maybe mags aren't for me- a final plea for help

[impostal22]

i've littered this one section of AO with tons and tons of tech help, cuz my gun hasn't been behaving for me. every game something new becomes a problem. today there were too many and now i need your help, badly. here is what happened..

problem #1:
i am running my mag on co2 and it's my only option, so i bought an aci 6 stage xchamber and a palmer stabilizer. macroline runs from the ASA to the xchamber, then to the stabilizer. it's set up correctly, i know that much. here's the problem though..whenever i take the tank off, i think the air stays built up inside the stabilizer and xchamber, and as i take it off it leaks a LOT of air (and the on-off pin on the tank never can turn off). so i take it off and right at the end it like pops off with a LOUD woosh of co2. this woosh sends the o-ring flying back onto the tank threading. i dunno if this has any bad affects, other than the strong possibility of constantly busting an o-ring when taking the tank off. not to mention it's really scary taking the tank off with that loud woosh. i've tried shooting as i take the tank off, but it doesn't help. which leads me to problem #2...

problem #2:
i originally had the level 10 set up fine. it worked for an unknown speed, and then i chronoed it around 300 and it stopped working (the bolt would shoot like a normal bolt). so i cranked it down a little, and now the bolt sticks a lot. here's the order of what happens. first the bolt starts shooting like it's hitting resistance (you know the sound), when there isn't any resistance whatsoever. then, after i do that few times, the bolt sticks back and when i pull the trigger nothing happens. so then when i take the tank off i have even MORE built up air in the gun and it ruined at least one of my o-rings. what velocities are the long/medium/small spring meant for? but this problem of the bolt never leaving the first stage of slow movement really is becoming a problem. it always leads to the bolt sticking, too.

problem #3:
the damn foamie in the bolt flew off a few days ago and i superglued it back on, shot like 1000 shots through it, and then it flew off again. damn foamie doesn't wanna stay on!!!!!!!!

problem #4:
the mag is becoming a lot of trouble for me but i still love it. playing becomes a very large frustration, though. PLEASE HELP ME!

[than205]

Problem 1: Yes, there will be alot of co2 stored in the setup you have. On the ASA that you screw the bottle into, there usually is a small vent hole on the side. What has/had be suggested to me in the past is to screw the bottle out (or a lttle past) till it starts to bleed the co2 out of the system. (exp. chamber and stab) When you get to that point on the venting the pin on the tank should be closed. When the marker is empty then you finish un-screwing the tank. A suggestion would be to get an on/off tank valve or ASA. Then you can shoot the marker dry with the tank shut off.

Problem 2: I think you will want to put a couple shims in. (this worked for me and as I recall I had the same problem) Plus, I oil the L10 quite a bit. And/or head over to the trouble shooting thread.

http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=43538

You can try different springs. The longer the spring the higher the velocity you would prefer. I believe.


Problem 3: I think cleaning the surface thoroughly where you glue the foamie is key. I would think nail polish remover will cover the the cleaning aspect of the old glue off the bolt. I don't think you want to use it on the foamie.
Make sure you let it dry really well before you try to glue it back on.

[tmnothing]

Use the medium/long spring for velocities around 270-300 and the short spring for velocities around 250. Like impostal22 said, oil your gun like crazy. It sounds to me like you dont have enough oil in there and that's why you're getting the "pfft" noise as if the bolt is obstructed. The longer the spring is, the softer the bolt will be on paint. When you have the longer springs in you need to have the velocity up higher. If you have having bolt stick problems you need to raise it.

[Frank (the spank)]

For a setup like that.... you NEED a dump valve. It's as if you have a 2nd tank on your gun, you need to dump that gas before you remove the tank.

The foamie.. well ytou said 1000 shots, was that dry fire? As said before, make sure the surface is clean before you put a new one on, you are using a NEW foamie right? They're cheap, use a new one of you aren't. Use nail polish remove to clean the bolt before you glue a new one on.

The lvl X is going to be a pain from the start, you're gonna need to tune it.

[xen_100]

problem number one is really not a mag problem. you need something like this to allow you to tottaly empty the xchamber and the valve.

[impostal22]

here are responses to your responses, but anyone can answer if you know the answer!

xen_100: what is that?

frank: what is a dump valve, where can i get one and how much do they cost? yes i used a new foamie, and it was like 20 shots dry fire, 980 with paint. where can i get a new foamie, i don't have any more new ones.

tmnothing: using the longer spring would just cause more bolt stick right? what happened was i chronoed it at 270 with the medium spring, and then i did the squeegee test and it wouldn't stop on the squeegee . where shuold i oil my gun to prevent the constant PFFTing?

than205: i'll look into that, thanks.

EDIT: frank, is this a dump valve? click here

[Frank (the spank)]

Thats it! Slide check... bleed valve.. dump valve.. ya get the picture, hehehe. And that one is only $20, will suit ya well. :)

You can get new foamies from the AGD store, key is to clean the bolt completly and maybe pick up a fresh bottle of super glue. Put a drop on the foamie and quickly spread it all over the surface and stick it to the bolt as straight as you can. Press down on it, and let it dry for awhile. Should last you a LONG time.

[impostal22]

Originally posted by Frank (the spank)
Thats it! Slide check... bleed valve.. dump valve.. ya get the picture, hehehe. And that one is only $20, will suit ya well. :)

You can get new foamies from the AGD store, key is to clean the bolt completly and maybe pick up a fresh bottle of super glue. Put a drop on the foamie and quickly spread it all over the surface and stick it to the bolt as straight as you can. Press down on it, and let it dry for awhile. Should last you a LONG time.

thanks for the foamie help! where's the bleed valve screw into anyway, just in case it doesn't come with instructions?

[ChucktheMAGician]

Originally posted by impostal22
where's the bleed valve screw into anyway, just in case it doesn't come with instructions?

Somewhere inline between the valve and tank. I like mine between the tank and SS line.

[Drizit]

xen_100's setup looks like it would be the most efective if you had a smart valve on the tank, you could then shut off the tank and bleed the whole system. it's going to be a bit more expensive to do then just puting in that slide check that you saw though. and all he has is a slide check on a "T" joint.

put a bit of oil in the ASA before you put your tank on, or unhook the macro line and put it in there. I's say the ASA would be the easyist though.

[impostal22]

Originally posted by ChucktheMAGician
Somewhere inline between the valve and tank. I like mine between the tank and SS line.

if i wanted to get the air out of the x chamber and the stabilizer i should put it after the tank but before the xchamber, right?

[impostal22]

Originally posted by impostal22
here are responses to your responses, but anyone can answer if you know the answer!

xen_100: what is that?

frank: what is a dump valve, where can i get one and how much do they cost? yes i used a new foamie, and it was like 20 shots dry fire, 980 with paint. where can i get a new foamie, i don't have any more new ones.

tmnothing: using the longer spring would just cause more bolt stick right? what happened was i chronoed it at 270 with the medium spring, and then i did the squeegee test and it wouldn't stop on the squeegee . where shuold i oil my gun to prevent the constant PFFTing?

than205: i'll look into that, thanks.

EDIT: frank, is this a dump valve? click here

thought i'd up this so the questions don't get lost.

[xen_100]

the difference with mine is that you dont have any air going through the slide while you fire. slide checks can be a point for air restrictions. they have VERY small holes for th eair to flow through. this solves it. you can just put it in-line too.

[impostal22]

what exactly does the slidecheck valve screw into? and where should it go? does it matter?

also, very important..how would a slidecheck valve work if the co2 tank is still plugged in and flowing when you use it? if the slidecheck JUST lets the air out then i don't think it'll solve my problem, because the co2 tank will keep feeding air when you use the slidecheck. i hope i'm wrong..

[ChucktheMAGician]

Ok I didn't read the first post good enough. Just get one of these and screw it between your ASA and Co2 tank. It will be alot easier to install than the slide check. http://www.xpaintball.com/smarparpreso.html