Wiring HA sensor to a Morlock board?

[the electrician]

[gib]spiff- nice job man.

no advice on the wiring, but I will say to be careful and not let the back of the morlock rub against anything conductive. I know it can be a tight squeeze in a grip some times. A peice of colored electrical tape (preferably anything but black) makes for a simple, cheap and effective insulator.

also, if you are so inclined as to want to make the wiring a bit more "modular", hirose makes some inline connectors. the DF3 series in two conductor. basically the same as the morlock wiring harness(DF11) only single row. that way you can unplug the solenoid, or switch or what ever you want, from everything else. make for easier installation, tear down, and trouble shooting.

just something to think about.

so what's the top speed on that thing in full auto?

[UpliftedApe]

I know this seems odd but I too am trying to install a pred morlock into my emag and I am having the same trigger problems and I KNOW my hall works, I have tried the orange and the white #4 and #1 respectively, however I do get lights but no firing, I am not sure whats up with the hall sensors. Any advice on this would be appreciated. As a side note one of the wires in the loom was the wrong color in the wrong position I had a black in 9 and 10.

[athomas]

I looked up some different HES parts. I can't find the specifics on our unit but all I have found so far indicate a pinout as such:

pin1 - VDD
pin2 - gnd
pin3 -out

This goes against the colors on the AGD part. So if the above holds true, then:

red = pin 1 = vdd
yel = pin 2 = gnd
blk = pin 3 = out

I don't know if this is correct, but it could explain why I toasted mine. I wired mine thinking red = pos, blk = gnd, and yel = output.

[UpliftedApe]

I have found Tunaman saying in another thread that the hall senor wire colors have changed over time as is evidenced by this data: http://store.airgun.com/index.cfm?fu...&categoryID=24
you will notice the wires from "top" to "bottom" are red,yellow,black. Mine however is red,black,yellow. my emag valve # is EM00532 This model is fairly old as far as emags go, as well as, not having the on off area drilled deep enough to allow a ULT trigger much to my chargrin, (i.e. I bought an x-valve with a ULT installed and liked it better than my emag valve but it limits my working markers to 1 to put the emag on/off and pin into the X-valve, and right now $70 is a bit much right now) however back to the point at hand I wonder about the red's matching up and th yellow and black being interchangable, any comments on this would be welcomed I am sure, by my fellow suffers, with our pred boards sitting in our laps.

[athomas]

Mine is red-black-yellow on the pin connector but on the HES it is red-yellow black.

In the picture of the hes harness, it is red-black-yellow on the pin connector and it looks like the HES is red-black-yellow. This would explain the difference from what I thought originally.

My emag has a sn of 394 so it is one of the earlier ones.

[BigEvil]

I just left a question about this on the TAG fourm. Usually Bob and the guys are pretty good offering advice. Hopefully someone will answer in a day or so.

Here is the link

Wiring a HES to a Predator Morlock

[UpliftedApe]

Why don't we compare how we are wiring our respective setups?

I use the following:
#1 white to red HES
#12 grey to yellow HES
#11 red(should be black) to black HES
#10 Black(should be red) to emag positive power red
#8 Blue to solenoid
#7 red to solenoid
#9 Black to emag bare metal fram

this combination only manages to light up the light on the pred, but not fire it, I have also rotated the HES wires in various combinations to try and make it work with less than wonderful results, mostly sparks I will admit.

[BigEvil]

Hmmmm.....

What if you need the #1 white (eye) for the ACE?
Would I have to tap the 18v off the battery or 12v off the board and reg it down to 5v?
(now the milliion $$ question: How do you do that)

Have patience with me, im learning

Why don't we compare how we are wiring our respective setups?

I use the following:
#1 white to red HES
#12 grey to yellow HES
#11 red(should be black) to black HES
#10 Black(should be red) to emag positive power red
#8 Blue to solenoid
#7 red to solenoid
#9 Black to emag bare metal fram

this combination only manages to light up the light on the pred, but not fire it, I have also rotated the HES wires in various combinations to try and make it work with less than wonderful results, mostly sparks I will admit.

Im wondering if it has anything to do with the fact that the eyes are default "ON" since you are running power out of the eye pin. Maybe turning them "OFF" would help???

Im doing this install on an Angel LED and its not nearly as difficult to figure out. Maybe I will just pay Coolhand to do it.

[Banshee23]

Hmmm, I have my emag working off the HES just fine. You guys got WAAAAY too hung up on the colors that Tuna listed. You can use whatever color wires wherever you want. The HES red wire goes to #4, the HES yellow to #11 & HES black to #12. I can't remember if I had to switch the order of #11 & #12 as Tuna said for it to work as it's not in front of me right now, I'll check when I get home later.

[BigEvil]

Hmmm, I have my emag working off the HES just fine. You guys got WAAAAY too hung up on the colors that Tuna listed. You can use whatever color wires wherever you want. The HES red wire goes to #4, the HES yellow to #11 & HES black to #12. I can't remember if I had to switch the order of #11 & #12 as Tuna said for it to work as it's not in front of me right now, I'll check when I get home later.

Problem becomes how to install it if you use the ACE or Eyes.

[Banshee23]

Get the HES working first then figure it out I'm actually dropping in an Xmag ACE board tonight on mine, only two wires to worry about though.

[athomas]

Its not the wire colors of the morlock I am concerned with, its the color of the HES wires that got me. It appears that some of the emags used a different color scheme, hence some of the installations don't function properly.

[Banshee23]

Its not the wire colors of the morlock I am concerned with, its the color of the HES wires that got me. It appears that some of the emags used a different color scheme, hence some of the installations don't function properly.

I'll have to remember to check on mine what the order of the wires is on the HES too then. I'll have an answer later tonight for you.

[athomas]

It doesn't matter for me right now. My HES is toast. I have to find a replacement part or order a new HES from AGD. I'm holding out for a part replacement because I hate having to pay large amounts of money for a $1.00 part

I will be interested in seeing what the wiring order of the hes pins indicate though. Let us know.

[UpliftedApe]

I haven't had any success using just the microswitch alone to fire the mag, let alone the HES I am getting truly sick of this to where I get to where I wanna start throwing things. This should have been the 20 minutes ordeal yesterday. I have tried wiring thing several different way I broke down and bought aligator clips from radio shack to try different combinations. I implore anyone who has managed to wire in successfully one of the "new" predator morloacks ,which is a mini morlock into their mag to shed some light on the problems we are having, or at least I am having, I plan on contacting coolhand or one of the other installers or asking my local pnall shop if they have the ability.