One Legged T-Rex (OLTR)
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Just wanted to post this for the record before I forget, zulubravo44 had the classic valve with the kickazz trigger pull. His package just went out today (per his request) perhaps he can post up the information on the valve after he tests it out. I'm curious to see what he thinks about the build.
Ailia, also had a Classic setup that was a sweeter than zulubravo44's. I really dug this marker all around.
Last edited by luke; 05-16-2015, 09:41 AM.Leave a comment:
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"So whos frame?"
I believe that is mine and I can not wait to coon finger it. Lol
Last edited by Stedspitcher; 05-15-2015, 10:30 PM.Leave a comment:
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The trigger pin is a non machined part that just slides into the front of the T-Rex. It's an off the shelf 1/8" x 3/4" dowel pin. You can make a custom length one that will allow you to use your safety.
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I only had about 1200psi in my tank, dry fired a little bit and ran a few balls thru it before I ran out of air.
classic valve with regular on/off. never fired a pneumag before but i thought it ripped. I went with luke's frame and LPR. nice trigger pull. I did have to adjust trigger in so can not use safety. I have a classic twistlock body so I can use the manual powerfeed safety.
Only tank I have is old centerflag output is 800 i think. almost out of hydro so ninja shp will come soon.
I have a rt on/off i can play with as well. also have xvalve with ult. I can try all these combos, unless it rips as is might just have too much fun playing!
will report back after it's been to the field.Leave a comment:
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For posterity sake we need a roll call to know where the original 12 ended up, after all I heard from a good source that in 25 years these will be "highly collectible"
. So if you have one of the 12 post up your number and maybe a pic of your build
-grubLeave a comment:
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(In jest) That of course is not possible, seeing how I know the inside scoop to everything I'm doing today, tomorrow and the following week. All opinions are relative to ones own knowledge of any given subject, right or wrong as it were. LOL
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Although I think you're kind of putting the cart before the horse in this case, this is really not the thread or place to muck up (seems I do that around here sometimes. . . I don't mean to. . . Honest!) recycling the old, at this point I think to everyone worn-out discussion of market dynamics. So, I'll put the brakes on here, as I started it.>>>
OK, so right now I'm not specifically charging for the mounting tab, but if I could presale 25 OLTR's and 25 installs in the M86 and customers were willing to pay for a more complex mount (more difficult to machine) that made allowances for the hidden reg do you suppose I could fill an order?
<<<
In any case, one really can't argue with free and not look the fool for it
. So, as I really don't have a stake in any of this, I'll again as graciously as I can bow out.
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For those of you that are using Classic valves, are you using a regular on/off or a RT on/off.Leave a comment:
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The current mounting tab is basically free, a fancy tab that requires more complex machining would not be free. It remains to be seen if anyone would be willing to pay the price of the OLTR, a "fancy mount" plus frame machining to make it all work.If the mount would bolt to the top two threaded 6-32 holes,
then trim the lower mount hold off the mount plate as I described in my sale thread a LPR would fit into the frame..
I designed it to work with the ideal Fabco mounting first but also a secondary mounting position that allows LPR fitment after modifying the frame.
So whos frame?
I'm certainly not saying it can't be done, I'm only saying that I doubt there would be support at the additional costs.
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If the mount would bolt to the top two threaded 6-32 holes,
then trim the lower mount hold off the mount plate as I described in my sale thread a LPR would fit into the frame..
I designed it to work with the ideal Fabco mounting first but also a secondary mounting position that allows LPR fitment after modifying the frame.
So whos frame?Leave a comment:
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Funny, I feel the same thing about the trigger, trigger rod and the use of a the safety. I just ordered the Anker Trigger, since that design is more of my style with my fat fingers. Minor adjustment to a great product IMO.Here is a video I made this morning, I have no idea why it is in this orientation, does anybody know if there is a way to turn it through Youtube? I'll rotate it at some point over the weekend and reupload it if I can't do it through Youtube.
In the video I'm using a tank with a Ninja reg that is outputting about 800psi. I don't know what the LPR is set at.
A few notes;
- I'm primarily a pump player and couldn't walk a trigger to save my life. I think the trigger shape isn't helping me either.
- I did adjust both trigger set screws to take up most of the pre/post travel.
- I have the LPR set about as low as it can go to make the OLTR function, this seems to give the lightest pull.
- If I put on my SHP tank which outputs about 1000psi I can get it to RT like mad with the LPR set at this setting. I think it is actually easier to control the RT with the OLTR than with a standard setup.
- At this point I prefer to use it with the 800psi tank. So far I've shot a 68/4500 at 800psi and a 88/4500 at 1000psi, most of this was dry firing.
- At 800psi with a .750 on/off pin I'm not getting a lot of RT effect but it makes the trigger the easiest to walk.
- Personally I'd prefer to have a slightly longer trigger rod, maybe 1/8th or 3/16th, and will probably buy a rod and make my own. I only say this because I like to use the safety. With the current trigger rod you have to either not take out the pre travel so the trigger can go all the way forward or not be able to use a safety. For people who don't use a safety you shouldn't have any issues.
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