I'd say first make sure all your diverter plates are the plastic ones, and how old are the drive orings? Those do need to be replaced. Not saying it is, but it could be user error.
Dry Paint and Warp Feed Problems
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I think there might be something wrong w/ my drive o-ring. When ever there is any resistance, the drive o-ring slips instead of the wheels slipping. This is now happening even w/ lubrication and "regular" shell paint."Relax. Don't worry. Have a Home Brew."
-Charlie Papazian
Feedback: http://www.automags.org/forums/showt...threadid=40134Comment
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hmm lets see i have used
big ball
star
pmi paper balls (which by the way break awesome)
marbalizer
marbalizer seconds(super swirl
great american seconds (which by the way suck)
proball platinum
regular proball
pmi premium
diablo: hellfire, blaze, and inferno
el` tigre
power ball
and last but not least my favorite and yours brass eagle.
all of this in my warp and gues what all of them fed perfectly and nothing went wrong with my warp.good traders- agdmagman2001, magdude25,Geoff Noble, than205, X-plosive, speedball4life, CoFFey[NiTrO], Snakebite78, zads27Comment
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Ityl- I keep up on things quite regularly here at AO.. If there were a new diverter plate available, i'd be sure to have one. As for the belt being worn/bad. I have taken a brand new belt and set it next to my old one.. there was no visual difference. I must say this though. The warp never worked as flawless as the first times I ever used it.Comment
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The oring drive belt slipping is normal. It acts as a secondary backup to the friction disks. If it seems like it slips too much you can swap it for a urethane which will be tighter and provide more umphf.
From the responses I don't see any clear pattern here, need more info keep it coming.
AGDsigpicComment
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What difference is there between the aluminum and plastic diverter plates? Mine has the aluminum one.
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I added this update:
I have some really small orange paint (the free stuff from predator) and it works fine in the warp; the wheels grip enough and slip enough. I also found some pink advantage shelled paint (don't know exactly what). The wheels will NOT slip by this stuff. They grip it hard and won't slip. Hope that helps.
Hey Hitech your starting to sound like me! - AGD
Hitech is the man.... :eek: - Blennidae
The only Hitech LubricantComment
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Can I get the urethane o-ring through AGD? Mine will frequently slip just though the resistance of getting the balls into the breach. I've pushed the feed button and watched the o-ring slip instead of the balls feeding into the breach. No there wasn't already a ball in there. I have the metal diverter plate but I don't see how this could be the problem."Relax. Don't worry. Have a Home Brew."
-Charlie Papazian
Feedback: http://www.automags.org/forums/showt...threadid=40134Comment
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Ran many cases of PMI Premium orange/white white fill and green/white white fill w/no problems other than a worn and loose belt on the warp. Ran PMI Premium pink/grey pink fill as well w/no problems. Same with Diablo Blaze field paint. Never noticed any problem other than the belt slipping way too much to keep the system feeding.Comment
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That's my problem exactly. Were you able to fix it?"Relax. Don't worry. Have a Home Brew."
-Charlie Papazian
Feedback: http://www.automags.org/forums/showt...threadid=40134Comment
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Alright folks...
I've been using my warp a bit over the past few weeks, and my club has a few of them that they've been using for a while on various brands of paint.
First, me, I've shot the challenge park variety of PMI Premium and Polar Ice through it. At first I was chopping like mad, but then diagnosed the problem to not getting enough current out of the emag battery. Switching to a 9-volt solved the problem. The discs NEVER slipped past the paint though. I was using a ricochet with the warp set up to spin on a trigger pull, and spin about 80-90% of a full turn - so if there were gaps (there wern't usually) the extra spin would be enough to fill the gaps on the exit end of the WF.
Next day (this was about three weeks ago) I was shooting big ball with the club - no problem. Still not spinning past, but the richo kept the balls fairly close. One guy in the club was shooting marbs and they were big enough that they were touching the outside of the warp, rubbing against the plastic. This provided enough friction that the warp wouldn't turn at all.
This Sunday I was using the same big ball, and breaking paint all over the place. I'm pretty sure it was the paint, but I plan on verifying that this weekend by buying some fresh stuff. The only difference was I had gone to my largest insert (.695) because of the paint, and was also using a HALO. No gaps in the feeding due to the halo really, but the discs still didn't spin past the paint. Again, I have it set to do about an 80-90% turn with each trigger pull. The breaking did always seem to happen when I started shooting faster though, but I wasn't having any problems the week before. On the other hand, there was at least one instance where the first ball out of the barrel was spew. I really think the paint was just messed up. The paint did break REALLY easily when bounce testing it, so that may also have been a problem.
So, anyway, my summary is my warp discs have never slipped past, but setting the WF to spin a lot with each pull and running a richo or a HALO keeps the balls close enough together that it doesn't seem to be a problem - even if there is a gap, the warp will close it up towards the end. (Although I would imagine this does lead to a delay in feeding the chamber.) Another thing to note given the complaints with HALO's and them force double feeding past the detents in some open bolt markers - that may be enough force to force the ball into the WF discs if there's a gap and close up small gaps.
Actually, now that I think about it, maybe the breakage problem I was having on Sun was BECAUSE I'm doing an 80-90% turn - could be enough force to get that next ball just far enough into the chamber to chop. I don't think that's it though, as you'd expect more problems when firing slow.
And you from the UWM paintball team - go register for the tournaments.
April 6 in Villa Grove and April 27 at CPX. www.register.college-paintball.com
- ChrisNational Collegiate Paintball Association, Inc., President
www.college-paintball.com - "A Club for Every Campus"
www.high-school-paintball.com - "We Create Newbies"
American Paintball Players Association, Director
www.paintball-players.orgComment
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Tom, thanks for following up my threads!
I was using PMI Premium metalic turquiose. It shot fine for about 100 shots, then I noticed double feeding etc. and breakage. It broke about 180 balls out of 200 once the problem started. I have a PTP warp feed with medium dwell.
Going to try the paint in my mag with a Halo, and with an STO (AA, Boomy, and stock), and with an M98 Flatline and stock, to see if it was the paint, or the warp.
thanksAIM 'thlibo'
E-mail [email protected]
my feedback thread:
http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=57863&highlight=thliboComment
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Assuming you were asking about the slipping problem I mentioned, I fixed it by simply changing the belt. I also picked up some extra belts from AGD at the time.Originally posted by TheTramp
That's my problem exactly. Were you able to fix it?Comment

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