Need beta testers for efficiency inserts

[hill160881]

Yes but I have not herd back from tuna yet. Otherwise I will get some aftermarket.

[Storminnorman]

Last time I tried to find that oring it was impossible. It seems they were not a standard size.

[hill160881]

I have done several classic valves and have not damaged the oring yet. So those testing the classic will most likely not need it.

There is an update in the first poast on how to get into a classic valve's shot chamber.


Here is the source to buy the shot chamber oring. Mcmaster-car only sells them in packs of 100

http://www.theoringstore.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=368_12_36&products_id=1798

[redlaser666]

I would be willing to volunteer a clasic.

[GEE TEE]

Thanks for the update on the classic

I think it's well beyond what I can manage DIY without trashing a valve

So I'll bow out, pull up a comfee chair and watch the thread with interest

[hill160881]

Here is how to get into the X-valve. I used the tools that most people will have available. Take your time and go slow.

Here are the tools minus a bench vise.
Adjustable pliers, a strip of plether and a vice


Clamp like this. Clamp it snug but dont over do it. Also use E-tape on the area the pliers will bite.

Now here is the hard part. Get a firm grip and slowley unscrew it making sure the pliers dont slip. Take your time and redo the tape if you are concerned about scratching the SS.




If you are lucky you will not destroy the red oring. Once you are done you need to clean the thread lock off both threaded areas and you will not need tools to get into it again.

[TOTShadowCompany]

***Puts another bag of popcorn in the microwave...

[sbpyro]

For the x valve

It seems a strap wrench would work very well.

[hill160881]

I tried several strap wrenches and they did not have enough torque.

[Justus]

So you don't have to apply heat to get the powertube off the X-valve? I thought that was a requirement, and that's why the red o-ring was trashed every time?

[my automag]

I had no problems with using strap wrenches, but I also "BOILED THE X-VALVE" first.

I boiled the water, then put the X-Valve in for 3 - 5 minutes, (NO REGULATOR attached and other remaining internals emptied out also, just in case).

If you clamp one end of the valve into a vise carefully, (NOT the power tube end) it makes it allot easier to put a good torque on it with one strap wrench.

You can also leave the air fitting attached, it can aid a better grip with less clamping force applied to the valve if you set it up right in a vise .

You can also wrap a couple elastic bands around it to get an even stronger grip with the strap wrench.

There was NO DAMAGE to the red o-ring at all, and NOT A SINGLE dent or scratch on the metal valve parts.

After that make sure to pick and clean off really good the old locktite that is on there from factory, before you re-assemble the two parts back together.

[hill160881]

Thanks for another way to get into the valve.

Also the oring I linked to earlier is the right one, i got 20 so the beta inserts will come with an oring

[Pneumagger]

OK... after crying a bit for some of those valves here is the best way to take them apart so there are NO marks.

Xvalve: Use a lathe with a 63/64" collet chuck. The collet chuck grips the entire OD of the powertube base leaving NO galling or gouging that wrench may leave. Lock the head of the lathe and just tist the valve body with your hand... it will unscrew smoothly using nothing but hand pressure and the factory oring will be just fine.

Classic: Use a 1/2" collet to grip th powertube. Once again, no gouging or galling. Using a Kenametal "Thinbit" or similar parting tool (thinbits can be .030" in width or smaller) just clean the weld out of the weld groove. You can do this so that you only remove weld and no actual valve material. Then just unscrew the powerube like normal.

Now what I want to know is where to buy more xvalve powertube tip orings? I think they're M22x1 or M22.5x1 silicone orings. Both my xfactory valve orings were intact and functional after removing and reinstalling them several times... unfortunately I just plain lost one of them.

I think these are two possible replacements, although they are Buna-N... which shouldn't make a difference in immediate operation.
I can't find red silicon orings that match though.

http://www.theoringstore.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=368_12_36&products_id=1798

http://www.theoringstore.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=368_12_36&products_id=1799

[hill160881]

I just got 20 and tested them and they are the right size So you found the right ones.

http://www.theoringstore.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=368_12_36&products_id=1798

The classic valve I broke into was messed up to start with. It had plier marks all over it to begin with. That is a much better way(your way) to remove the power tube though, but i tried to demonstrate it with the tools everyone would have or have access to.

[Pneumagger]

I just got 20 and tested them and they are the right size So you found the right ones.

http://www.theoringstore.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=368_12_36&products_id=1798

The classic valve I broke into was messed up to start with. It had plier marks all over it to begin with. That is a much better way(your way) to remove the power tube though, but i tried to demonstrate it with the tools everyone would have or have access to.

What, everyone doesn't have access to precision lathes with collet heads?

Next I'll bet you're going to say thy don't have access to hard-vacuum electron beam welders or CNC TIG welders to properly reassemble their Classic valves! Absurd!!