Originally posted by DBC
** Official Level 10 Problems Thread **
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This is a sticky topic.
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It is called a foamy. They can be purchased and reinstalled. Make sure the front surface is clean and use an epoxy to reattach it. You can use the bolt without it if you want. The foamy just prevents rollback of the ball.Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.
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I am frustrated (wont stop leaking down barrel)
I have a level ten on my retro valve. I only got a partial set of carriers from the seller. He tuned it and tested it in his mag and everything was working fine. When I put it in my minimag and aired it up it just leaks air pretty quickly down the barrel. I moved to the next smallest carrier he sent me and it leaks just as bad. I have the 1 and the .5 carrier. They are the second and third smallest. I also have 2 shims in it. What could it be? Its really frustrating me. I put new orings in the on/off just incase it was that, but it didnt help. I also putting 1k psi to the valve, but it also leaks all the way down to 400 psi.
Thanks,
Barry
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im sure youve heard this a million times but heres my set up i have the gold spring in the Lv.10 with i think 3-4 shims and the ult with who know how many shims. but the im getting leaks down the barrel ? i add a shim it gets worse i take one away and it just chuffs whats the dealllll? and when i get it to stop leaking the first shot rolls out the barrel and then the rest are good ?
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Go back to the original carrier that was in the valve. Remove all the shims. If the sear has any wear at all, the shims could be pushing the carrier back beyond the vent hole in the bolt stem, thus allowing it to leak. If it still leaks, check the condition of the sear tip. If it shows excessive wear, you may need to replace it.Originally posted by phatty123I have a level ten on my retro valve. I only got a partial set of carriers from the seller. He tuned it and tested it in his mag and everything was working fine. When I put it in my minimag and aired it up it just leaks air pretty quickly down the barrel. I moved to the next smallest carrier he sent me and it leaks just as bad. I have the 1 and the .5 carrier. They are the second and third smallest. I also have 2 shims in it. What could it be? Its really frustrating me. I put new orings in the on/off just incase it was that, but it didnt help. I also putting 1k psi to the valve, but it also leaks all the way down to 400 psi.
Thanks,
BarryExcept for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.
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Shims don't cause chuffing. If you are getting chuffing, it is most likely caused by a carrier that is too tight or a ULT that is not tuned properly. If you have leaking down the front, you probably have too many shims installed in the powertube. Remove them all when tuning your level 10. The level 10 setup should work fine without any shims at all. Shims only adjust how far the bolt has to move before it can vent. They don't affect the normal operation.Originally posted by elephant toastim sure youve heard this a million times but heres my set up i have the gold spring in the Lv.10 with i think 3-4 shims and the ult with who know how many shims. but the im getting leaks down the barrel ? i add a shim it gets worse i take one away and it just chuffs whats the dealllll? and when i get it to stop leaking the first shot rolls out the barrel and then the rest are good ?Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.
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With the marker aired up, gently push the bolt straight back towards the valve. If the leak stops as you push it back, then something is out of tolerance. If the leak persists, then you need to go to the next smaller carrier or change carrier orings and start again.Originally posted by phatty123I dont seem to see any wear on my sear. Maybe the tolerances are different. I went back to the 1 carrier from the point five and no shims and the leak is almost gone. What now?
BarryExcept for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.
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Originally posted by phatty123I dont seem to see any wear on my sear. Maybe the tolerances are different. I went back to the 1 carrier from the point five and no shims and the leak is almost gone. What now?
Barry
Well thanks for eveyones help. Finally it is fixed. My local pball store owner hates automags and pretty much dumps his parts on me for cheap. Today when I was getting a fill I asked him if he had any orings that would fit the inside of the carriers. While he was looking I saw he had a level 10 kit. I went through it and it had all the carriers except the 2.0 carrier. It had extra orings, shims, all three springs, the cd, bolt foamies, and all the original level 7 parts. The only thing it was missing was the 2.0 carrier. Well he sold it to me for twenty bucks. I took it home and replaced the backing washer and shims and installed a new oring in the 1.5 carrier. I put it all back to together and it works perfectly. Also he is selling me an orginal brand new automag rt and a slightly upgraded 68 classic power feed with level 10 for 150 bucks. They both have air america armeggedon tank regs on their drop forwards as well. i don't have the money, but I'm putting them on layaway. Damnit I love the good deals.

all I need is a bicycle grip and she is done.
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Remove the shims when tuning. Use the largest carrier that does not leak. Always use the same white carrier oring when testing carrier sizes. If you have problems where the gun normally fires properly, but doesn't reset after a bolt vent due to a breach blockage, then add a couple of shims. Otherwise, I wouldn't bother with the shims.Originally posted by SkiddzI have a new tac-one and i realize the level 10 isn't tuned from the factory. What exactly needs changing from new, just the shims and carriers to achieve the anti chop functionality?
The carriers affect operational bolt stick.
Shims affect how far the bolt has to travel before it can reset.
Bolt springs affect the bolt impact force, which is the anti-chop ability.Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.
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Yes, just adjust your carrier to prevent bolt stick. Use the stiffest spring that allows your gun to fire consistently. You should be able fire your gun almost 20fps lower than your desired fps setting. If the gun stops firing if you adjust the velocity setting less than 20 fps below the desired setting, then your bolt spring is too stiff and you should use the next smaller/lighter one.Originally posted by Skiddzso all i need to do to tune my level 10 is adjust the carrier and wage if i need to add shims?Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.
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I won't be able to get back to tuning my Tac-One for another day, so I was hoping you guys could help me diagnose my problem. I read this problem on the forum before but couldn't find it again.
I am using the same white O-ring every time I change carriers
When using 1.5 carrier with 0 shims, shortest spring, there is a slight leak.
Move down to 1.0 carrier with 0 shims, shortest spring, there is no leak.
So, my Tac-One is set up at: 1.0 carrier, 3 shims, shortest spring.
I kept adding shims until it leaked, then took one shim out.
Problem:
If I fire slowly, with 2 second intervals, my marker releases air out the front bolt. But if I fire rapidly, I have no problem, except on the first shot which releases air out the front bolt.
So what would the be the problem here?
Thanks a lot!!
-Mark
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Take one more shim out.Originally posted by aznmarkofdafijiI won't be able to get back to tuning my Tac-One for another day, so I was hoping you guys could help me diagnose my problem. I read this problem on the forum before but couldn't find it again.
I am using the same white O-ring every time I change carriers
When using 1.5 carrier with 0 shims, shortest spring, there is a slight leak.
Move down to 1.0 carrier with 0 shims, shortest spring, there is no leak.
So, my Tac-One is set up at: 1.0 carrier, 3 shims, shortest spring.
I kept adding shims until it leaked, then took one shim out.
Problem:
If I fire slowly, with 2 second intervals, my marker releases air out the front bolt. But if I fire rapidly, I have no problem, except on the first shot which releases air out the front bolt.
So what would the be the problem here?
Thanks a lot!!
-MarkExcept for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.
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is it unusual to switch to the smallest carrier? By smallest i mean the smallest carrier you are given.
Also can you outshoot the mag? I had some paintballs get shot so fast that i had some kind of drop out. I broke some paint but looked in the breech and nothing. In fact the barrel was clean up until the tip.
So those are some questions i wanted cleared up. Also i'm not sure if my level 10 is tuned right still. I've tried the paper trick and the paintball on tape trick but none proved my theory.
The only reason im on the smallest is because after i shot a hopper or so through my tac-one the gun started slightly leaking from the barrel.
(this tac one is fairly new. only 2 cases through it)
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