** Official Level 10 Problems Thread **

[athomas]

just got my micro back from AGD...it had :
* ule trigger kit installed
*x-valve with level 10 installed
settings : x-valve: gold spring,carrier #1, 3 shims...
ule: no shims

problem is sometimes when gun fired...trigger goes dead and it looks like the bolt is not returning back all the way...if i look through the ball feed i can see the leading edge of the bolt sticking outward slightly.
Now...is it a level 10 problem or ule problem?
using a pure energy 3000 psi 48 cu tank..hoping to fix this on my own...live in canada and really dont wanta have to ship it back to roman

The fist thing to do is remove all the level 10 shims from the powertube. Then use the largest carrier that does not leak. Always use the same white powertube oring in each carrier that you try. Once you get that done, try firing your gun to see if the same thing happens. If it does, then you move onto the ULT setup.

The problem with the micromags, is that the on-off pins are typically shorter than a regular mag on-off pin. On a typical retro mag, you use between 4 - 6 ULT shims. That translates to .020" to .030" of adjustment. Some micromag spacing differences cause the ULT to already have that much equivalent length added to the assembly, which is why it probably was shipped to you with no ULT shims installed. Once you get the level 10 tuned, play with the ULT. All you can do is add shims until you get a runaway effect. Then remove the 1 or two shims that caused it.

The ULT shims are 0.005" thick. The level 10 shims are 0.010" thick. Don't get them mixed up.

[pepper]

I have a PTP Micromag
Inteli frame
Retro valve
LvL 10 bolt setup.

I'm just looking for a step by step process on how to install the LVL 10. If I run into any problems I know I can ask in this thread- but for now I cant seem to find a "how to" on the LVL 10.





Thanks
Pep

[secretweaponevan]

I have a PTP Micromag
Inteli frame
Retro valve
LvL 10 bolt setup.

I'm just looking for a step by step process on how to install the LVL 10. If I run into any problems I know I can ask in this thread- but for now I cant seem to find a "how to" on the LVL 10.





Thanks
Pep

Up top of the forums.
[RESOURCES ]
[Level 10 Guide ]

That and youtube: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V0mvr30jKhw

[pepper]

Im glad it wasnt a snake, thanks man.

[secretweaponevan]

Im glad it wasnt a snake, thanks man.

LOL!
You're welcome.

[ravenlord]

Ok, I am new to the lvl10, read a lot of the help thread, but didn't find anything.

When I installed his bolt I made sure it was the proper sized carrier, and installed in the right order, no shims, red spring, and the pressure is cranked up, but it is still only moving about half way forward, chuffing and then returning back to the neutreal position. I have no idea what is happening, so if anyone has any ideas that would eb great.

[lidocaine]

raven add shims one at a time until it shoots consistently.

[athomas]

Ok, I am new to the lvl10, read a lot of the help thread, but didn't find anything.

When I installed his bolt I made sure it was the proper sized carrier, and installed in the right order, no shims, red spring, and the pressure is cranked up, but it is still only moving about half way forward, chuffing and then returning back to the neutreal position. I have no idea what is happening, so if anyone has any ideas that would eb great.

It sounds like you need more pressure. Have you tried increasing the velocity setting even more? Perhaps the bolt is fetching up on something such as a ball detent or a barrel that is not centered. What type of body are you using?

Don't use any shims. Shims only shorten the distance that the bolt needs to move before it can vent air. You are already getting a chuff, so shims won't help.

The fact that it is returning to the reset position would indicate that your carrier is sized correctly.

[stiffmeister]

bolt won't reset after chop

using 1.5 carrier and 2 shims and the bolt won't reset automatically after a simulated chop with my battle swab. suggestions??????

[secretweaponevan]

using 1.5 carrier and 2 shims and the bolt won't reset automatically after a simulated chop with my battle swab. suggestions??????

Add oil.
Use largest carrier that doesn't leak.
Add oil.
Add shims until it resets reliably after it encounters a jam.

[athomas]

using 1.5 carrier and 2 shims and the bolt won't reset automatically after a simulated chop with my battle swab. suggestions??????

Always use the largest carrier that doesn't leak. When checking carrier sizes, don't use any shims. A shim leak can sometimes appear like a carrier leak and can cause you to use a carrier that is too tight.

Adding shims shortens the distance that the bolt needs to travel before it can vent air and reset. If your setup is venting when it encounters a blockage, then you don't need any more shims. Only use extra shims if the bolt moves, then stops on a blockage, doesn't vent, but won't reset.

[pepper]

[athomas]

Check for dots on the carriers as well as rings. Each ring represents a 1. Each dot represents a 0.5. So, a carrier without a anything is a size zero. A carrier with a single ring is size 1. A carrier with a single ring and a dot is a size 1.5.

If you have measured the id of the carrier, I would guess that the 0.304 is size 0, without any marks on it. 0.305 probably has a single dot and is size 0.5. 0.306 is probably a single ring and is size 1.0. 0.307 probably has a single ring and a dot and is size 1.5.

[rexydog]

Tac-one fullauto issue

Ok i'm new to all AGD guns, but i bought a tac-one new from AGD. When i got it it worked fine the first time i used it with the RT in it, so I installed the ULE kit after watching some online videos of how to do it. After that the gun would only do full auto no matter how many shims I installed on the ULE. So i put the RT back in and still always full auto. I called AGD and the man i spoke with was very helpful, and after about 30mins of differnt things he had me unscrew the regulator from the tube and move the Regulator seat o-ring from the seat to the grove in the regulator. I put the gun back together and it all worked great. Went out to use it the next weekend and agian full auto, so i moved the oring back to the regulator and it worked. It appeared that if i move the o-ring back to the regulator i can use the gun just fine but as soon as i ungas the marker i have to move that o-ring agian... that isn't normal right? I am gonna call AGD this week if i can't get it fixed this weekend. Thanks for any help guys.

[athomas]

.... Went out to use it the next weekend and agian full auto, so i moved the oring back to the regulator and it worked. It appeared that if i move the o-ring back to the regulator i can use the gun just fine but as soon as i ungas the marker i have to move that o-ring agian... that isn't normal right? ..

No, this is not normal. The regulator seat oring prevents the bottle pressure from getting into the the chamber. If this oring isn't working properly, you will probably experience air venting out the back due to overpressure in the chamber.

Does the mag stop firing when holding the trigger after a shot? Make sure you have the rail bushing installed when you put the mag back together.