Dry Paint and Warp Feed Problems

[TheTramp]

I was and thanks. I'll give them a call.

[the123]

AGD-- I have been using the plastic diverter plate for ages now. It is the plate with the 'mold goobers' on the sides where the balls contact it.
As for the urethane belt-- would I find this in a mag parts kit? or is it something I should look for elsewhere??

[TheTramp]

I'm not sure where to get the urethane belt (either AGD or a good hardware store probably) but I do know it isn't in the Mag (or RT) parts kit.

[virus]

ok i did a little more testing... went and grab 200rd bags from different sotre here in my area

both normal paint and those witht eh advantage shell

all these tests were done off my marker... just the warp, hopper, microswitch pluged into wrap and my thumb.....

had 5 different types of the advantage shell... pmi/rps wht/purp, red/yellow, magenta/blk marbs, grn/blk marbs, green allstar

all of these feed ok through thte warp... the only problem was the disks would not slip past the balls.... on a side note i ate up 5 batteries on these alone, i would keep testing untill the disks would not slip past, if i were to guesstamate it was approx 700-800 rounds through the warp.... but once i put a new battery in the disks could slip past the balls for a few min. then would not slip past them at all....

as for the other paint i tested with... diablo midnight and blaze, BEpaint, the cheap sheridan stuff walmat has(though i see this stuff disappering being replaced by the BE), zap sport.....

when i tested these i used the batteries from the first series where the disks would not slip.... the disks had no problem slipping past all of these paints untill i killed the battery, ie the wheels were at a crawl at best....

next i mixed them all up....
the warp handled the mix quite well... but when ever there was 4-6 balls with the advantage shell in contact with the disks and i stoped the flow back into the hopper the disks would not slip past those balls... though i really fresh battey would take care of thisbbut after 15 mins of stop and go on the mirco switch and stoppin the balls even the new battery would die out...

my conclusion on this... the advantage shells give a very positive feed with the warp.... how ever after a game or 3 it becomes increasingly difficult to prime the warp with out the aid of a new battery... the used batteries held up fine with the slicker paint and even when the battery was dieing i could still prime the warp... it may have been at almost a crawl but the disks could still slip past the balls (barely but it did)

and with another fresh battery i proceded to paint the side of my garage with 1 very expensive case of mixed paint.... esp. after ya figure in the battery cost.....

oh well... now as to where to get the urathane drive belt.... i already got the veggie oil for the disks.....

[BarryTolar]

Big Ball
Grey Shell,Green fill
Fresh
Around 1200 rounds fired

No problems with the warp (Second time I've used it)

Barry

[MAGS own YOU]

PMI Premium- Orange/Blue Shell, orange fill

PMI Gold- Gator Black

RPS- All Star

RRS- El tigre

4 cases of PMI premium, 2 of PMI, 6 all star, 1 el tigre, no problems what so ever.

[Top Secret]

Yeah, I've got a Smoke Grey Warp/E-Mag and with the Pink Advantage Marbs, I get jams cause the disks won't slide past the paintballs(which BTW killed me at the local tourney). I tried lubricating it with some paint from a broken ball, but to no avail.

[MiCRoFooL]

I was having problems as well... getting very frustrated with my EMag / Warp / Freak setup... but I found out that it was the *****box cheapo Wal-Mart style 9 volt batteries I was using. Once I put Energizers in there... no problems what so ever! Case of balls, not 1 skip or 1 break. I'm happy as a clam.

Word to the wise... BUY ENERGIZER OR DURACELL and then try your warp with your problem paint.

[thlibo]

Used my warp with PMI advantage Premium, and had a new energizer e2, had hella-problems.

[Top Secret]

Is there some fix to this? Everytime it jams, I have to manually poke in a ball, then trigger the warp manually again. Which is like every two or three shots. It's definaly the paint, cause I was testing both Proball and the Advantage crap. Advantage consistantly jammed. Proball fed 200 rounds through with no stops.

[LaW]

you know what guys i had jams too and found out my powerfeed plug was not adjusted right and it was jamming on because it couldn't get past the edge that wasn't covered by the plug, after adjusting it I got it working flawlessly....

[Cypres0099]

Why are there so many extremes with the "advantage" shell? It's either "no they worked great" or "they sucked, every third ball was getting stuck."

Is there something in half of the warpfeeds that causes the dry paint jamming and half without it?

Maybe it's the battery issue. I use only duracell ultra and Energizer E2. (later getting 10.5 V rechargeables)
I change the after about 1000rnds maybe a little more, hence the "later getting 10.5 V rechargeables. Those 2 extra batts add like 6 bucks to a case of paint.

Anyway I haven't had any problems with any dry paint. In fact that's all I use. As I mentioned in an earlier post.

Those of you with problems, how often do you change your batteries?

[LaW]

where are they getting stuck? up in the powerfeed area because I'd blame that on an improper powerfeed plug adjustment (problem that happend to me)

[the JoKeR]

A minor update to my earlier post... I have now run through the following PMI:
Orange/White white fill - about a 7 average on the drop test.
Pink/Grey pink fill - about a 4 average on the drop test.
Green/White white fill - no data on drop test
Yellow/Red yellow fill - about a 2 on the drop test.

No warp problems at all. The yellow/red is currently being "revived" to see if it helps.

[virus]

the issue at hand in not weather they, the paintball are getting stuck anywhere in teh warp or marker... it is the issue of the disks in the warp not slipping past dry paint.... i have found that with as little as 3 balls on the output side of the warp (paint being of the dry shell kind) and the disks will not slip past them.... and these are with batteries that have been used for less then 10 min testing... and i am very sure that this would be less then a case worth of paint...