automag rt

[dixieoutfitter94]

deffinately a drop.....

its simple and not what you were looking for but still.... buy a drop and an on/off.

[snoopay700]

The difference is the banjo bolt, and the fact that the valve fits completely into the body, rather than halfway like a normal mag or an rt pro. Basically an RT Pro is a classic mag with a rail based off of the RT and it has an RT valve made to fit onto a normal mag. Oh, and the front of the body is cut differently from a normal mag, but basically they're the same gun internally.

EDIT: Agh, sorry to tell you man, but you HAVE an x-valve. An x-valve won't fit in your gun, and it's basically an aluminum RT valve that fits into a classic type mag body.

[dixieoutfitter94]

You can put an xvalve in it if you cut the body right?

[snoopay700]

it will if you vut the body right?

Even if you could get it to FIT in there, it wouldn't work, because you would need to put it on it's side so it could get air into the dump chamber because of the banjo bolt, however then the on/off pin would be on the side and would shoot out and it would be all bad. Basically, you can't use any valve other than the original RT valve in an Automag RT.

It's pretty much the black sheep of the group, the odd man out, that's why i like it, it's got charm.

[hillg]

what do you mean that i have one? break that down for dumb ppl like my self

[hillg]

so since the xvavle is out then just go with the lvl 10?

[dixieoutfitter94]

I didnt get it either...

you can put a ULt in that valve right?

[snoopay700]

what do you mean that i have one? break that down for dumb ppl like my self

Ok, AGD produced two kinds of valves, the original AIR valves that are in the 68 Automag, Minimag, 68 Classic, etc. That is the silver valve that we all know and love. Then in 1996 they came out with a new gun with a new valve capable of (theoretically) cycling at 42 times per second, this was the Automag RT with it's RT valve, where it just recharges so fast that it pushes the pin out and makes the gun have a reactive trigger. People didn't like this gun because the american version of the new higher powerfeed was cut wrong or something and they had feeding problems, so they changed it to the body you now have for americans (europe didn't have this problem, don't ask me why, i don't know). People still didn't like the fact that they had to buy a whole new gun just to get that nice little valve that they came out with, so they came out with the ReTro valve which was the same thing as the RT valve but could fit into a normal 68 Automag body. Then they used this same Retro Valve (rebaged with the Emag name) for the Emag. Then people wanted lighter guns, and AGD wanted to keep up, so instead of making only the back half of the RT valves that they produced out of aluminum they decided to make the x-valve and make the entire thing out of aluminum, while keeping the same internals as the RT valve that you have, only the outside is different, so it won't fit in your gun. This is the basic outline of the story, there's more to it, but it doesn't pertain to the valve, so i didn't include it, but basically the main differences between the RT valve and the X-valve are the bodies that they will fit in and the X-Valve (and emag and later i believe) have an extra o-ring which is why they can use the ULT and we RT owners can't.

So basically, they are internally the same valve, yours is just a bit heavier, they haven't come out with a new valve in the past 11 years, largely because they didn't need to, they just changed the exterior of it to suit the customer. If you want an X-valve you're gonna have to cough up $300 bucks for the upgrade, but i personally don't think it's worth it.

EDIT: sorry, just figured the history of it would be simpler than trying to explain it so you could see that they never branched away from the original RT valve really. I would highly reccomend the level 10 though, with my 68 Classic with the level 7 i would break paint because of the bolt all the time (i also had the crappy ANS venturi bolt) and my RT came with a level 10 and i have never even broken paint with it (except for like year old stuff, but it broke in the end of the barrel). It's a good investment, as you'll save money on paint cause more shots will make it to the person.

[dixieoutfitter94]

Ok, AGD produced two kinds of valves, the original AIR valves that are in the 68 Automag, Minimag, 68 Classic, etc. That is the silver valve that we all know and love. Then in 1996 they came out with a new gun with a new valve capable of (theoretically) cycling at 42 times per second, this was the Automag RT with it's RT valve, where it just recharges so fast that it pushes the pin out and makes the gun have a reactive trigger. People didn't like this gun because the american version of the new higher powerfeed was cut wrong or something and they had feeding problems, so they changed it to the body you now have for americans (europe didn't have this problem, don't ask me why, i don't know). People still didn't like the fact that they had to buy a whole new gun just to get that nice little valve that they came out with, so they came out with the ReTro valve which was the same thing as the RT valve but could fit into a normal 68 Automag body. Then they used this same Retro Valve (rebaged with the Emag name) for the Emag. Then people wanted lighter guns, and AGD wanted to keep up, so instead of making only the back half of the RT valves that they produced out of aluminum they decided to make the x-valve and make the entire thing out of aluminum, while keeping the same internals as the RT valve that you have, only the outside is different, so it won't fit in your gun. This is the basic outline of the story, there's more to it, but it doesn't pertain to the valve, so i didn't include it, but basically the main differences between the RT valve and the X-valve are the bodies that they will fit in and the X-Valve (and emag and later i believe) have an extra o-ring which is why they can use the ULT and we RT owners can't.

So basically, they are internally the same valve, yours is just a bit heavier, they haven't come out with a new valve in the past 11 years, largely because they didn't need to, they just changed the exterior of it to suit the customer. If you want an X-valve you're gonna have to cough up $300 bucks for the upgrade, but i personally don't think it's worth it.

EDIT: sorry, just figured the history of it would be simpler than trying to explain it so you could see that they never branched away from the original RT valve really. I would highly reccomend the level 10 though, with my 68 Classic with the level 7 i would break paint because of the bolt all the time (i also had the crappy ANS venturi bolt) and my RT came with a level 10 and i have never even broken paint with it (except for like year old stuff, but it broke in the end of the barrel). It's a good investment, as you'll save money on paint cause more shots will make it to the person.

the average joe would have been way to lazy to type all hat....


can he put a ULT in that valve?

[hillg]

so the rt valve that i have is the same as the xvavle besides that the xvalve is not has heavy? And that the xvavle that AGD offers will not fit into the rt because of its size.

[hillg]

and the ULE will not fit unless i send the gun in and get the rt upgrade that comes with the
"new" xvavle from AGD

[snoopay700]

Dixie, if you read carfully (i know, it's probably hard to see it) i said in short, no he cant'.

Hill, you're pretty much spot on, the back half of the x-valve is larger so it will fit into a classic mag with no problem, and then there's the problem of the air source, because it's in the bottom for the RT and in the side for the x (like a classic mag). If you find a picture of an x-valve and compare it to your valve when you take it out the difference will become obvious.

EDIT: and yes to your second questin, well you can make it fit, but you have to make a custom part, someone on here did it before, but it won't fit on without modding.

[hillg]

the xvalve has the air source on the right side where im working on left side with the rt

[ThePixelGuru]

the average joe would have been way to lazy to type all hat....


can he put a ULT in that valve?

Apparently the average kid was too lazy to read all that...


He can't put a ULT in that valve.

The main differences between the RT valve and the X-valve are the bodies that they will fit in and the X-Valve (and emag and later i believe) have an extra o-ring which is why they can use the ULT and we RT owners can't.

hillg, that's a sweet RT. I thought about picking it up, but my car sensed that I wanted to spend money on something and broke. Poo. Anyway, if I did pick it up, I'd leave it mostly like that, but add an Intelliframe and a different barrel (J&J ceramic, probably). And swap that macro out for a steel braided line, because having a macro line just pop open and vent a tank is lame. Plus stainless steel looks cool. Keep the backout thing going, though, that marker's badass.

[p8ntbal4me]

I dont own a ULE but Im guessing that the reason for the ULE body not fitting the "classic R/T" rail is because the shape of the piece where the frame screw connects to the body.

The R/T classic rail is round where the R/T Pro is eliptical.

In that case you can do another mod that I did to my R/T and that is mill/dremel out the shape for the ULE body.

Really thats what the AGD upgrade kit for the rail and the body is,... the ability to use an X-Valve (so they change the body) and because they change the body they have to change the rail out.

Its not a real big deal to do these things to the R/T. I have a drill press with a compound milling table ($159) and I bought a set of mill-end bits ($99). The dril press you can see in the video of my EP kit,.. I had it in the kitchen!

I used a cut off saw to do the body and some sand paper to get the burs of the ends when I was done.

2 SS bodies and 2 rails,... 30 minutes tops. Pretty easy work.

~ P8nt