AO: We are back from the dead... again! After an 18 day outage, we are finally alive and well. Who knew how complicated updating software/databases from 2008 would be. I still have alot of tweaks to make, but my main goal was getting everything patched and updated to 2026.
Vbulletin 6 has changed alot since 2008 so we will have a ton of new features to dig into.
thanks, lol i figured it out a bit late. hopefully after i recut the line about 1/4 an inch so its not worn as much itl stay on better with the pressure lower.
the sear adjustment seemed to be my first problem as well as having to slightly undo the top set screw to allow it to close the pressure off fully.
i think il ahve it rocking tommorow and il get pics up. i got the tickler on the front and with as small as it is its really not much of an eyesore, it blends well and adds that sence of intrigue to the gun
i agree the grips gotta go, anyone know people doing custom grips? i think if someone gets a pattern to them we can all get some nice grips done, that or maybe luke or someone is interested
we also have yet to see how many people roughly all togethere and here on AO actualy got frames....
I think Kruger does custom wood grips. Some of which are truly spectacular. Some os those Aussie hard woods look really nice, i 'm going to ask him if he'll do some for my frame.
man, someones gonnahave to help me get this thing going.
the dam airline keeps popping off the barb, and the frame just leaks continously
figures im the only one to ahve problems..
will ion banjo fittings work as a replacement on the stock barb?
--ion banjo fits nicely and looks alot better as well as being more secure and easier to remove, though i blew the hose open so i gotta go buy more hose now
took the lpr apart and appears the oring came off of where it was and its a pita to get back on, so much so il probly just go buy another one.
The only problem I've had on mine was some occasional chuffing. Fixed that by turning up the LPR lol. The recharge on the GTA E-Bolt LPR at low psi is not so great lol.
Well i got to play with my 2 frames today it was 50/50
my friend xvalved Gmag rocked house all morning, shoots Fanfrickintastic. But my classic wasnt shooting so good...Had nothing to do with the gframe. i went to the chrono and first shot was a little low so u bumped it up a touch. BEEEEEEP chrono starts whining 360fps!! take a few more shots and it goes back to normal... let it sit for a second again and the first shot reads 490fps!! then back to normal after that. I couldnt get it to calm down on the first shot. checked the reg seat, oiled it back up....did the same thing so i gave up on it, pulled the ol trusty tac one and painted faces the rest of the day.
what could be causing the creep like that?
if this was the nation the next 3 posts would tell me to change my dwell lmao..
Jademonkey, I would start by replacing the reg seat. It that does not work I would replace the reg spring.
I need some help also.
I ran another 500 rounds thru my GMAG.
I would get the occasional shoot down from my xvalve. it was really strange shoot down like I have ever had with a mag, the bolt would move forward and a ball would fly about 10 feet out the barrel. Next shot/shots where perfect.
I always thought it was all or nothing with the mag as far as shoot down like that, I know rapid fire shoot down hapens, this would sometimes happen first shot. I mean it is all most like the bot just pushede th ball out the barrel no air comes out? I thought shoot down like that was impossible given the bolt on/off rod releationship? WTF.
No bolt stick. Can you set the lvl X so sensitive that it will bounce off a properly feed ball or the detent? Could this bee it?
I cant tell if its my valve or the gframe. I am leaning towards the valve.
dirty barrel or bad paint/bore match? shortstroke?
Personally, I experience the "10ft. shot" every once in a while and given my rof, it's not shootdown. I know that you shouldn't get it but mine is usually caused by either an occasional short stroke or something.
I'd keep an eye on it and see how often it happens. It could just be a random 10ft. shot.
After building two Pmag frames, I found that most problems could fixed by your tank reg. The only two I have that work well are Crossfire and Guerilla Air (older Ambush model). If your recharge isn't up to snuff, It won't be able to keep up with both regs and you get shoot down, misfires and an in general lack of reliability.
If that doesn't work, adjust your dwell. (just kidding!! )
well i got it somewhat tuned in, i tracked down my leak to the msv1, it was leaking very very slighlty outside the top bleed hole. there was ntohing int he manual about this so i took the components out, oiled them anc cycled ema bit, leaked stoped and once again im out of air, so one moer fill outta let me get anymore kinks out, kinda glad ive had so many problems so i can help others troubleshoot better and i can get an honest opinion on how well this product was designed, or not.
picked up another tickler real cheap at the local pro shop, the desighn just kinda sucks and micro rocks are rebuildable and likely more consistent so il be buying one of those here soon as well.
also got a great deal on a 3 piece otp barrel, man these things were the rage for a while hahaha
After building two Pmag frames, I found that most problems could fixed by your tank reg. The only two I have that work well are Crossfire and Guerilla Air (older Ambush model). If your recharge isn't up to snuff, It won't be able to keep up with both regs and you get shoot down, misfires and an in general lack of reliability.
If that doesn't work, adjust your dwell. (just kidding!! )
On an x-valve, I would suspect the tank too. You may also be experiencing the typical pneumag trip up. You can still "chuff", but you have to be going a lot faster now. If your tank is good, try backing off your overtravel and/or takeup setting on the trigger. If the trigger travel is too short it can be hard to tell that you had a good pull before you try the other finger.
I have 2 things to say then I will go into detail.
I LOVE the performance of this frame
BUT
The design is completely
Story:
So because I have not found a permanent home for my gforce frame yet I have not epoxied the sear extender to the sear. I am using a classic rail so this would require me to break the epoxy seal if I wanted to change to a rt rail.
Gripe #1- You are unable to remove the sear from a classic rail with the sear extender still attached.
So I mount up the frame with just the screw holding the sear extender to the sear. After a bit of firing the frame starts acting funny. It won't shoot for a few trigger pulls and then it will shoot for a few and then back to nothing again. Every trigger pull I can hear the ram moving.
So I open up the frame and the sear extender has come off the sear. The little screw had backed it self out all the way from the vibration.
Gripe #2 - I think even if epoxy had been applied that little screw may still vibrate out.
So now I need to find a nut to put on the other end of the screw. I would rather break a little blue loctite then have to break the epoxy off the sear.
So here is the video I made before all hell broke loose. I wasn't on my A game with walking the trigger but she still shot a classic valve like it was an electro.
I am also running a temporary set-up. Try some paper shims until it's tight and a little lock-tite in the screw. I have over 2000 shots and it hasn't come out.
On that note.......I Love this thing!
And yes It's not pretty. I dose look better than a Hyperframe at least (better made too).
I am also running a temporary set-up. Try some paper shims until it's tight and a little lock-tite in the screw. I have over 2000 shots and it hasn't come out.
On that note.......I Love this thing!
And yes It's not pretty. I dose look better than a Hyperframe at least (better made too).
The sear I am using is incredibly tight fitting. I will try a little locktite and see how that works.
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