One Legged T-Rex (OLTR)

[Ailia]

Just tried it with my X valve, getting straight full auto. Definitely interesting. As lancecst says though, the trigger shape really is quite hard to walk, seems to handle much differently than my Tunablade even though they seem quite similar.

Edit: This thing seems to really amplify the traits of whatever valve its paired with, almost a completely different marker with an overactive RT X, vs an ult X, vs an old classic on-off vs a newer classic. The old style classic on-off seems to work oddly well. The overly active RT just goes full auto unfortunately.

[luke]

Just tried it with my X valve, getting straight full auto.

Increase the input pressure from your LPR and the full auto will diminish.

[luke]

I think I will end up getting a different trigger as I find it hard to walk the trigger that is on there but that is a personal thing. I can't really walk a trigger anyways so it may just be me. I'm going to shoot it more tomorrow and if I have time start to tune it a little.

Yes, the trigger makes a BIG difference for me, the Anker trigger is my favorite because it does not crowd the trigger guard.

[luke]

Just finished my first Intelli build a few minutes ago.

[BLachance75]

2 questions;

I'm guessing that turning the LPR-RG adjuster out will lower the pressure, is that correct?

Is the only way to lighten the magnet to adjust the trigger stop? I'm pretty sure I already asked you that but I forgot.

[luke]

2 questions;

I'm guessing that turning the LPR-RG adjuster out will lower the pressure, is that correct?

Yes, out to lower the pressure

Is the only way to lighten the magnet to adjust the trigger stop? I'm pretty sure I already asked you that but I forgot

There are 2 magnets, remove one or both, they don't add a significant additional pressure though.
Decreasing the input pressure will help some.

There is a on/off valve assembly return spring inside the T-Rex. I chose this spring based on the complaints I read about the original cheater.

[jame4091]

So Cool, Can't wait to try it out.
Luke sure does know the meaning of turn around time. (1 week- super fast)
Now if I could just get my anno guy to do the same.

[BLachance75]

Here is a video I made this morning, I have no idea why it is in this orientation, does anybody know if there is a way to turn it through Youtube? I'll rotate it at some point over the weekend and reupload it if I can't do it through Youtube.

In the video I'm using a tank with a Ninja reg that is outputting about 800psi. I don't know what the LPR is set at.

A few notes;
- I'm primarily a pump player and couldn't walk a trigger to save my life. I think the trigger shape isn't helping me either.
- I did adjust both trigger set screws to take up most of the pre/post travel.
- I have the LPR set about as low as it can go to make the OLTR function, this seems to give the lightest pull.
- If I put on my SHP tank which outputs about 1000psi I can get it to RT like mad with the LPR set at this setting. I think it is actually easier to control the RT with the OLTR than with a standard setup.
- At this point I prefer to use it with the 800psi tank. So far I've shot a 68/4500 at 800psi and a 88/4500 at 1000psi, most of this was dry firing.
- At 800psi with a .750 on/off pin I'm not getting a lot of RT effect but it makes the trigger the easiest to walk.
- Personally I'd prefer to have a slightly longer trigger rod, maybe 1/8th or 3/16th, and will probably buy a rod and make my own. I only say this because I like to use the safety. With the current trigger rod you have to either not take out the pre travel so the trigger can go all the way forward or not be able to use a safety. For people who don't use a safety you shouldn't have any issues.

[luke]

For walking the trigger especially with little room in the trigger guard for your fingers, concentrate on hitting the trigger guard with the back of your fingers rather than feeling the trigger on the pads of your fingers. I found that helps with short stroking, plus you can practice finger tapping anywhere anytime.

I dont feel so bad about how slow my fingers are now. lol.

[BLachance75]

For walking the trigger especially with little room in the trigger guard for your fingers, concentrate on hitting the trigger guard with the back of your fingers rather than feeling the trigger on the pads of your fingers. I found that helps with short stroking, plus you can practice finger tapping anywhere anytime.

I dont feel so bad about how slow my fingers are now. lol.

I'm going to blame my valve for how slow I am, yeah it is the valve's fault I can't move my fingers.

I do have a Classic valve with level 10 that I'm going to test out. It should be obvious that I can't shoot more than 10ish bps anyways.

[barkingspider]

Here is a video I made this morning, I have no idea why it is in this orientation, does anybody know if there is a way to turn it through Youtube? I'll rotate it at some point over the weekend and reupload it if I can't do it through Youtube.

In the video I'm using a tank with a Ninja reg that is outputting about 800psi. I don't know what the LPR is set at.

A few notes;
- I'm primarily a pump player and couldn't walk a trigger to save my life. I think the trigger shape isn't helping me either.
- I did adjust both trigger set screws to take up most of the pre/post travel.
- I have the LPR set about as low as it can go to make the OLTR function, this seems to give the lightest pull.
- If I put on my SHP tank which outputs about 1000psi I can get it to RT like mad with the LPR set at this setting. I think it is actually easier to control the RT with the OLTR than with a standard setup.
- At this point I prefer to use it with the 800psi tank. So far I've shot a 68/4500 at 800psi and a 88/4500 at 1000psi, most of this was dry firing.
- At 800psi with a .750 on/off pin I'm not getting a lot of RT effect but it makes the trigger the easiest to walk.
- Personally I'd prefer to have a slightly longer trigger rod, maybe 1/8th or 3/16th, and will probably buy a rod and make my own. I only say this because I like to use the safety. With the current trigger rod you have to either not take out the pre travel so the trigger can go all the way forward or not be able to use a safety. For people who don't use a safety you shouldn't have any issues.

Funny, I feel the same thing about the trigger, trigger rod and the use of a the safety. I just ordered the Anker Trigger, since that design is more of my style with my fat fingers. Minor adjustment to a great product IMO.

[cougar20th]

I completed and tested my first Cougar M86 build, it works great. No way to run the hidden reg on a retro fit though. Should be plenty of room if the frame had a build in mounting tab though.

If the mount would bolt to the top two threaded 6-32 holes,
then trim the lower mount hold off the mount plate as I described in my sale thread a LPR would fit into the frame..
I designed it to work with the ideal Fabco mounting first but also a secondary mounting position that allows LPR fitment after modifying the frame.

So whos frame?

[Dark Side]

What frame do you have? Why wont a MPA3 fit?

FBM Fierce frame. Needs an area milled off to mount the piston properly.

[luke]

If the mount would bolt to the top two threaded 6-32 holes,
then trim the lower mount hold off the mount plate as I described in my sale thread a LPR would fit into the frame..
I designed it to work with the ideal Fabco mounting first but also a secondary mounting position that allows LPR fitment after modifying the frame.

So whos frame?

The current mounting tab is basically free, a fancy tab that requires more complex machining would not be free. It remains to be seen if anyone would be willing to pay the price of the OLTR, a "fancy mount" plus frame machining to make it all work.

I'm certainly not saying it can't be done, I'm only saying that I doubt there would be support at the additional costs.

[BLachance75]

For those of you that are using Classic valves, are you using a regular on/off or a RT on/off.