the "pneu" Emag (idea)

[Chris Nearchos]

I was refering to that in regards to the selctor switch. If the E-mag was made E-pneu that's pretty much the only mode you can use. If it is just pneu it is the same.

If it was left stock you have mech and E mode.

I know you were and so was i. like Hilltop said, i was refering to being able to have mech mode with a EP setup. Yes, it took a little thinking on how to do it, but its able to be accomplished very easily. So the end result would be giving the same firing setup as it is on the stock Emag with the selector switch.

just need to think outside the box a bit guys.

-Chris

[Chris Nearchos]

Ive said the same thing many times I can think of a pretty easy way to make one out of a halo and warp, but the ball capacity will be low.

just an idea for you since you have access to milling. If you can create the mold needed for your unishell, i would be more then willing to produce them for you. since i have the access to plastic.

-Chris

[Hilltop Customs]

just an idea for you since you have access to milling. If you can create the mold needed for your unishell, i would be more then willing to produce them for you. since i have the access to plastic.

-Chris

Have to see what I can do.....I could make rubber plastic resin molds myself pretty easy from an epoxied body/halo. Dont have access to college machines anymore so injection molds are out of the picture at least for the moment.

If someone has a warp they dont want anymore and doesnt mind letting it go cheap LMK

[Ratt]

Have to see what I can do.....I could make rubber plastic resin molds myself pretty easy from an epoxied body/halo. Dont have access to college machines anymore so injection molds are out of the picture at least for the moment.

If someone has a warp they dont want anymore and doesnt mind letting it go cheap LMK

Are you looking for a nice, pretty warp? Or does it matter if it is beat up, dyed, but works?

[Chris Nearchos]

Have to see what I can do.....I could make rubber plastic resin molds myself pretty easy from an epoxied body/halo. Dont have access to college machines anymore so injection molds are out of the picture at least for the moment.

just to give you a heads up. Try at all cost to get a metal mold setup. (aluminum or steel). its really only the way to do such a thing. From what i learned at a medical plastic factory i worked at and from my own mold making with my charger blocks......metal is the way. gives you a nice clean surface for the mold and can very easily be cleaned up.

working with wood, rubber, plastic molds bring many problems. from easy wear of using the mold to sometimes just not being able to get the design/shape out of thoes types of molds.

the other big thing i want to pass along as a heads up is the thickness. I highly suggest to not go beyond the thickness anywhere in your out come plastic piece of a 1/4". thats one big problem i have with my charger blocks with their thickness. it is extreamly hard to get the right outcome in plastic (density/hardness) when working thick. and half the time the results turn out very bad and just becomes a wasted supply/product.

-Chris

[Hilltop Customs]

I know just what your talking about Chris, I made quiet a few of the rubber molds be4....deformation can be a big problem with them, combined that with wear and tear and the soft/pliable molds are really only good for few casts depending on the material your casting.

I'm kind of curious to see if a halo could push a vertical ball stack if the catch cup is changed to push balls out through the battery compartment area(kind of hard to describe). Its tough to tell if a warp will even be required for something like this, a halo might produce enough ball stack pressure to account for the height change between a bottom mounted hopper.


Ratt, I'd just want it to work, condition wouldnt really matter to me. I'm going to give a friend a call, he has one and I havent seen him use it since I sold it to him....if he still wants it I'll post something up in BST and give u a pm.