Dry Paint and Warp Feed Problems

[LaW]

so we're saying that since they don't slip that they are being pressured into the feed too much and getting stuck right? this is the problem I had as well because of an improper pf plug adjustment... after that the not slipping past them part didn't cause any jams

[MiCRoFooL]

Originally posted by virus
...with batteries that have been used for less then 10 min testing... and i am very sure that this would be less then a case worth of paint...

Were they cheap-o WalMart type batteries or were they Energizer?



When I was ready to throw my equipment in the garbage a couple nights ago... a buddy came up and asked what was wrong. I said the #&$*ing piece of #*&$ warp isn't loading any #$% #$^$ balls. He says "try a new battery." To that I reply "I just put a BRAND NEW straight out of the package battery in." (a cheap-o as mentioned above) "Don't know what to tell you then." he says. I figure, what the hell... so I take a 9 volt Energizer out of my Revvy and stick it in the warp and no *****, the thing works again.

I should mention, when I had the cheap-o's in there, I could see the motor spin, but the propeller wouldn't budge. That's about the same time my high end setup was about to find its' way to the low end of the garbage can.

[virus]

duracells...... idustrial type... i kinda swipe them from work... they get new ones in evey 2 weeks, lots of QA inspection tools where i work run on them and they leave everything on 24/7 excpet when the plant shuts down for holidays (ie xmas newyears july4th turkeyday) otherwise those items are on and in constant use

not sure if i was clear in the last post but when i would put a new battery in after about 1 min the wheels would slow down and eventually stop slipping past the dry paint... unrestrict the flow and it spins just as fast as if there were no paintballs in it.... remember my test was just feeding right back into my hopper and using a microswitch pluged into the warp to activate it.... after i ran the tests i put the batteries back in that didnt have the power to make the disks slip past and hooked everything back up to my mag and firied off all the paint and didnt have any problems with it feeding the marker except for if the hopper did not keep up and i had a giant gap (ie space between the last ball on the output side and the 1st ball on the input side) i was unable to prime the warp as the disks would not slip past the dry paint.... with the slicker paint i did not have this problem as the disk could slip past untill the battery became to weak... but that was visable to the eye as te wheel were sluggish even when the warp was empty.....

[the JoKeR]

Virus-
I had the same problem with my warp, but it would start to happen about an hour into the games. The warp disks would just not slip past the paint. I took the black back plate off and tried it and noticed that the pully was slipping. Got a replacement from AGD (around $1.00 or so) and it now works perfectly. I change the belt before tourneys just to be safe now. I assume that the old belt was just getting a little stretched out. Either way, it works now and I'm happy.

[virus]

for me this was a brand new warp, first time at a field using it.... only thing i did before takin it to the field was the recomened burn in of 10min and set up the jumpers... i'm sure the drive oring in mine was slipping as i could hear the the motor workin but the disk were not slipping...... time to break out the veggie oil for now i guess.... either that or try to talk the fields i goto that only have the dry stuff to get another kind of paint... unlikely but worth a try i guess

[TheTramp]

I'd like to hear Tom's opinion on the drive 0-ring slipping. Should we all just get a bunch of extras and keep replaicing them every 2000 rounds or is there a better fix.

[boggerman]

I am just curious, how many people are using intellifeed and if the i-feed users are having more or less problems than vibration sensor users. It would seem to me that i-feed with the dwell set to feed one ball per pull would eliminate this problem. I just got my warp and have not had a chance to use it yet, so I am very concerned about this issue.

[LaW]

well as it stands at over 4 cases of advantage and no problems my conclusion is that the warp is not the issue here

[raehl]

Some notes on the warp...

First, the disks not spinning past balls isn't necessarily bad. I've shot a lot of paint through my warp and the disks have *NEVER* slipped past the balls. I had a lot of trouble the first day, but as it turns out it was due to me running the warp off the emag battery with a current restricting voltage regulator that was preventing the disks from spinning period. Nice fresh 9 volt battery and I havn't had any trouble (with the warp) since. If the disks won't spin when you have more than 2-3 balls at the output, THAT IS FINE!

Actually, it's probably good, because that means the disks are putting their full force into those last two balls and really pushing on them to get the paint in the hose into the marker. Turn up your dwell a bit (my "shortest" setting still spins about 3 balls worth on a fresh energizer 9v) and if you have gaps in the warp feed, they'll close up as the paint gets closer to the end. (I.e. if your discs spin 6-7 balls worth, and you have a 2-3 ball gap, when you only have 1-2 balls left at the output, the discs will spin past the ball at the output and bring the next balls up and close the gap.)

One thing to watch out for: I have seen paint big enough that it really wedges the discs out *AND* is rubbing against the feed housing itself. So if your balls arn't moving at all, look at the warp feed from the bottom, and if the paint is touching the hard plastic housing, that's probably your problem.

Oh, also make sure your warp is screwed in tight. I was running mind slightly ajar in back to accomodate my not-yet-sanded-down HALO, and that seemed to mess with the performance a bit as well.



Other than that, the only problems I've had have been with the HALO breaking balls in the hopper. Broken three so far in a day and change of play. The mag actually shoots through the breaks pretty well, EXCEPT that one of the times, due to the narrowness of the inside of the HALO feed neck, the goop around the ball falling into the neck was enough to get it stuck, preventing the HALO from feeding any paint at all. (On the other hand, my teammate broke balls in FIVE hoppers, 4 VL's and a richochet, so maybe it was just the paint.) On the upside, when the HALO breaks paint, it just goops up the very bottom of the hopper, it doesn't spread the paint all around the inside of the hopper like the VLs and Richochets do, so it's a pretty easy cleanup job.

I'm debating going back to the richochet for Skyball though - the not feeding balls at ALL is bad. Plus the HALO is more useful to the guy on my team with warp feedless angel since his VL's have trouble keeping up.

- Chris

[Chaos]

my warp never works with hellfire. It always squishes the balls. umm.. they're orange... lol

[the JoKeR]

Originally posted by TheTramp
I'd like to hear Tom's opinion on the drive 0-ring slipping. Should we all just get a bunch of extras and keep replaicing them every 2000 rounds or is there a better fix.

OK, I'm not Tom (or am I??), but I still know what works for me. When the disks aren't slipping past the paint, I wonder if the warp will continue to feed under rapid fire. When I noticed the belt slipping and the disks not sliding past the paint, I had feed problems. The paint wouldn't feed reliably into the gun. After changing the belt, it's been fine now for over 6 cases of paint. I still change to a fresh belt before the tourneys, but then again, I also put in new 9volts at the same time...

[TheTramp]

Are you using the urethane 0-ring or the black rubber one. Tom did say the urethane was tighter.

Sometimes the resistance of simply getting the balls over the lip (they are coming up from the bottom ie. hopper right)is enough resistance to get the drive 0-ring to slip (at this point it doesn't really matter what type of paint I'm using). Like I said, I'll have to try the urethane o-ring and see how it goes.

[LaW]

there shouldn't be a lip the pf plug should be flush... i'll take a pick... i don't think the excess pressure is enough to jam them if the pf plug is adjusted right,

[Cypres0099]

OOOH! OOOH! Call on me!

This is just an idea that wouldn't really work as a fix for the Dry paint problem but I think it would really help, and it would give AGD and opportunity to make MORE MONEY!

Here it goes:

It seems to me that these problems start occuring when the batteries get too low, that and the rubber drive o-ring. Well...... here's what AGD could do to help prevent that problem while making themselves MORE MONEY and saving us money.

In the AGD store they could sell Plainview 9.6v NiMH rechargeable batteries and the charger that charges them to 10.5V.

I think it was BlackVCG that uses them in his warp.

This would not only give it more power to 1. feed faster and 2. drive harder to slip past the balls, but it would also last longer. Even if you wanted to be safe and change them after 1000 rnds it wouldn't be a problem because you could just recharge them after you got home.

If you, Tom, started selling them in the AGD store, or with a package with the warp, it would help people to have a more positive experience using the warpfeed. Not to mention making you MORE MONEY, I think.

Anyway I think that would be a great Idea.

[TheTramp]

When I say "lip" I'm talking about the bottom on the hole in the body that the ball has to roll over when coming up from the bottom of the powerfeed. Sometimes the balls don't even make it far enough for the powerfeed adjustment to be a big issue. They just sit at the top of the hose and don't seem to want to make that last push up and into the breech.

I'll also add that this happens w/ new Energizer and Duracel batteries.