Can anyone who has done it let me know how they have wired the HA sensor in their Emag to a Morlock board? I would greatly appreciate it!! Thanks.
Wiring HA sensor to a Morlock board?
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Wiring HA sensor to a Morlock board?
All Black Emag
ULE Main Body
A+ AGD ULE NO Rise Clamp
Halo B
Black Evil Pipe Barrel Set
68/3000 FlatlineTags: None
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A little help guys!! I'm certain (well sort of) that some of you are using the Emags HA switch with the Morlock. If you have the Morlock and your not using the HA switch, where did you mount the micro switch? It seems a little tight in the frame for the switch. Getting the HA switch to work seems like a very clean solution.
Anyway, the HA switch that comes with the Emag has three wires. Yellow, red and black. After just a little tinkering it would seem that red and black correspond with power and ground (as usual), and yellow is the pulse signal. I came by this deduction by running voltage across the red and black wires and probing for voltage at the yellow wire. Am I correct here? If so will the yellow wire produce enough voltage/or voltage change to "trip" the Morlocks circuitry in order to activate the solenoid?
I'm half tempted to put the Emag back together again with the stock PCB and check voltages to and from the HA switch in this manner. Once again, any help is appreciated.
Should I try to get ahold of KMM over this?All Black Emag
ULE Main Body
A+ AGD ULE NO Rise Clamp
Halo B
Black Evil Pipe Barrel Set
68/3000 Flatline
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Thanks for the reply. My plan was to put the black wire from the HA switch to a common ground. Run the grey wire from the Morlock to the red wire on the HA switch and run the yellow wire to the black wire on the Morlock (the Morlocks trigger circuit is Grey/Black). This should send voltage to the Morlock everytime the trigger is pulled?? So you have confirmed my plan.
Guess I'll give it a try!!
All Black Emag
ULE Main Body
A+ AGD ULE NO Rise Clamp
Halo B
Black Evil Pipe Barrel Set
68/3000 Flatline
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If you can wait until Sunday, I can give you pics of my Morlock wiring harness.
You can get it backwards and the board will boot and then lock up and not fire.
And wire colors don't really mean anything with the Morlock because you can use whatever colors you want for wiring the different components.
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Using the connector diagram from KM2, I have had success with the following combinations:
#4 Green to HES Red
#7+8 Red and Blue to Solenoid any way- Polarity neutral
#9 Black to Battery -
#10 Red to Battery +
#11 Black to HES Yellow
#12 Grey to HES Black
# 11 and 12 may need to be reversed.
Hope this helps
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Thanks for the replies Tunaman, BlackVCG *and* PUDBUDZ!! BlackVCG, I'd like to see a picture of your Morlock install even with Tunamans great wiring instructions. I made a stand for the Morlock from scrap plastic, and used the OEM PCB's mounts to secure it. Then mounted the Morlock to the plastic stand. The three wires on the Emag hall sensor threw me, the hall sensors I've seen only had two, and I did not pay attention to how many wires there were until I got the Morlock.All Black Emag
ULE Main Body
A+ AGD ULE NO Rise Clamp
Halo B
Black Evil Pipe Barrel Set
68/3000 Flatline
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Just as an addendum, 11 & 12 did need to be swapped!! Other than that it works great. Full auto with a Halo B is soooo cool.
Now to learn how to actually program it!! Thanks again.
All Black Emag
ULE Main Body
A+ AGD ULE NO Rise Clamp
Halo B
Black Evil Pipe Barrel Set
68/3000 Flatline
Comment
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Tunaman, can you translate that #4green to HES RED for me? This is the wiring set up for the Predator Morlock. I think its a little different than the mini. (Not sure)Originally posted by TunamanUsing the connector diagram from KM2, I have had success with the following combinations:
#4 Green to HES Red
#7+8 Red and Blue to Solenoid any way- Polarity neutral
#9 Black to Battery -
#10 Red to Battery +
#11 Black to HES Yellow
#12 Grey to HES Black
# 11 and 12 may need to be reversed.
Hope this helps
1 White (eye +5 volts at 150ma max) short lead
2 Green (eye sig)
3 Black (emitter -) short lead
4 Orange (emitter +)
5 Red (solenoid 2)
6 Yellow (solenoid 2)
7 Red (solenoid 1)
8 Blue (solenoid 1)
9 Black (batt -)
10 Red (batt +)
11 Black (trig -)
12 Grey (trig +)
These are the specs for the Pred morlock wiring connector. On this one, #4 is Orange eye emiiter. Im in the proccess of planning this out and would also like to know where that red HES wire goes.
Thanks
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The new predator morlock lists the #4 as orange which is a +5v regulated supply for the eyes.
The HES requires a 5v supply to operate since it is an electronic rather than mechanical switch.Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.
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Originally posted by athomasThe new predator morlock lists the #4 as orange which is a +5v regulated supply for the eyes.
The HES requires a 5v supply to operate since it is an electronic rather than mechanical switch.
AHhh.. do basically split the wire to the hes and eye?
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I really dont know how to hook it up. I believe you would get a voltage drop if you split the wire and both components were activated at the same time but I am not sure if the voltage drop would be enough to matter. I only used the green wire because it is one one of the wires in the harness that isnt being used. It would be the same (position wise) as the orange wire you speak of. I am sure we could tap any 12v lug on the board and regulate it down to 5v to pick up the extra wire on the HES. Maybe a call to Curt might clear this up.
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I can't get mine to work. The Morlock works fine when I activate it using a standard switch but the HES is not funtional. I tried in back on the original board and it doesn't work there either. I think I fried it, although the connections seem correct and all voltages were proper as well. Does anyone know what the electronic part number is on the HES. I can't read mine. I'd prefer not having to order a new one from AGD due to the high shipping to Canada.
Thanks.Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.
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508 E 1023Originally posted by athomasI can't get mine to work. The Morlock works fine when I activate it using a standard switch but the HES is not funtional. I tried in back on the original board and it doesn't work there either. I think I fried it, although the connections seem correct and all voltages were proper as well. Does anyone know what the electronic part number is on the HES. I can't read mine. I'd prefer not having to order a new one from AGD due to the high shipping to Canada.
Thanks.
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so i made a bracker that has tabs on it to keep it from rotating at the 1 screw.



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