New R/T Mag Owner

[WholemealDrop]

So after my foray into cockers I decided to see what mags were all about. Traded for an R/T mag and should be here by the end of the week. Any tips for a new comer to the mag community?

[C_losjoker]

Hide, lock your wallet or give it to your wife.

Drop some oil in before screwing in the tank, if airs up no leaks get out of the field to have fun.

[ScottyBeans]

Does it have a lvl 10 bolt?

[Levi]

Classic RT or RT Pro?

If its the classic RT, get a parabolic powerfeed plug if it doesn't already have one.

[WholemealDrop]

No idea what bolt system it has. Previous owner hadn't used it in awhile. It is a classic RT. Did a little reading and saw about the powerfeed plug. Will have to get one.

This is what I got from the seller as a picture.

IMGP1256_zpsc4037869.jpg

[flampaint]

Hide, lock your wallet or give it to your wife.

how very true!

[Cyco-Dude]

it probably wouldn't be a bad idea to pick up an rt parts kits as well while you're at it. to get the most out of those you'll need high pressure output from the tank. a ninja shp regulator on the tank would turn this into a machine gun; i think 950-1,000 psi would do nicely. just don't go too nuts with it or you can chip the sear. the rt classic sear has carbide inserts, and while it is hard and resists wear, it's also brittle and can chip.

[WholemealDrop]

Most fields around me limit BPS to 10-15 I think so a normal Ninja tank will do fine for me, plus I don' want to invest in a new tank/reg. AGD still the best place to get parts?

If I end up liking this I will likely upgrade to something else. Always liked the look of PTP stuff.

General mag questions:
1. What is an RTP sear?

2. Compatibility differences? I know some frames have "wings" vs. flat top but anything else to keep in mind? I think I read that a Classic R/T mag will only work with Classic R/T parts (body, rail, etc.)

3. What does a on/off on a mag do?

4. What does the ULT and powertube spacers really do?

5. Why is everything so dang expensive?

[blackdeath1k]

Although most fields cap markers. Mags tend to fall thru the cap since they are not electronic markers. From what I've seen. As long as you don't cause an issue hosing opponents. No one will ever say a word about your mag.

[WholemealDrop]

And I'm one of the few that don't hose people without reason.

6. Any special type of oil to use or regular paintball oil like Gold Cup good enough?

[ScottyBeans]

Most fields around me limit BPS to 10-15 I think so a normal Ninja tank will do fine for me, plus I don' want to invest in a new tank/reg. AGD still the best place to get parts?

If I end up liking this I will likely upgrade to something else. Always liked the look of PTP stuff.

General mag questions:
1. What is an RTP sear? RTP = RT Pro, and is like your RT but compatible with mainstream automag parts. The sear is the part that holds the bolt back and also operates the on/off

2. Compatibility differences? I know some frames have "wings" vs. flat top but anything else to keep in mind? I think I read that a Classic R/T mag will only work with Classic R/T parts (body, rail, etc.) Classic RT bodies, rails, and valves will only work with classic RTs. Other Mags are fully modular. The classic RT has a gas thru rail that most mags don't have, so the rear screw is actually a banjo bolt

3. What does a on/off on a mag do? The on/off seals the chamber off from the regulator, so that the same amount of air is used each time you shoot. That's my understanding, anyways.

4. What does the ULT and powertube spacers really do? ULT makes the trigger pull lighter. Not sure what powertube spacers are really there for, but someone here will

5. Why is everything so dang expensive? not sure but it's worth it

And 6- regular paintball oil is perfect.

[vintage]

RTP= RT Pro--the RT sear is a different shape than the classic sear do to the difference shape of the bolt face and all RT's must use an RT sear to prevent wear.

the RT classic is a one off design, only RT classic parts will fit with exception of a couple of things. the wings refers to the grip frame that fits the old classic mag rails. all RT classic thru current ULE rails are flat on the bottom and take grip frames without wings

the on/off uses a pin that pushes the sear back to reset the trigger, it also shuts off air flow from the back half of the valve to the front, it is the source of most leaks in a mag as the o rings wear or get trash on them, the o rings are easy to change(anywhere on a mag) when needed. on an RT mag the pin length can be altered to affect the amount of RT effect you get but that is not always needed or wanted.

ULT stands for ultra light trigger which is supposed to lessen the trigger pull, it also will reduce the RT effect i'm told. the easiest way to get a softer trigger pull is to use a double trigger frame.

the power tube spacer goes in side the power tube on the classic valve to take the place of a tension spring, what it does is position the bolt in the correct spot to prevent leaks, if the bolt is too far back or too far forward it power tube will start to leak.

expensive compared to what? personally $1200.00 for a LUXE or a Dye Dam is nuts. compared to some of the newer markers which are made overseas yes they can be a little expensive. the Mag market is not near as big as the markets for the newer markers and with the design of some of the parts it takes a lot of time to mill the parts and that adds cost. the Mag and Cocker are the classic car of the paintball marker industry and like all toys they cost a little more.

welcome to the addiction that is the Automag

[vintage]

Scotty Beans covered it in less words than I could.

somehow while I was typing all that I was logged of the forum and had to start all over.

[Runamok]

same happened to me but you guys have it covered. Don't think you haven't bought a fine gun. The RT mag paved the way for some great markers.The design is over 20 years old and still scares the piss out of electro users . And it's still one of the best. Air tool oil is the same thing and easier to get.

[Cyco-Dude]

Most fields around me limit BPS to 10-15 I think so a normal Ninja tank will do fine for me, plus I don' want to invest in a new tank/reg. AGD still the best place to get parts?

either agd, or tunamart, or ansgear for some common things.

1. What is an RTP sear?

is it the sear that comes in newer rt pros, ule automags and tac-1 automags, and is fully compatible with the automag rt classic.

2. Compatibility differences? I know some frames have "wings" vs. flat top but anything else to keep in mind? I think I read that a Classic R/T mag will only work with Classic R/T parts (body, rail, etc.)

you are correct, the rt classic is it's own beast. the rt classic valve, body and rail are all meant to go together, and are not compatible with other automags. frames with wings are meant for classic automag rails, and will not fit rt classic, rt pro, emag or ule rails without having the wings milled off.

3. What does a on/off on a mag do?

controls the flow of air within the automag valve.

4. What does the ULT and powertube spacers really do?

the ult on/off reduces the pull weight of the trigger, at the expense of a lot of the reactivity the stock rt on/off has. the ult on/off is not compatible with the rt classic and older rt pros without having the valve milled to accommodate the ult. powertube spacers go in the powertube and are used with lvl 7 bolts. they come in different sizes and adjust the point at which the powertube o-ring seals against the bolt stem. the longer the powertube spacer, the further back on the bolt stem the o-ring sits. the shorter the spacer, the further up the o-ring sits, which can cause excess friction. you really shouldn't have to worry about this; as long as you have a spacer you're good to go. most of my automags have a .215 or .220 spacer in them.

5. Why is everything so dang expensive?

this level of craftsmanship and quality are not cheap. there is a reason 20-year-old automags still work today, with just a change of a few o-rings and / or a few drops of oil in the asa.

as for which oil to use, any synthetic oil is fine.