Has anyone tried a Warpless Warp setup?

[Warwitch]

Yeah one of the major issues with force feeding is getting the angles right. A little tweaking left or right on the copper 90* fittings has dramatic effect on how well the paint feeds. I may try another setup using 45* fittings instead.

[PaintballEngineer]

Wonder if we could get someone to make special Halo/Reloader shells. That and a board set up for Intellifeed would do it. Just have the shell set up to mount up to Luke's warp mounts.

That could eliminate the need to melt or cut holes in your hopper

[crudeidol]

That is basically what Warwitch did for his TM-15. He put halo guts into a new box though.

thanks. you just convinced me to get another A5.

ON TOPIC: I am very interested to see where this conversation goes. I'm gonna do a bit 'o thinkin on it and get back to you.

[maniacmechanic]

thanks. you just convinced me to get another A5.

ON TOPIC: I am very interested to see where this conversation goes. I'm gonna do a bit 'o thinkin on it and get back to you.

thats wierd the on topic part only came up when I hit reply ???

So what convinced you to buy an A5 , the mod is on a TM-15 ( a mini in a milsim body , that WW did a awsome job on BTW )

[onecaribou]

Okay, so it's 1 am, but with the time change it feels like 2 am. I can't sleep and I've been turning ideas over in my head. One of them is that of a Warpless warp, and I was wondering if anyone has tried it.

I think it would work pretty well, and running a warp setup without an extra pound and a half would be very nice. Let me know what you guys think or if you have any other ideas that would make this work better.

Thanks.

Here's a How-To I put together for an ATS Box Mag project that I posted late last year over at MCB. It uses the same ammo box Warwitch (and Leopold Stotch, and others) used. Since ATS are mag fed and this one utilizes a forward loader it's got an extra crazy tube running through it.

http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/ats/60725-85-boxmag-how.html

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Be sure whatever hopper you use is force fed. I had great luck with the Reloader B.

Let me know if you have any questions. It's easier than you think.

[cockerpunk]

Yes but you have a much larger stack and your squishing more balls together = more problems with bad paint.

its also is much slower feeding at any given force due to F=MA

[Watcher]

One major flaw in the halo design would be the fire signal. You'd need to intellifeed the hopper you use, or use a sound activated system, especially since the hoppers don't have something the warp did have: Friction discs that could "slip".
If the motor keeps getting fire signals and trying to torque the ballstack, it could burn out. In the other direction, it can misfeed.

Another problem, is the orientation of the freeway. Since on a Halo the freeway is on the right side, leaning right would allow the hopper to feed until empty. However, leaning left would make it so that only half the hopper and some change could be fed, from then on balls would roll down away from the feedneck as the feed-wheel attempted to pick them up. Yet again why the friction discs and a normal agitating hopper are a major advantage.


I think the warp can be made smaller and more powerful, say, half the size. A smaller wheel means it would feed slower off the stock motor, but a beefed up motor and larger battery pack could allow it to feed just as fast if not faster.


A mini-warp would be cool, it'd weigh less, it'd be less "bulky" (not that I find the normal warp bulky in any way), and it'd have all the same advantages the normal warp does.

[cockerpunk]

i think the proper way to do this would be instead of the mid-step of a hopper adapter like the warp, just go with a one part design, a loader that instead of feeding out the bottom, feeds up and out.

perhaps some kind of screw system with a catch tray at base. that would minimize the force the balls, and get them up to the breach easily.

[PaintballEngineer]

If the mini warp/hopper combo came to be it could be called the black hole!

ok maybe not the best name but whateer

[FutureMagOwner]

Watcher is right about a standard HALO B, I attempted this myself and I'll give you my two observations. The eyes are not a good method for this type of setup, its very unreliable. I've switched to a sound activated board and now I am waiting on money to have a prototype shell made to house it. The second is that if you modify the feedneck from a halo, prepare for some issues with jams. Although it may have been the crappy paint I was trying to test it with.

I was wondering if people would be interested in a next generation warpfeed. I also wondered how much money I'd actually be able to realistically sell it for because its probably going to be high because I wouldn't be able to make a super huge run atleast on a first time around.

[p8ntbal4me]

So, this is kind of something I was thinking about as far as a mounting bracket. It would move the hopper up a little bit and you could run the hose without it sticking too far down below the gun. I have no idea how accurate the drawing is, but it's a start.

What you have pictured here I have done. I ran into a problem where I had my measurements of the mounting system made off somewhat which caused the ball stack to jam in the mounting block just below the feed neck.

My design used the warp bracket and an added milled block of 6061 to hold the hopper on the top and drop the balls out the bottom.

The hopper was attached to the block with an angel feed neck on the top, and the warp hose with a feed neck on the bottom.

The hopper used was a reloader b2. It has enough hose to push a stack of balls 25 from the down angle to the breech. There was problems with the anti jam software in the hopper, and the amount of paint I was trying to push.

The feed tube needs to come out of the hopper at a 90 as soon as possible,... I will tell you that right off the bat.

~ P8nt

[Petti the Yeti]

hjkgfd

[Warwitch]

Since no one else is going to mention it: The Halo/Reloader B is ideal. Using the RF chip will eliminate any feeding issues with eyes/mics.

[BigEvil]

You can tie a peice of that super hose in a knot and it will still feed. If you are going to try something like this, get some of that hose.

[vf-xx]

i think the proper way to do this would be instead of the mid-step of a hopper adapter like the warp, just go with a one part design, a loader that instead of feeding out the bottom, feeds up and out.

perhaps some kind of screw system with a catch tray at base. that would minimize the force the balls, and get them up to the breach easily.

Dual belt drive. I Prototyped this idea back in college. Still have it hanging around.

It doesn't work, but that's due to my lack of machining abilitity, not design flaws.

If you've ever run into rubber lego tank treads, if you get them spaced right they work perfect. They're soft, they nubbs can catch a ball enough to push it, but if they're sized right, they can also 'slip' past a ball if there's a jam.

I'll try to take pictures at some point. I know I posted some YEARS ago.