maybe mags aren't for me- a final plea for help

[xen_100]

Originally posted by ChucktheMAGician
Ok I didn't read the first post good enough. Just get one of these and screw it between your ASA and Co2 tank. It will be alot easier to install than the slide check. http://www.xpaintball.com/smarparpreso.html

that will not bleed that line. all it does is turn the co2 tank on and off.

it depends on how you set the slidecheck up. if you put it inline (hose-slidecheck-valve), then it is going to be on in one direction. when you slide it, it will bleed the valve of air, but it will hold the pressure in the line. You wouldn't even have to take the tank off to clean or service the valve at all.

If you do it like I did, then it will seal up the valve when it is closed and it will vent the valve and the tank in the open position. On mine, I did it for the purpose of bleeding a line on the maxflo tank that I will eventually be putting on this gun. (the maxflo tank has an on/off, but no way to bleed the line.)

[ChucktheMAGician]

All he would have to do is close the valve, shoot it a time or 2 to lower remaining line pressure, and unscrew the tank or valve to bleed the rest of the pressure. I'm trying to find an easier solution to getting the line bled since he's not familiar w/ slide checks. Getting an on/off ASA would be easier too but I wasn't sure what drop/cradle he was using.

[tmnothing]

If you are having bolt stick problems with the long spring, go to the medium spring. If you are having bolt stick problems with the medium spring, go up half a size carrier. A LX runs about 75psi higher than a level7 (an AGD tech told me that) thats why you need to turn up the velocity when you install it.

Now there are always exceptions but you shouldnt have trouble getting your mag to about 270-300 with the medium spring. If you are having bolt stick problems at those kinds of speeds your carrier is too tight. I havn't not extensively used the long spring in my kit, I've got the medium spring (cut) in both of my mags and the minimag I have NO problems with. I keep it around 290fps and I have not had one bolt stick problem (1.0/no shims). The ULE mag I havn't used on the field yet so I have yet to chrono her.

Now you say that you had it at 270fps and the squeegie test wouldnt work. How many shims do you have installed? The AGD techs say that you want to have the least amout of shims that you can get away with (without it leaking). Also dont make the mistake I made when I was installing my first LX. I was doing the squeegie test by putting it in the front of the body (without a barrel) and I thought that the bolt was hitting way too hard but it turned out that the air blast was what was shooting the squeegie out. I put my finger in the breech and it worked like a charm.

[impostal22]

i have included a pic of my dropforward. anyone know if there is an on/off replacement for it? i would just get a dropforward that has an ASA with it, except the way my gun's set up, they wouldn't fit. look at my signature, trent lott is holding basically what my gun is now. see how close the dropforward and expansion chamber are? that's why i don't think any new dropforward would work. but maybe there IS a dropforward w/ an on/off that i could use???

chuck: i'll probably use that if i can't find an on/off assy for my dropforward. if i used that, could i take the tank off then put the attachment in the "on" position and let the air bleed out of the ASA?

xen_100: i'm not really too worried about bleeding the air out because i usually can shoot it out. the reason i'm worried now is because i'm trying to fix the level 10 and i keep getting my bolt stuck so i *CAN'T* shoot the air out.

there is no real reason to get a slidecheck if i can just shoot the air out right?

tmnothing: i'm using two shims. i think my problem is in my o-ring carrier though...and about the squeegee test failing, maybe i had the squeegee itself too far back...i'm not sure. the thing is, though, the bolt sticks BACK not forward.

TO ALL: where should i oil to keep the gun from PFFTing when there's no resistance? would shooting a lot of oil through the ASA do the trick or should i manually oil some things, too?

[impostal22]

pic of dropforwad.. http://www.skanline.com/detail_zoom....+FORWARD+BLACK

[than205]

Every play day I oil the end of the bolt stem (where it mates to the carrier o-ring). And I send some through the ASA.
It does sound like you may need to go up a carrier size.

An option for you would be this:

http://www.smartparts.com/spsmartvalve.htm

[e mag]

i used to run my mini on co2 and it worked fine. my setup was co2 with smartvalve going into a male palmer stab and then to the valve. i never had a problem with liquid co2, but the stab would get very cold. if you have a smartvalve just turn it off when your done, then slowly unscrew the tank while you shoot.

[impostal22]

ok..about the female valve that you screw the tank into...does that always stay screwed into the asa or does it unscrew with the co2 tank?

scroll up everyone, cuz there's lots still not solved

[ChucktheMAGician]

Originally posted by impostal22
ok..about the female valve that you screw the tank into...does that always stay screwed into the asa or does it unscrew with the co2 tank?

It could stay either place you wanted it to. It would probably stay in the ASA if you held the tank while unscrewing. I would leave it on the tank and unscrew it from the ASA. That way it would be just like having a Co2 tank w/ an on/off. Degassing the gun is not as complex as you're making it. After having installed the valve and played some, turn the valve off, shoot a little, and unscrew the valve from the ASA. Unscrewing the tank from the valve would defeat the purpose of having the valve and release more Co2 because you're messing w/ the pin valve again.

[sniper1rfa]

i find the purge valves at the bottom of this page to be very useful. they go anywhere you have a spare port (put it on a T fitting if you dont have anywhere else. you can get the fitting from a hardware store, bring your gun). they just bleed the air when you unscrew the little nob. :)

[bluefan101]

I run CO2 on my mag with the screw on Smart Parts valve. The screw on valve will stay attached to your tank. Make sure you get it on tightly. When you are ready to remove your tank, turn the valve off, dry fire a couple of shots and when there is no more air firing your gun, remove the tank w/valve from your asa. As before mentioned you should have a small hole in your asa, known as a blow off valve, to remove any small amounts of air remaining. Any on/off valve is going to be an o-ring saver. The Smart Parts valve is the easiest and probably most cost effective for your situation.

[impostal22]

that's true chuck, except i don't play on a field, so after a tank runs out of air, i'd wanna take the on/off off and put it on the new tank. would that work..? or will the on/off not remove easily?

ok..away from the damn co2 tanks for now (i'll just get that on/off thing). unless you guys can think of a dropforward that would fit on my gun and not get in the way of the expansion chamber (see sig pic for pic of gun). onto the level 10..

where should i oil to keep the gun from PFFTing when there's no resistance? would shooting a lot of oil through the ASA do the trick or should i manually oil some things, too? than says where the bolt meets the o-rings and in the ASA, anyone else have any ideas?

and will oiling it really stop the bolt from PFFTing?

[bluefan101]

I've actually never oiled my ASA, but you should spend time oiling inside the valve. The blue ring where the bolt meets up is one, not an important one, but why not. The main ones are your
1. on/off assembly. Remove the top portions of your on/off pin leaving only the two o-rings inside. Usually a drop or two of oil makes sure that your pin is well lubed.
2. The small hole markings on your reg. These ensure that your spring pack and reg parts are lubed.
Make sure that you dry fire your gun a few times before adding your barrel or adding paint. Excess oil will be shot out and you don't want that getting in your barrel or getting on your balls.

[impostal22]

Originally posted by bluefan101
The small hole markings on your reg. These ensure that your spring pack and reg parts are lubed.

which small hole markings? oh and does anyone else have a real tough time getting their regulator spring into that little hole?

[ChucktheMAGician]

Originally posted by impostal22
that's true chuck, except i don't play on a field, so after a tank runs out of air, i'd wanna take the on/off off and put it on the new tank. would that work..? or will the on/off not remove easily?

Yeah they come off easy, just like screwing a tank into an ASA.

Originally posted by impostal22
ok..away from the damn co2 tanks for now (i'll just get that on/off thing). unless you guys can think of a dropforward that would fit on my gun and not get in the way of the expansion chamber (see sig pic for pic of gun). onto the level 10..

Buying the SP on/off adapter would keep costs down and save more money for paint. If you wanted a new drop tho a mini or regular Shocktech drop would work and you could get an on/off ASA w/ those. A KAPP stubby would work to and you could offset your tank, something I find comfy:)

Originally posted by impostal22
where should i oil to keep the gun from PFFTing when there's no resistance? would shooting a lot of oil through the ASA do the trick or should i manually oil some things, too? than says where the bolt meets the o-rings and in the ASA, anyone else have any ideas?
and will oiling it really stop the bolt from PFFTing?

I basically oil like than205. A few down the powertube, a few into the ASA, and cycle off a few rounds w/out the barrel so it doesn't get oily! Oiling may stop the PFFT but it may be a carrier problem as mentioned earlier, time and experience will be your best teacher!