ALL about the WARP-FEED

**Havoc_online** · 09-18-2002, 05:37 AM

The warp is a great way to eliminate hopper hits, that's what it was designed for, the fact that it's fast is a bonus. A 9v warp feeds @ about 16BPS, a 12v around 24.

The warp weighs 1 pound and is well balanced once on the marker. It can feed paint at any angle using it's friction disks, although only in bursts. The warp needs to stay fed to keep the balls moving, once there is not enough balls in the warp, the warp does not have enough mass to throw up the feed hose to the marker. That's why an Electronic hopper(i.e. Revy, Rico, HALO) is recommended to feed your warp. If you outshoot your warp, then you have most likely outshot your hopper.

The warp is easy to maintain and can be mounted on pretty much any marker. The things you need to keep in mind is a good ball stack, fresh batteries, and lubing your friction disks every now and then(you can use a paintball, or oil for this, don't over do it though).

quick reference on jumper settings for different set-ups.
The right set of jumpers control what activate the warp(see warp manual).

with an Iframe- place a jumper on the top(neg.) pins

with an Emag- place a jumper on the mid(pos.) pins (The connection runs into the center plug on the Emag board with a Emag/warp interface cable found at the Airgun online store)

using the vib. sensor- place a jumper on the bottom(vib.) pins(the spare jumper may be placed in the mid(pos.) pins for storage(it comes like this from the factory).

The set of four jumpers on the left of the board control dwell time(see warp manual) you want to set your dwell time to 1/4 turn, no less.

New Warp's need to be broken in when new(see manual/Runin).

It's not a good idea to use different types of paint in the warp at the same time. Different bore paint won't let the friction disks grip all the paint in the wheel properly and that can lead to the warp not feeding properly.

**Havoc_online** · 09-18-2002, 05:48 AM

The warp friction disks should be straight, avoid leaving paint in the warp when it's not in use, this can make the friction disks spread apart and impair the ability to grip the paint properly. If your friction disks are not straight and have begun to spread apart you can flip them around.

The warp friction disks are spaced for most bore paint. If your having trouble using big bore paint, you can add a friction disk "spacer" or "shim" to space the friction disks further apart. This may give you problems with smaller bore paint though.

As an example I made a stencil out of cardboard from a cereal box.

**Havoc_online** · 09-18-2002, 05:51 AM

If you can tell from the pic, I placed the shim between the friction disks to spread them apart a bit.

**Havoc_online** · 09-18-2002, 05:56 AM

You can just barely see the shim once the wheel is assembled, the friction disks are now a bit further apart and should help with bigger paint. The thickness or the amount of shims you use depends on the paint. I have personally never had to use this method so the amount you spread the disks apart should be little by little with a lot of testing to make sure you dont go too far.

**Havoc_online** · 09-18-2002, 06:09 AM

Some problems you may run into or be familiar with is the hose being to loose and falling off the adaptor or the adaptor falling off the body.

To solve the hose to adaptor fit problem, simply use the big black o'rings supplied with the warp feed and wrap 2-3 around the ends of the hose. This will give a good snug fit. If you don't have the o'rings you can purchase some from the Airgun online store.(you might find some that fit from your local hardware store)

If you want to give the adaptor a snug fit to the body, you can get your hands on some friction tape sold and any hardware store. Simply cut a thin short strip not even long enough to loop the bottom of the powerfeed tube and that should be enough. This can be done so the tape is not seen once the adaptor is on.

Another thing you can do for a great stable hose is run it through your revy, it will not only lock the hose in place but the revy won't fly off either. This method also protects your ballstack from a hit that may either knock your hose off or break a few balls in the hose.

here's a pic of the hose with the rings.

**Polishpickles451** · 09-18-2002, 07:50 AM

great thread havoc!
I was wondering how these would work on a cocker. I heard that the vibration in a cocker would not activate the warp properly.

**Jack & Coke** · 09-18-2002, 10:00 AM

Excellent!!!

**hitech** · 09-18-2002, 11:08 AM

Originally posted by Polishpickles451
I was wondering how these would work on a cocker. I heard that the vibration in a cocker would not activate the warp properly.

There is at least one warp fed cocker at my field. He loves it. I believe he is using the vibration sensor.

BTW, I vote for making this thread a classic.

**Havoc_online** · 09-18-2002, 03:09 PM

Yes a cocker can and has been warped plenty of times. The easiest way would be to just use the sensor and play with your sensitivity(the blue dial) till you find a reliable point.

p.s. Thanks guys...

**joeyjoe367** · 09-19-2002, 01:53 AM

what's with this hose you guys have? Mine is like a big curly spiral... is mine just older stuff? Should I get the newer lookin' stuff you guys have?

**Havoc_online** · 09-19-2002, 02:05 AM

both hoses will work fine, the grey hose is the older stuff, the black hose is what comes with the newer warps. AGD just started getting thier hose somewhere else.

**Doobie** · 09-19-2002, 04:42 PM

Awsome! Up for a thread that deserves to be a classic in the Tech forum!

**LawFox32** · 09-24-2002, 03:25 PM

hey I got a question

can you used 20 gauge wire to make the warp=intellifeed instead of 22, will it make any difference?

thanx

**Havoc_online** · 09-24-2002, 04:46 PM

yes, the wire will be a tad thicker though, so you will have to cut into your grips that much more.

ALL about the WARP-FEED

[Guide] ALL about the WARP-FEED

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