esencials for mag with autoresponse?

[Koosh]

Don't know about that many sites with info on them, of course I never really looked though

But I do have one of dem dere fancy digital cameras if need be.

Halo-B and warp on a co2 run classic valve... sounds about right to me.



And the rest of the family...

[AkumA]

wow, you guys rule. the kid just got my money order, so i'll have the AR mag soon.

btw, i have looked around the internet for a site that is dedicated to the autoresponce frame. all i've found thats good is g3pb.com's with his benchmark swap.

koosh, you're insane on running CO2, but so cool. proving many peoples statements of 'n2 is better.' i may just end up selling my hpa tank, and get a setup for co2, just because it costs less (fills). btw, what size tank are you using, and how many shots do you get per fill, with what barrel?

[TAW]

Back in the day,when we ran AR frames we had to leave the front frame screw loose. It helped with the problem Tyril is saying about the sear travel. I filed a grove in my rail to give the sear more room to travel and I could tighten my front screw.

[Tyril]

Nice looking guns there, Koosh! That is one sexy mag =) How do you like playing pump? I've always wanted an SL-68II or phantom. Bit easier on the wallet, I'm thinking

Front frame screw loose, mmmmm... I've gotta try that one next time I get a fill. Thanks!

-mike

[askman]

only thing I may add is this. If you have a really old classic AIR valve with grooved on/off, you will want to replace it with newer on/off. This was the main cause for shootdown on early mags. Newer classic valve can easily handle 15bps, while old ones could not. This was the reason why the reactor valve was popular back in the days...

[Koosh]

Akuma: If you have the option of HPA, I'd take that... I only use co2 because it isn't economically feasable for me (HPA fillups are a 30 mile round trip drive, co2 is 4). Despite the measures I've taken (Palmer stabilizer and Anti-syphen tank) The valve will still freeze when I let rip on the AR frame. The tank is a 20 oz, and I usually get about 800-1000 or so before I want to refill it... it can probably go for more, but I'm kinda paranoid about running out of air... When firing slow, I get suprising consistency... I clocked in at 283 281 282 283 282 which is pretty dern good on co2.

As for my pumps, they are the paint-control measure... If during the course of the day I feel I have used too much paint, I just start using the pump. Great way to play the whole day without spending tons of cash. Only the SL-68II is mine, the Black ACI Maverick is actually my friends... but he doesnt really have much use for it while he is in the Marine Corps, so I'm just keeping it company...

Askman: What exactly is the grooved on/off? I think my valve is pretty old (the powertube screws on and off instead of just being welded on), so this grooved/new on/off might help me...

[Nobody077]

Wow , A AutoResponce frame thread:)
On the sear movement, it is a tolerance issue, With mine the sear doesent seam to retract as much on the release movement, causeing a short stroke. To fix the problem on mine I use tape to shim between the rail and valve, to get the proper trigger pull.
I have reached 16BPS over a crono but had a 10-15 fps shoot down, with my "old" classic and a reactor valve.
Do not use a ANS, or other aftermarket bolt with the frame if will eat them like crazy
And use N2, you will very easily freeze your valve with Co2 and a AutoResponce frame

Hay TheFlamingKoosh, if your power tube screws on/off then you have a level 6 valve, I'm not shure if the on/offs are interchangable, you may want to call AGD before ordering.

[AkumA]

have any of you guys minimized the travel or lessen the pull on the trigger?

i just went thru the tech page of the AIR valve. i think i know most of what you guys are talking about. its kinda hard to visualize without something in my hands. i'm a cocker owner :\

btw, for pumps, they're fun. i have a PGP, PMI 1, and a mavric. all fun.

[sneakyhacker420]

Originally posted by AkumA
have any of you guys minimized the travel or lessen the pull on the trigger?

no, never even think of trying to make the trigger pull shorter, you will rape the timing of the on/off and bolt relase, NEVER!!!!!!!


theres a whole thread in the tech forum about this if you would like to see more

[Tyril]

Actually, in an AR frame, it is theoretically possible to slightly lighten the pull of the frame, by finding the perfect spring for your gun. The challenge is to find the lightest possible load spring that will still return the trigger fast enough, and with enough force to reactivate the cam. The stock AR frame spring is actually significantly heavier (at least on my frame) then it is required to be: so long as I do not 'ride' the trigger when it is moving forwards, a lighter spring will fuction in its place and give you pretty much the same results.

I was successful in finding such a spring, last year, while scouring my house for useable items. However, this spring had less 'resilience' to constantly being pulled and loosened, and soon (about 200 shots later) wore out to the point where it failed to return the trigger at all. So I'm stuck with the stock one, which, all be told, really isn't that bad. Best of luck to you if you wish to try!
---------

Shortening the trigger pull I think would be near-impossible. How the cam works is like a rounded lever, with your finger pulling on the short side (trigger). A little bit of motion, with alot more force, apllied to that end is translated into increased distance moved on the other end (the bolt-catch and on/off pin). Look into your body when you get the mag, without the valve, and see that in the first 1/32" of trigger pull the bolt catch has already let go. Now, this allows for some interesting possibilities, as g3pb.com has shown. While I haven't done it myself, it should be possible to convert the AR frame to semi-auto, but with an incredibly short though reasonably heavy pull. Cool stuff, I'd suggest checking it out.


Hope this helps.


-mike

[AkumA]

i just wished that g3pb.com shared more information. i've read it 3 times now, but all the times when it was like 2am.

[Nobody077]

If you want to make it a super short single fire frame I would suggest looking for a brass trigger shoe and soldering a stopper to the shoe. Adjust the length of the stopper for a single shot. Then if you want to go back to AutoResponce mode just switch triger shoes. I did this to mine back in the day to make it field legal, but now no one knows what it is so when I do use it, I get the Crono person to let me Crono my gun and only do single shot pulls.

[AkumA]

i'll order one from palmers, since i dont' have the tools to tap out a small hole.

Originally posted by Nobody077
If you want to make it a super short single fire frame I would suggest looking for a brass trigger shoe and soldering a stopper to the shoe. Adjust the length of the stopper for a single shot. Then if you want to go back to AutoResponce mode just switch triger shoes. I did this to mine back in the day to make it field legal, but now no one knows what it is so when I do use it, I get the Crono person to let me Crono my gun and only do single shot pulls.

hehe, thats what i plan on doing.

[AkumA]

ok so now i have the mag with the AR. i gassed it up, "double" fire was fun. but it leaks. tryied semi, that didn't leak.

so once taking it to the local fields (getting OOoos and AAahhs, and "wow, i havn't seen those in years"), the worker said that it was bc of the auto responce (the airsmith was not on hand).

and like you guys said earlier that i may need to adjust, the "seat"?

[Koosh]

what exactly is leaking? If you hold the trigger back is it leaking? you said in "semi it doesnt leak" so just pulling it half way, or did you get that trigger shoe?