G-Force frame, not vaporware!

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  • longi
    I love Real Ale alot. Hic!
    • Jan 2005
    • 490

    #256
    Originally posted by Chronobreak
    thanks, lol i figured it out a bit late. hopefully after i recut the line about 1/4 an inch so its not worn as much itl stay on better with the pressure lower.

    the sear adjustment seemed to be my first problem as well as having to slightly undo the top set screw to allow it to close the pressure off fully.

    i think il ahve it rocking tommorow and il get pics up. i got the tickler on the front and with as small as it is its really not much of an eyesore, it blends well and adds that sence of intrigue to the gun

    i agree the grips gotta go, anyone know people doing custom grips? i think if someone gets a pattern to them we can all get some nice grips done, that or maybe luke or someone is interested

    we also have yet to see how many people roughly all togethere and here on AO actualy got frames....
    I think Kruger does custom wood grips. Some of which are truly spectacular. Some os those Aussie hard woods look really nice, i 'm going to ask him if he'll do some for my frame.
    Last edited by longi; 08-23-2008, 03:31 AM.

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    • longi
      I love Real Ale alot. Hic!
      • Jan 2005
      • 490

      #257
      Got my tracking number this morning! Woot! Woot! Woot!
      Last edited by longi; 08-23-2008, 03:43 AM.

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      • Chronobreak
        Rec Poster
        • Mar 2003
        • 5055

        #258
        man, someones gonnahave to help me get this thing going.

        the dam airline keeps popping off the barb, and the frame just leaks continously

        figures im the only one to ahve problems..
        will ion banjo fittings work as a replacement on the stock barb?


        --ion banjo fits nicely and looks alot better as well as being more secure and easier to remove, though i blew the hose open so i gotta go buy more hose now

        took the lpr apart and appears the oring came off of where it was and its a pita to get back on, so much so il probly just go buy another one.

        uhg, frustration
        Last edited by Chronobreak; 08-23-2008, 08:50 PM.

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        • Hilltop Customs
          Registered User
          • Aug 2007
          • 1260

          #259
          sounds either like your lpr is set too high or the lpr is creeping.

          thanks for the info about the ion banjos, ive had a few banjos laying around and never bothered to see what thread they were.

          Comment

          • warbeak2099
            That is my foot!
            • Jan 2004
            • 4447

            #260
            The only problem I've had on mine was some occasional chuffing. Fixed that by turning up the LPR lol. The recharge on the GTA E-Bolt LPR at low psi is not so great lol.
            My Feedback

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            • jade_monkey07
              Cheater Tac one
              • Dec 2006
              • 984

              #261
              Well i got to play with my 2 frames today it was 50/50
              my friend xvalved Gmag rocked house all morning, shoots Fanfrickintastic. But my classic wasnt shooting so good...Had nothing to do with the gframe. i went to the chrono and first shot was a little low so u bumped it up a touch. BEEEEEEP chrono starts whining 360fps!! take a few more shots and it goes back to normal... let it sit for a second again and the first shot reads 490fps!! then back to normal after that. I couldnt get it to calm down on the first shot. checked the reg seat, oiled it back up....did the same thing so i gave up on it, pulled the ol trusty tac one and painted faces the rest of the day.
              what could be causing the creep like that?
              if this was the nation the next 3 posts would tell me to change my dwell lmao..

              Comment

              • insixdays777
                Long Live AGD
                • Mar 2004
                • 857

                #262
                Jademonkey, I would start by replacing the reg seat. It that does not work I would replace the reg spring.

                I need some help also.

                I ran another 500 rounds thru my GMAG.

                I would get the occasional shoot down from my xvalve. it was really strange shoot down like I have ever had with a mag, the bolt would move forward and a ball would fly about 10 feet out the barrel. Next shot/shots where perfect.

                I always thought it was all or nothing with the mag as far as shoot down like that, I know rapid fire shoot down hapens, this would sometimes happen first shot. I mean it is all most like the bot just pushede th ball out the barrel no air comes out? I thought shoot down like that was impossible given the bolt on/off rod releationship? WTF.

                No bolt stick. Can you set the lvl X so sensitive that it will bounce off a properly feed ball or the detent? Could this bee it?

                I cant tell if its my valve or the gframe. I am leaning towards the valve.

                Anyone have any ideas?

                Comment

                • TwilightG
                  www.BigEvilOnline.com

                  • Mar 2007
                  • 1387

                  #263
                  dirty barrel or bad paint/bore match? shortstroke?

                  Personally, I experience the "10ft. shot" every once in a while and given my rof, it's not shootdown. I know that you shouldn't get it but mine is usually caused by either an occasional short stroke or something.

                  I'd keep an eye on it and see how often it happens. It could just be a random 10ft. shot.

                  Comment

                  • Dirge
                    BIGEVILONLINE

                    • May 2004
                    • 500

                    #264
                    After building two Pmag frames, I found that most problems could fixed by your tank reg. The only two I have that work well are Crossfire and Guerilla Air (older Ambush model). If your recharge isn't up to snuff, It won't be able to keep up with both regs and you get shoot down, misfires and an in general lack of reliability.

                    If that doesn't work, adjust your dwell. (just kidding!! )
                    sigpic

                    Comment

                    • Chronobreak
                      Rec Poster
                      • Mar 2003
                      • 5055

                      #265
                      OK ok ok

                      well i got it somewhat tuned in, i tracked down my leak to the msv1, it was leaking very very slighlty outside the top bleed hole. there was ntohing int he manual about this so i took the components out, oiled them anc cycled ema bit, leaked stoped and once again im out of air, so one moer fill outta let me get anymore kinks out, kinda glad ive had so many problems so i can help others troubleshoot better and i can get an honest opinion on how well this product was designed, or not.

                      picked up another tickler real cheap at the local pro shop, the desighn just kinda sucks and micro rocks are rebuildable and likely more consistent so il be buying one of those here soon as well.

                      also got a great deal on a 3 piece otp barrel, man these things were the rage for a while hahaha

                      Comment

                      • Spider-TW
                        U R techno-literate!

                        • Oct 2006
                        • 3554

                        #266
                        Originally posted by azathoth300
                        After building two Pmag frames, I found that most problems could fixed by your tank reg. The only two I have that work well are Crossfire and Guerilla Air (older Ambush model). If your recharge isn't up to snuff, It won't be able to keep up with both regs and you get shoot down, misfires and an in general lack of reliability.

                        If that doesn't work, adjust your dwell. (just kidding!! )
                        On an x-valve, I would suspect the tank too. You may also be experiencing the typical pneumag trip up. You can still "chuff", but you have to be going a lot faster now. If your tank is good, try backing off your overtravel and/or takeup setting on the trigger. If the trigger travel is too short it can be hard to tell that you had a good pull before you try the other finger.

                        It's like adjusting your dwell.

                        Comment

                        • longi
                          I love Real Ale alot. Hic!
                          • Jan 2005
                          • 490

                          #267
                          Last edited by longi; 08-30-2008, 11:31 AM.

                          Comment

                          • Smoothice
                            Registered User

                            • Nov 2006
                            • 4579

                            #268
                            it was a sad sad day today for me.

                            I have 2 things to say then I will go into detail.

                            I LOVE the performance of this frame

                            BUT

                            The design is completely

                            Story:

                            So because I have not found a permanent home for my gforce frame yet I have not epoxied the sear extender to the sear. I am using a classic rail so this would require me to break the epoxy seal if I wanted to change to a rt rail.

                            Gripe #1- You are unable to remove the sear from a classic rail with the sear extender still attached.

                            So I mount up the frame with just the screw holding the sear extender to the sear. After a bit of firing the frame starts acting funny. It won't shoot for a few trigger pulls and then it will shoot for a few and then back to nothing again. Every trigger pull I can hear the ram moving.

                            So I open up the frame and the sear extender has come off the sear. The little screw had backed it self out all the way from the vibration.

                            Gripe #2 - I think even if epoxy had been applied that little screw may still vibrate out.

                            So now I need to find a nut to put on the other end of the screw. I would rather break a little blue loctite then have to break the epoxy off the sear.

                            So here is the video I made before all hell broke loose. I wasn't on my A game with walking the trigger but she still shot a classic valve like it was an electro.

                            Comment

                            • Dirge
                              BIGEVILONLINE

                              • May 2004
                              • 500

                              #269
                              I am also running a temporary set-up. Try some paper shims until it's tight and a little lock-tite in the screw. I have over 2000 shots and it hasn't come out.

                              On that note.......I Love this thing!

                              And yes It's not pretty. I dose look better than a Hyperframe at least (better made too).
                              sigpic

                              Comment

                              • Smoothice
                                Registered User

                                • Nov 2006
                                • 4579

                                #270
                                Originally posted by azathoth300
                                I am also running a temporary set-up. Try some paper shims until it's tight and a little lock-tite in the screw. I have over 2000 shots and it hasn't come out.

                                On that note.......I Love this thing!

                                And yes It's not pretty. I dose look better than a Hyperframe at least (better made too).
                                The sear I am using is incredibly tight fitting. I will try a little locktite and see how that works.

                                Comment

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