Pneumag Questions

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  • om3n
    pm's more than posts
    • Nov 2008
    • 438

    #1

    Pneumag Questions

    So I have decided I want to up the ROF of my mag. Right now I have an xvalve and a ULT on/off, and I also have an RT on/off. My tank outputs 800 psi (can't rt on 800 psi); I have an i-reg, and I am looking for a 1000 psi output piston for the ireg so I can start rt'ing.

    So this is what I am wondering; what happens when you try to RT with a pneumatic frame? Is it even possible?

    I just watched pneumagger's video below on youtube, and it looks to me like this mag is going true fully automatic. How is this done with a pneumatic frame? Is there a way to make a pneumatic frame fully automatic at all?

    Thanks guys

  • rawbutter
    Registered User
    • Feb 2007
    • 1463

    #2
    That video wasn't a "look at what I can do with my pneumag" video. It was a "what the crap is wrong with my pneumag" video. Pneumags aren't supposed to do that. I know I saw pneumagger explain it once, but I don't remember what the problem was.

    Pneumags don't/can't go full auto. That's not what they're designed for. Mine is so freaking sensative that sometimes it shoots out two shots for one pull, but that's more of a happy accident that I haven't figured out yet.

    If you want maximum rate of fire, just find a higher output piston or whatever and have fun with the RT. It's a lot cheaper than a pneumag. People do the pneumag conversion when they want high rate of fire but are not allowed to use the RT effect (like at most public fields).

    Comment

    • om3n
      pm's more than posts
      • Nov 2008
      • 438

      #3
      Originally posted by rawbutter
      That video wasn't a "look at what I can do with my pneumag" video. It was a "what the crap is wrong with my pneumag" video. Pneumags aren't supposed to do that. I know I saw pneumagger explain it once, but I don't remember what the problem was.

      Pneumags don't/can't go full auto. That's not what they're designed for. Mine is so freaking sensative that sometimes it shoots out two shots for one pull, but that's more of a happy accident that I haven't figured out yet.

      If you want maximum rate of fire, just find a higher output piston or whatever and have fun with the RT. It's a lot cheaper than a pneumag. People do the pneumag conversion when they want high rate of fire but are not allowed to use the RT effect (like at most public fields).
      oh ha ha

      ok thanks for the reply- When looking at this video, the comments and the title led me to believe it was a pneumag modded for full auto fire. Thanks for the clarification... the field I want to start playing at doesn't allow rt either, so I was considering buying a used pneuframe for using at that field anyways, and I wasn't aware if you could make a pneu frame automatic or not. For now I'm going to be looking for a 1000 psi output piston though... to start out with at least.


      I now understand.

      I wish I could find someone who uses a pneumag just to try it out... since I'm using a q-loader, I'm not sure if I want to use full auto right now anyways because of how fast I will run out of paint with only 100 rounds. If I could use get a pneuframe and learn how to walk it perfectly, that might work better for me, I don't know.

      Comment

      • Mongoose
        VenomousDesigns.com

        • Nov 2006
        • 1593

        #4
        Originally posted by om3n
        oh ha ha

        ok thanks for the reply- When looking at this video, the comments and the title led me to believe it was a pneumag modded for full auto fire. Thanks for the clarification... the field I want to start playing at doesn't allow rt either, so I was considering buying a used pneuframe for using at that field anyways, and I wasn't aware if you could make a pneu frame automatic or not. For now I'm going to be looking for a 1000 psi output piston though... to start out with at least.


        I now understand.

        I wish I could find someone who uses a pneumag just to try it out... since I'm using a q-loader, I'm not sure if I want to use full auto right now anyways because of how fast I will run out of paint with only 100 rounds. If I could use get a pneuframe and learn how to walk it perfectly, that might work better for me, I don't know.
        Come down to tunaball and you can try out mine

        Comment

        • om3n
          pm's more than posts
          • Nov 2008
          • 438

          #5
          Originally posted by mongoose
          Come down to tunaball and you can try out mine

          I'm sure I could just look this up, but what sort of ROF do you guys get out of your pneumags?

          Comment

          • crazyjoe12

            #6
            where do you normaly play at? im also from michigan and one of my mags is Pnue'd. If your not too far i would not mind letting you test it out.

            Comment

            • om3n
              pm's more than posts
              • Nov 2008
              • 438

              #7
              Originally posted by crazyjoe12
              where do you normaly play at? im also from michigan and one of my mags is Pnue'd. If your not too far i would not mind letting you test it out.

              I play woodsball at my house actually

              I know it may seem lame, but seriously me and a bunch of my friends have our own course set up and that's where we normally play. When we don't play there, we play at Hell Survivors. I want to go there at least 3 or so times this summer; I couldn't go to day of the rangers, but the next big game I plan on going too. But we play usually every 3 weeks at my house.

              Comment

              • MKing
                Registered User
                • Nov 2008
                • 32

                #8
                That's not lame at all. My favorite days are on private property with friends. Of course you can set your own rules too (such as rt being legal).

                Comment

                • Spider-TW
                  U R techno-literate!

                  • Oct 2006
                  • 3554

                  #9
                  If you take a mag that is already working with RT and pneu it, you can usually set the lpr so that the ram can ride the sear for you and you'll have a full auto marker. It is not a reliable operating pressure for the lpr / ram and you can end up with no shot or multiple shots when you pull the trigger.

                  It's pretty pointless, since you had a working RT to start with, but it is kind of interesting as an experiment. I know a guy that would reset his lpr by making his mag run in RT then add about a quarter turn above that.

                  Comment

                  • om3n
                    pm's more than posts
                    • Nov 2008
                    • 438

                    #10
                    Originally posted by Spider-TW
                    If you take a mag that is already working with RT and pneu it, you can usually set the lpr so that the ram can ride the sear for you and you'll have a full auto marker. It is not a reliable operating pressure for the lpr / ram and you can end up with no shot or multiple shots when you pull the trigger.

                    It's pretty pointless, since you had a working RT to start with, but it is kind of interesting as an experiment. I know a guy that would reset his lpr by making his mag run in RT then add about a quarter turn above that.

                    So you can take a mag that RT's, pneu it, and it will act fully automatic because it will sort of act like an autotrigger if it's tuned correctly, right? That was actually my original question... I wasn't sure, but I thought it was possible. Is that indeed what your saying?

                    Comment

                    • Spider-TW
                      U R techno-literate!

                      • Oct 2006
                      • 3554

                      #11
                      Originally posted by om3n
                      So you can take a mag that RT's, pneu it, and it will act fully automatic because it will sort of act like an autotrigger if it's tuned correctly, right? That was actually my original question... I wasn't sure, but I thought it was possible. Is that indeed what your saying?
                      Yes. You're setting the pressure to equal the tension you would put on the trigger with your finger. However, if it couldn't RT before being pneu'd, it won't RT after.

                      The problem is that lprs cannot compensate for changes like you might with your finger. The guy that I saw tuning his classic RT pneu by RTing first said he had tried to play that way once and he had to keep adjusting the lpr on the field. It is the same thing, but you're trying to sweetspot with a wrench instead of your finger. Depending on the condition of your on/off and other things, that first trigger pull can be harder than the tension needed to RT. You can't kick start your RT with an lpr.

                      The combination of a good RT setup and pneumatics is kind of a waste and begs to be two different mags. It actually spawned two other mags in my house (three mags from that adventure including the original pneu).

                      Comment

                      • om3n
                        pm's more than posts
                        • Nov 2008
                        • 438

                        #12
                        Originally posted by Spider-TW
                        Yes. You're setting the pressure to equal the tension you would put on the trigger with your finger. However, if it couldn't RT before being pneu'd, it won't RT after.

                        The problem is that lprs cannot compensate for changes like you might with your finger. The guy that I saw tuning his classic RT pneu by RTing first said he had tried to play that way once and he had to keep adjusting the lpr on the field. It is the same thing, but you're trying to sweetspot with a wrench instead of your finger. Depending on the condition of your on/off and other things, that first trigger pull can be harder than the tension needed to RT. You can't kick start your RT with an lpr.

                        The combination of a good RT setup and pneumatics is kind of a waste and begs to be two different mags. It actually spawned two other mags in my house (three mags from that adventure including the original pneu).

                        Well I think i might just have to buy a pneu frame for my gun. I am already pm'ing someone who is selling theirs

                        So what do I have to do to the sear/rest of the mag in order to use the pneuframe? Do I just pull the arm off the sear and slap on the pneu frame or is there more too it? The frame I'm looking at already has an lpr and asa, so I don't have to assemble those. I'm sure I'm going to have to tweak the lpr of course- how would I best go about doing that? should I keep the pressure as low as possible- what do I need to know before I get started with this pneu frame, if I do indeed buy one?

                        Comment

                        • gunangel
                          AGD Pride
                          • May 2005
                          • 285

                          #13
                          you'll have to pull the sear celvis and trigger rod out if it's a drop in type frame. you will of course need to purchase and install the pneumatics if it doesn't have them. you want the frame to be running as low as possible for three big reasons. one is to not blow the pneumatics/hosing, the second is to keep the amount you leech from your tank at a minimum, and the third is the input pressure of the lpr has a very large effect in how hard it will be to pull the trigger (relatively of course).

                          actually you can replicate that full auto effect fairly easily, it just depends on the sensitivity/consistency of your lpr, length of trigger rod, and how bouncy you have your mag set. i had both my rt valve with an rt on/off do that and my x-valve with the ult do the same. with my x-valve i've even isolated a response type mode and a multi shot mode (2-3), but i was running the almighty ccm lpr for those feats.

                          max ROF usually no more than 10 when i play. i have played with it and had it go up to the insane 30+ with a 950 input, missing top o-ring, and pneumatically controlled full auto, pretty neat but scary at the same time lol

                          Comment

                          • Spider-TW
                            U R techno-literate!

                            • Oct 2006
                            • 3554

                            #14
                            Originally posted by om3n
                            Well I think i might just have to buy a pneu frame for my gun. I am already pm'ing someone who is selling theirs

                            So what do I have to do to the sear/rest of the mag in order to use the pneuframe? Do I just pull the arm off the sear and slap on the pneu frame or is there more too it? The frame I'm looking at already has an lpr and asa, so I don't have to assemble those. I'm sure I'm going to have to tweak the lpr of course- how would I best go about doing that? should I keep the pressure as low as possible- what do I need to know before I get started with this pneu frame, if I do indeed buy one?
                            You usually want the lpr as low as possible. Start with it backed out a lot and then increase until the sear trips and then add a quarter turn or so.

                            Search the tech forum for pneu and pneumag, and check out the various problems people have. A lot of times you may blame the pneumatics, but the problem is often the typical mag hang-ups. Knowing what problems are not from the pneumatics cuts your troubles greatly.

                            For a ready built frame, watch for the sear clearance. Treat the sear / ram like you would the trigger-rod / trigger and make sure the sear is allowed to come all the way forward. It's best if the ram hits the sear near the bottom to keep the lpr set low, but it seems to work a little higher up as well. If you get too high the sear may not clear anyway. Those are the two most common problems, I think.

                            Be aware that you can still chuff a pneumag. I could never run and walk a pneu trigger at the same time.

                            Comment

                            • om3n
                              pm's more than posts
                              • Nov 2008
                              • 438

                              #15
                              Originally posted by Spider-TW
                              You usually want the lpr as low as possible. Start with it backed out a lot and then increase until the sear trips and then add a quarter turn or so.

                              Search the tech forum for pneu and pneumag, and check out the various problems people have. A lot of times you may blame the pneumatics, but the problem is often the typical mag hang-ups. Knowing what problems are not from the pneumatics cuts your troubles greatly.

                              For a ready built frame, watch for the sear clearance. Treat the sear / ram like you would the trigger-rod / trigger and make sure the sear is allowed to come all the way forward. It's best if the ram hits the sear near the bottom to keep the lpr set low, but it seems to work a little higher up as well. If you get too high the sear may not clear anyway. Those are the two most common problems, I think.

                              Be aware that you can still chuff a pneumag. I could never run and walk a pneu trigger at the same time.
                              So are they very finicky systems? I would be buying a pneu'd frame (intelliframe), so in case it ever screwed up on me I will always have my stock intelli as a backup.

                              Would I be better off using the ULT on/off or the RT on/off? I do have both

                              Comment

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