maybe mags aren't for me- a final plea for help

[bluefan101]

depending on your valve, you should have two small holes on the back half of your valve. They are inline with each other and each have a line pointing to them with one word in between "oil". In regards to the reg spring question are you referring to the small spring in between the two halves of the valve or the one large one that is inside of the reg body. Speaking of which, you really shouldn't have any need to seperate the two halves on a consistant basis. The same applies to the reg body and reg screw. Any oiling that you need to do should be done with the body as a whole and not as a body in pieces. As far as the lvlx goes and the pfft sound, when you make adjustments to the velocity, you will need to make adjustments to the amount of carriers and shims to account for the change in airflow. When making those changes the valve should still be completely assembled, minus the power tube parts. If you don't have a copy of the Automag video, you may want to look into getting one or at least borrowing it from someone. All of your preventative maintenance is covered in the video. The only thing not covered is how to adjust you lvlx. If you have a group of guys that you play with that use mags, you should each put in some cash and get the vid. It might also help to get together with them everyonce and a while to go over mag stuff. If you are the only one using it on your field, your going to spend a lot of time either on this forum or at a PB shop.

[Koosh]

Re: maybe mags aren't for me- a final plea for help

I read through most all this thread, and agree with alot of you... this is just my two cents...

Originally posted by impostal22

problem #1:
i am running my mag on co2 and it's my only option, so i bought an aci 6 stage xchamber and a palmer stabilizer. macroline runs from the ASA to the xchamber, then to the stabilizer. it's set up correctly, i know that much. here's the problem though..whenever i take the tank off, i think the air stays built up inside the stabilizer and xchamber, and as i take it off it leaks a LOT of air (and the on-off pin on the tank never can turn off). so i take it off and right at the end it like pops off with a LOUD woosh of co2. this woosh sends the o-ring flying back onto the tank threading. i dunno if this has any bad affects, other than the strong possibility of constantly busting an o-ring when taking the tank off. not to mention it's really scary taking the tank off with that loud woosh. i've tried shooting as i take the tank off, but it doesn't help. which leads me to problem #2...

Where is the Ex-Chamber in relation to the stabilizer? Is the Ex-Chamber in the Verticle adapter, and a sideline stab, or somewhere else?

Like the others suggested, I think you just need an On/Off valve on you co2 tank... That way you can turn the tank off, shoot off all the excess air in the ex-chamber and stab, then when the gun doesnt shoot anymore unscrew the tank. You'll still get a little venting, but nothing like what you used to.

problem #2:
i originally had the level 10 set up fine. it worked for an unknown speed, and then i chronoed it around 300 and it stopped working (the bolt would shoot like a normal bolt). so i cranked it down a little, and now the bolt sticks a lot. here's the order of what happens. first the bolt starts shooting like it's hitting resistance (you know the sound), when there isn't any resistance whatsoever. then, after i do that few times, the bolt sticks back and when i pull the trigger nothing happens. so then when i take the tank off i have even MORE built up air in the gun and it ruined at least one of my o-rings. what velocities are the long/medium/small spring meant for? but this problem of the bolt never leaving the first stage of slow movement really is becoming a problem. it always leads to the bolt sticking, too.

I think everyone else took care of this one, but here is my interpretation... The short spring will work best. I took my LX out today and couldn't get anything under 300 without the short spring (yes I was using the largest carrier that didn't leak...). After I put in the short spring, I chrono'ed in at 280, 282, 281 (feild limit of 285) with my co2 fed classic valve... Oh, and lube the heck out of it too... that always helps.

I did have some problems with bolt stick too, but I'm in the process of fixing that myself... After I know what I'm doing I can comment better.

problem #3:
the damn foamie in the bolt flew off a few days ago and i superglued it back on, shot like 1000 shots through it, and then it flew off again. damn foamie doesn't wanna stay on!!!!!!!!

Foamies aren't REQUIRED for the LX. Sure they look cool and feel nice on the finger, but you can run a LX mag without a foamie with no problems...

problem #4:
the mag is becoming a lot of trouble for me but i still love it. playing becomes a very large frustration, though. PLEASE HELP ME!

We're trying! Don't give up yet!

[impostal22]

wow..lots of replies and lots of help...lol.

as for problem #1, i'm gonna get that on/off adapter that you screw your co2 tank into. is xpaintball.com reputable? i've never heard of them and can't find this part on any other website. http://www.xpaintball.com/smarparpreso.html

bluefan: i bought my gun used and the guy "upgraded" to the 8-hole regulator body...are the "oil" holes on the outside of the regulator or in between the valve and regulator? the spring i'm talking abuot is when you unscrew the regulator from the valve and you take the pin out (the spring that is behind that pin..the regulator spring lol). the manual says to clean that spring frequently because it catches particles of crap. but it's really hard to get back into the hole after you take it out... and i'm really not as ignorant about the gun as i think you think i am lol. i've just been having some bad days with it..

koosh: thanks for the help, i'm gonna try all this level 10 stuff once i feel calm and patient enough to. the more info i get beforehand the better though.

it's not over yet, but thanks everyone ahead of time for your help!

[impostal22]

here's pic of my valve...are the circled holes the holes i'm supposed to oil?

[bluefan101]

I didn't mean to sound patronizing. The 8 hole mode would explain a lot. I had questions about those a little while back. In order to keep the reg properly oiled, the original valves had two small holes on the top of the valve. In your case, you will need to unscrew the regulator nut on the back of the vavle and remove the spring pack assembly to properly oil the reg parts. Still only a couple of drops on the spring pack. I've been running my mag for about six months without seperating the two halves. One reason is because you will have to make sure that it reseats properly with the reg o-ring when puting back together. Also, the pin and spring are very important to the functioning of your gun. If the pin gets bent or the spring breaks off, you are going to be down and out. The last time I pulled my spring out I used a small flathead screwdriver, like the one you get with an eye glass repair kit. Be sure that when you reinstall it that it is in all the way. Again, sorry if I sound patronizing, but I'm trying to give you info as if you know nothing, just so nothing gets left out.

[bluefan101]

Correct. those are the holes.

[impostal22]

does anyone think this dropforward will fit on my gun? my gun is what trent lott is holding lol.

[Grasshopper]

Xpaintball deals stuff out fine. My cousin ordered a Tippmann from them a while ago and everything went through fine...

About that drop: I'm not sure if it will fit. I'll be able to tell you today or tomarrow, though, since I just bought one to see how they compare to other drops. You can find it cheaper at DoroPaintball.com though (I think it's $26, and +5 or so if you want the guage). If you want to wait, I'll be able to tell you if the drop will fit within a day or so.

[impostal22]

the catch is i have an aci-6 stage x chamber on my gun, which likes to get in the way..

[bluefan101]

I don't think the holes will line up. The drop is for a Spyder, and most Spyders have their holes at an angle. Mags have their holes inline. This is how the Spyder bottom line installs. Notice that the screws are at a vertical instead of inline like your mag.

[impostal22]

it has both inline and spyder holes, but i think it'll run into the expansion chamber anyway..

[impostal22]

ok grasshopper, i'll wait on the word from you before i decide what to buy.