Wiring HA sensor to a Morlock board?

[Banshee23]

K I checked & I have the HES yellow going to #11, the HES black to #12, & the HES red to #4. On the HES itself the black is on top, yellow in middle, & then red on bottom.

[BigEvil]

Anyone??????

[athomas]

That's the same as mine.

[BigEvil]

Thats gotta be it

K I checked & I have the HES yellow going to #11, the HES black to #12, & the HES red to #4. On the HES itself the black is on top, yellow in middle, & then red on bottom.

After checking my ACE on the Xmag... I found that it only needs 2 wires, since the power from the battery runs through the ACE board and out to the main board.

I'm not sure how this would work with break beams, but for the AGD ACE that schematic should do it.

Let me know if anyone else tries it.

[athomas]

I got some HES sensors.

Of note:

I tried 4 different HES sensors until I found one that worked. A couple of Optek sensors had the correct actuating distance but created mad full auto. I found that two different Panasonic hall effect sensors worked. One was a little more sensitive than the other so it allowed the HES to activate farther out, which would be nice if your trigger point is close and your magnet sticks out the back of your trigger too far.

The Panasonic sensor I chose allowed my trigger to function without any magnet adjustment at all. It was a drop in replacement. Who hoo!! I couldn't get a reference sheet on it but I bought it from Digikey. The Digikey# is DN6852-A-ND. The more sensitive one that also worked was #DN6848-ND.

The connections are as follows:

Sensor-facing front; sensor pin1=vcc connected to morlock pin 1(eye+5v) , sensor pin2=gnd connected to morlock pin11(trigger-), sensor pin3=output connected to morlock pin 12(trigger+).

Using this configuration, the HES works fine with the morlock board. I haven't tried eyes, so I don't know how doubling up the feed from morlock pin 1 will affect the HES and the eyes. The proper connection should probably be pin 1 since it is noted as being a +5v supply so it should work fine with eyes.

Hope this info helps.

Edit: part numbers had an incorrect number in there

[athomas]

Update:

I had to use the more sensitive HES. The less sensitive one had too large a hysteresis (I had to release the trigger too far after firing). The more sensitive HES (Digikey # DN6948-ND) is working like a charm right now.

If I hadn't fried my original HES (I don't know how I did it), I am sure it would have worked right off the bat.

[Banshee23]

Just curious why you are using the 5v that's meant for the eye when #4 (emitter +) is also a 5v output? Also solves your question of what to do if you install eyes as you're not tapped into either of those lines.

[BigEvil]

Just curious why you are using the 5v that's meant for the eye when #4 (emitter +) is also a 5v output? Also solves your question of what to do if you install eyes as you're not tapped into either of those lines.

Because you need another 5v to power the HES. The Predator Morlock only has 5v output for the eyes. The problem being that if you use eyes than you need to get that 5v from somewhere. The only other thing I can think of, is to run the 18v to the board, than, at the pin, run another line with a 5v reg on it. That way, you get the 18v you need to run the noid, and the 5v you need for the HES.

Than again, I dont know anything, ESPECIALLY if that will work. Im just talking out of my rear-end.

[Banshee23]

Because you need another 5v to power the HES. The Predator Morlock only has 5v output for the eyes. The problem being that if you use eyes than you need to get that 5v from somewhere. The only other thing I can think of, is to run the 18v to the board, than, at the pin, run another line with a 5v reg on it. That way, you get the 18v you need to run the noid, and the 5v you need for the HES.

Than again, I dont know anything, ESPECIALLY if that will work. Im just talking out of my rear-end.

Yeah break beam eyes muck everything up unfortunately. That's why I'm using the reflective eye I would guess that the 5v reg would work BTW, it's a little bit of a pain but I don't see why there would be a problem.

[REDRT]

My board wouldn't work so i reversed the yellow and blk. Yellow is 12, black 11, I put the red at 1 for the HES.

[BigEvil]

My board wouldn't work so i reversed the yellow and blk. Yellow is 12, black 11, I put the red at 1 for the HES.

Now that its working... how do you like it? Is it a major improvement???

[REDRT]

Now that its working... how do you like it? Is it a major improvement???

I like! BIG improvement!! I would have been happy with AGD 4.xx, but since they don't want to give it up. This little baby was my next choice. Maybe the best choice. Their lose. It is awesome what you can do. Literly you can adjust everything.

[Banshee23]

Just got an answer back from Coolhand on wiring the eyes up. With the reflective eye you need to either jumper the two emitter or eye ports that you aren't using (as the Xmag ACE board has two wires) or you have to wire all four ports to the ACE. I PM'd him back to see if this messes with the HES using one of the 5v ports also, but since he didn't mention any problems in the first PM I'm guessing that it's ok for the HES and and eye component to share the same port. I'll let you know definitively when he PM's me back.

Edit: Got confirmation from Coolhand, splitting into the 5v leads doesn't adversly affect the eyes or the HES, they work just fine off the same line.

[BigEvil]

Just got an answer back from Coolhand on wiring the eyes up. With the reflective eye you need to either jumper the two emitter or eye ports that you aren't using (as the Xmag ACE board has two wires) or you have to wire all four ports to the ACE. I PM'd him back to see if this messes with the HES using one of the 5v ports also, but since he didn't mention any problems in the first PM I'm guessing that it's ok for the HES and and eye component to share the same port. I'll let you know definitively when he PM's me back.

Edit: Got confirmation from Coolhand, splitting into the 5v leads doesn't adversly affect the eyes or the HES, they work just fine off the same line.

I figured that was the obvious solution, but myself and I thing a few others of us werent sure if splitting an eye port would affect either the eye or the HES.

I just got my first Predator Morlock board from Coolhand yesterday that I am going to install in my Angel LED. I have the wiring all planned out and it doesnt look all that difficult, but let me tell you , the diagram that comes with it from TAG leaves a lot to be desired. FIrst thing I couldnt figure out, was WHICH SIDE OF THE WIRE CONNECTOR IS FRONT AND WHICH ONE IS BACK? UGH!!.

If I got this right, when you are looking at the board with the LED facing you, the Grey and black wires should be on the RIGHT

Also, the clear eye is the emitter(black and orange wires), and the dark one is the receiver (white and green wires)

I would think that this would be made a little more fool proof. Oh well, if I blow it up I'll take pics

[athomas]

If I got this right, when you are looking at the board with the LED facing you, the Grey and black wires should be on the RIGHT

You are correct.