The black rubber thing in my Level 10 bolt came out and is gone. Can this be replaced or must I buy a new bolt? If I can replace it, what is it called or what is the part number?

Thanks.