AO: We are back from the dead... again! After an 18 day outage, we are finally alive and well. Who knew how complicated updating software/databases from 2008 would be. I still have alot of tweaks to make, but my main goal was getting everything patched and updated to 2026.
Vbulletin 6 has changed alot since 2008 so we will have a ton of new features to dig into.
"Classic Valve and ULT trigger don't mix"... my a**(video)
Hey, I have 200.00 CDN and Im getting a level 10 and ULT for my classic.
Anyone have any words of advice for me? Thanks.
Unicorns are people too ...
Old Narhwals are people too ...
Grizzly Bears are people too ...
Caterpillars are people too ...
Baby Peacocks are people too ... lew "My hand was a little shaky and I released too soon."
Well, i guess i should post an update now that i have a ULT in my classic.
Right now i have 4 L10, and 5 ULT shims in the ULT on/off, and man it rips, now since i nearly used up all my L10 shims, that only leaves me with 1 shim for the L10. So until i get more shims for the LTen i will chuff.
The chuffing now only happens excessively if i'm running low on air, i have only tested it with CO2 since i can get CO2 dirt cheap here compared to N2. the 19th of june will be my first time out playing with it, and using compressed air with it so i will be posting to tell if it opperates any differently. As i stated before it only really chufs a lot with low air, this also goes for when i'm freezing the crap outta the valve with the co2. With a warm valve and full co2, i can easily walk it and mabye only chuff 1-2 times within 15 shots which isn't bad for only having 1 shim in the L10.
I don't know where i posted it before but i will quote close to what i have said before
"Worth the $45 from Roguefactor? Absolutly"
"Will I be buying an xvalve? Absolutly Not !!! "
BTW: hopefull i can get a video up soon, i don't know if verizon's server will let me do it but i will see. It stinks when i can't even break through my own firewall to host images and movies from my linux box
i used all my shims that came with the lvl10 and the ULT and i'm still short strokeing so i ordered some more shims and a new sear and we'll see what happenes
Euro E-mag | TL63 | XMOD| EM01610
Euro Rt | OG | RT02382.
OK, I'm not an expert by any means, but I'll give it a stab. Maybe Bad_Dog will step in and help out. My setup works well most of the time, but is quirky. The last time I played the bolt stuck twice (out of 1200 rounds). The time before, it ran perfect. It ALWAYS sticks when my CO2 tank gets low...I know I'm out of air when it does this. Anywho...
Sniper king: How many shims are you running now? More shims may help, post when you've tried them. Also, trigger stops can help short-stroking. I think Bad_Dog has a post on this somewhere. I'm going to do this in the next few weeks.
GordDesigns: You should be able to get way more than 4 ULT shims in there. See the pictures in the previous posts. Make sure you've removed the o-rings from the old on/off. I tried about 4 ULT shims once, and mine wouldn't fire either.
Also, I've noticed some interplay between the ULE Trigger and the LvL 10. If I change the on/off I'm using, I have to re-tune the LvL 10. You all might try different shim and spring configurations with the LvL 10 as well.
Keep posting on how things are going. Hope I helped some.
OK thanks for the clarification of the insalltion of ULT. The little sheet says nothing about removeing the original o-rings before you put in the new on/off.
So what I gather from most of the posts now. Is that the shim stack should almost equal the thickness of the o-rings that were there.
Most guys have got all the ULT shims and three or four LVL10 shims.
So that means about 65 thousands of an inch thick.
If this is the case I will make a .05 shim and use the rest for tuning.
Does this sound right.
Thanks for the help.
Simple thing but without it no hope of getting it right.
Has anyone contacted AGD to tell them these instructions need rewriting.
If I remember correctly, the sheet says to remove the old on/off including the o-rings. I could be wrong, but the old on/off assembly includes the o-rings. You will need all of the ULT shims, and a few LVL 10 shims to make it work properly. If you don't have any extra, you should order more, don't try and make them. Good luck!
P.S. Bad_Dog is in Canada on a fishing trip, so he's not here to help. So you're stuck with me
Thanks and making the shim is a piece of cake. I biuld plastic injection molds for a living and a .05 shim is quite thick if you know what I mean.
Thanks for all the good intensions though.
Oh, well if that what you do for a living, than go for it. I just figured some kid might try and mess with his mag by making his own shim, but your not a kid.
If they work well and are cheap to make, you should try and sell them here on AO.
If I remember correctly, that is an extra o-ring that can be used if the one on the ULT gets lost or broken. I could be wrong, but thats what I remember.
For SILENTDEATH55 thanks for the idea.
Do you think Tom K. would want to buy some off me if I make a big batch?
And another thing I noticed when I took the on/off appart after the first test shooting, the small white o-ring on the top of the on/off had unseated itself. I did some measuring and think that the o-ring is being pushed into the drilled hole in the valve. I am going to make a quick fix with some .005 shim stock and a puntched hole for the pin clearance.
Let you know what happens.
And thanks again the ULT is working fine, and the pull is very light. I think I can keep up to my buddys cocker. ( but speed is'nt everything I can still up a ball on him from further away)
I dont think TK would buy any off of you, but other AO'ers might. The same thing happened to the little o-ring on my ULT. I dont think it's going into the little hole in the valve, but I think it is being loosened out by the rapid flow of air past it. Then when you remove the ULT it just falls out.
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