** Official Level 10 Problems Thread **

[BlackVCG]

kutter- What's your velocity set at?

[kutter]

Well Black, when I had my Micro out a few days ago it was set about 285. I think the setup I have in there right now is this: 1.5 carrier, with well broken in o-ring, 2 shims, and longest spring. I noticed that my gun was too reactive with the middle spring but got a lot better with the longer springer, still nice and crisp, but not so prone to runaway. Temperature was in the mid 90's with humidity about the same and I was shooting fresh Marbalizer. I did not bounce test it as I shot all I had that day.

I have not had a chance to chrono my SFL since I got the lvl 10 installed, that will occur this weekend. I keep meaning to buy hand chrono but that Keely Watson poster at the pro shop is sooooo distracting

I ordered 2 regulator pistons yesterday and they should be here by friday, at least thats what I asked Marcia to do for me, so when I get them in and replace both then I will have a better idea what is going on.

[Irish Deth]

Leaking Out the Back

Just want to make sure I'm doing this right.
Changed the carrier to 1.5 to stop the down the barrel leak.
Leaking out the back, tried the shortest spring in the kit, leaks at 230fps or higher. I believe I need a new reg piston.
Is this correct?

I'm using a All American 14" from a splash kit.

[Havoc_online]

ya, sounds like it, what tpye of barrel are you using?

[DarkPhoenix]

After several months of flawless operation, I have to report a slight hick-up in lvl 10 operation. While at my local paintball store, allowing several friends and customers to try out my E-mag with the lvl 10 inside, my E-mag developed a massive leak down the barrel. After removing all paint and air from the gun, I proceed to remove the valve to find the bumper was totally shredded ( they did put almost 10 cases of paint through the gun, trying to cause a chop). After changing out the bumper, I re-aired the gun with the same problem. I then went home, being that I am the only E-mag in the area that I know of and probably the only owner of a level 10 in the area, to use my tools and parts. After trading out all the O-rings and switching O-ring carriers, I finally gave up and decided to post my problems on the tech forum. Havoc recommended that I check the piston on the bolt to see if it had moved out any, and lo and behold it had. After pushing it back in, the only way I could do it was to gently but forcefully use the desk to push it in, I re-aired my gun and it worked as usual. I was wondering if we have come up with a fix to this problem, as I have read long time ago of problems with the piston coming out, that and I am too lazy and time pressed to actually look it up because I am going out to the field to play!

[ALIAS_RT]

I need help

Alright i just baught a used RT, i put a lvl 10 in it, but i'm not sure if its working correctly, it won't break paint but 3 out of every 12 or so balls gets burped out and only go about 10yrds and sometimes i get a few balls that just roll out of the barrel when i tip the barrel down to the ground. Does the lvl 10 need to be adjusted or does it sound like i have something wrong with the gun itself?

Automag RT
Crossfire 88/4500
DYE Boomstick
LVL 10
Intelliframe on its way

[DarkPhoenix]

The balls rolling out of the barrel appear to be either a problem with the paint to barrel match (they might be very small) or a failure of the ball detent/nubbin. I recomend going with the newer plastic nubbins, as they will last a whole lot longer and they will not slice a ball, as the wire ones are likely to when they break.

As for the balls burping out, I have experienced that once in a while, but not extremely often. It only seems to happen to me when I fan the trigger for excessive periods of time. I do not know the cause, but my guess is that the tradeoff with having the level 10 is a slightly decreased rate of fire, which I am willing to deal with in exchange for not chopping paint

[BlackVCG]

DarkPhoenix- If you're handy with tools and Loctite, take off the foamie, take a drift pin and tap out the bolt pin from the hole exposed when you take off the foamie. This will remove the bolt pin so you can put a dab of RED Loctite on it and press fit it back in. Be sure to fully clean off any dirt from the tip of the pin surface that is press fitted into the bolt with rubbing alochol. Use a q-tip to wipe off any Loctite that comes out from pressing it in. I suggest using a flat faced hammer on the end of the bolt pin with short, but firm taps. The end of the bolt pin that you'll be hitting with the hammer doesn't contact anything so it's not an issue to hit it with a hammer, so long as you tap it in straight and don't slip. Use calipers to measure from the tip of the bolt to the tip of the pin. It should go in to 2.010".

[Dr.StockClass]

I know the carrier should be *snug* when its pushed in but how snug is snug? I snapped a pencil pushing so hard trying to get a carrier in. It seems like the carrier was machined too wide for it to fit in past the threads in the PT. I can't get the carrier in far enough for the lvl 10 PT tip to catch on the threads, but almost. Should I resort to *tapping* it in with a mallet or something similar?

[LittleJP]

Black, in my post (which was burried too quickly, Grrr) you told me to measure from the bolt tip to the end of the bolt pin, a distance which is supposed to be 2.01". Well, I did measurements and the bolt is 2 and 11/32 inches, much longer than 2.01". What do I do now? Should I send the LX kit in for a replacement bolt or what? Thanks, you have been very helpful up to now, and I appreciate it.

Edit: Thanks a million Black; everything looks good now, just waiting for it to be completely dry.

[BlackVCG]

Dr. StockClass- Pop it back out and then drop it back in. Use the back of a BIC pen and push it in with that. If you push it in wrong, it will go in at angle and it won't budge. Just make sure it looks like it's going in straight and it will go in.

LittleJP- Are you handy with loctite and a drift pin? If so all you need to do is take off the foamie, insert the drift pin into the hole that is uncovered when you take off the foamie and tap out the pin. Clean off the tip of the pin that press fits into the bolt with alcohol and and then put a dab of red loctite on it. Put it back in the hole and tap it in with a flat faced hammer. You really can't do any damage to the pin with the hammer so be sure to tap it nice and hard so it goes in all the way. Measure it so that it's 2.010" and then use a Q-Tip to wipe off any of the red loctite that came out when it was being press fitted. Let it sit for 24hrs and it should be good to go. Use one of your extra foamies that came with the kit to replace the old one. Be sure to clean off all of the old glue and rubber material before you put on the new one.

[Strider]

I've noticed that with level 10, the reactivness of my trigger is down to practically nil. Any recommendations? I saw a few posts regarding this earlier, but no answers... (I might have missed it, this is a LONG thread. )

Perhaps a FAQ regarding level 10 teching might be in order?

[Havoc_online]

it shouldnt affect reactiveness, what are your settings? are you sure you are using the biggest carrier that doesnt leak?

[MagMans13]

bolt stick or something else

ok my level 10 is awesome but sometimes i have to push on the front of my bolt to get it to fire again

then it will fire a couple shots then i must push again


what do i do ????????????????//


any help would be great

also i have some probs with my crossfire tank and it leaks out the fill nipple

any suggestions

thanks will

[Havoc_online]

if the bolt doesnt bleed the pressure, drop in another shim.

as for the fill nipple, check the o'ring that's in itmake sure the tank is empty