BlackVCG's ULT Thread

[afrankart]

Man, I hope the output of the tank isn't that important, because I have a crossfire @ 750. I will know in a few hours when I get a chance to fill my tank and install the upgrade.

[QUINCYMASSGUY]

setup

Here's my full setup:
ULE body/XValve (both purchased at initial release of them), stock minimag rail, Intelliframe with intellifeed (not like that would affect much), Crossfire steel nitro 68/3000 (the green one). Not 100% on the output, 800 or 850, and never had a problem before with it really. Not like this problem especially and it seemed to really be an issue after a couple hours of playing just yesterday and never before. The weird thing is how sometimes when I turned the air on it didn't even feel like the valve pressurized and pushed the on/off out. Any thoughts?

[HateE]

Originally posted by Jerhew


there's that word again
"shouldn't"
pfft

well if it's still not working you can use level 10 shims...
just remember that they're twice as thick

IS there any other place i could find some shims that would fit seeing as i dont hve a lvl10? Is This something the local paintball store would have?

[speeddemon]

If you don't have level 10 yet, get that before you get the ULT. You will just end up chopping paint.

[Jerhew]

quincy can you maybe get ahold of someone else's tank
preferably an adjustable...
give that a try...
just a thought

i agree with speedemon you should get the level 10 before the trigger kit...
if you don't you'll wish you did

[BlackVCG]

Quincy- Make sure you fully tighten the field strip screw with an allen wrench. Also, make sure the rail bushing didn't fall out when you took apart the gun to put in the ULT.

[speeddemon]

Ok, I messed with my dad's valve again, and I found that he didn't set up his LX quite right. He needs another shim in it. It will reset off of balls, but not a finger. So maybe I was wrong about the LX shims not doing anything. Try adding another one to your LX and see what that does.

[Meph]

Haven't got the ULT yet, but about to in probably 2 days. But very nice job on the report, mucho useful infomation there. Congrats.

[AkumA]

after shooting HateE's marker, it had some "shot down". brought up by the AGD engineers that it would happen.

question, does a valve mod actually help? he has the stock 1 hole, where as i was ripping shots off with my AR frame, and doing fine (Autoresponce, not retro) that has 7 holes, yes 7, i guess they got lazy.

[HateE]

Yea... I dont think its really a shim problem but more of a recharge problem. It shot a constant fps if you shot REALLY slowly, im talking like really slow, like as slow as a one armed dude could fire a pump.

But i dont really know anything so tell me im wrong.

[QUINCYMASSGUY]

BLACKVCG

Thanks for the help guys, I do appreciate it. Here's some more info:

I don't think another Lvl10 shim will do anything, I removed one because if I put pressure on the trigger it would leak. Would being short 1 shim in the Lvl10 actually prevent bolt reset?

I will try another tank when I can but this problem really didn't arise till the ULE trigger.

By rail bushing do you mean the part the field strip screw goes through? I'm pretty sure it's still there. Why would the screw need tightening with an allen wrench? I screw it in real tight and have tried it again and again in case the valve wasn't lined up right or something. No luck.

The thing that confuses me is how it's gone between not gassing up at all to not functioning or the bolt not resetting after rapid fire. What else could cause that?

[speeddemon]

The more I think about it, the only reason that the bolt would stick would be because there was still some air in the chamber, and the vent hole is past the o-ring. If there is no air in the chamber, then the bolt has to reset. The spring is too stiff for it not to. So then there has to be some air in the chamber. And if the number of shims is just right, then it would either vent or sit back far enough for the sear to catch the edge of the bolt.

If messing with shims doesnt work, then I give up.

[tmnothing]

Originally posted by BlackVCG
The only purpose of loctiting it is to keep it from falling out and I figure you can accomplish the same thing by putting a bit of grease on the pin support.

What kind of grease are you talking about? Would it be a bad idea to use that IC2000 adhesive that you recommended for the retro bumpers? Or should I just try to use some of my normal gun oil?

[speeddemon]

Use grease, not glue. If you glue the 2 pieces together, then there could be some more chance of bending the pin.

[QUINCYMASSGUY]

shims

OK Speeddemon, maybe you are onto something, but how would having one few too many shims cause extra air to stay in the valve? That does make sense though, but how would that also cause the on/off to not reset on gas-up too? You might be right, just trying to figure it out? Because I swear I'm getting the issue where too many shims cause leaking if slight pressure is put on the trigger.

I need to fill my tank and then I'll fiddle with this but it's aggravating the hell out of me.

One side question: how precision can Lvl 10's/ ULE triggers be with shims? It seems like you could get it real close to perfect and then by an oring settling a little (not even wearing in, but just settling) or by the rail and body sitting differently, it could throw your timing, go into runaway, etc. Thoughts?

One other curious question: does having a thinner channel for the air to flow through in the on/off reduce the ROF the Mag can keep? OR is the recharge rate for an Xvalve and basic pressure principles result in that at 400psi (chamber pressure) the smaller space for the air to get through has no effect on ROF, just the reactivity?

Just trying to figure out why my Mag is suffering right now, I want to get this bad boy up to peak performance. I appreciate all your help guys.