Introducing The Deflator

[luke]

The classification only has two purposes: either it's a marketing gimmick that yields no effective value ("OMG IT'S UNIBODY!"), or it's there to clearly describe a break in compatibility. I.e. there are things about this product which might break typical expectations of part compatibility.

Yea, it's neither here or there, time will tell how people describe the design.

I'm not saying the break in compatibility is necessarily a bad thing, just speaking more to people getting a little too caught up in naming this and classification that and failing to see the forest for the trees.

Yea perhaps I do get a little caught in naming or classifying parts mainly because when people ask about different parts I make (family or friends mainly) sometimes it's difficult to explain. Like for instance the T-Rex what the hell is it? Well it's a "pneumatic paintball gun firing doohickey" lol, as far as I know there is not technical pneumatic term that would really describe it. Yea it's a poppet type, 3 way air valve, normally closed, but its actually more than that.

The rail thing is a neat idea. I can see that if you wanted, you could adjust the bias in the sear pin to be, say, slightly up or down, which is a tuning feature I've kind of wanted as well.

I found this specification all over the place on various Mags which I found curious. I was surprised that it would work so far out of spec, but they do. (So far out of spec is retaliative)

directly parallel to the feed

That's actually an illusion.

I've found there are... a few potential dangers to having a direct-acting (that's my name for one that is directly parallel to the feed) detent. Might depend on a few variables.

You put that very delicately. (lol) I actually thought I would have to defend that right out of the gate, I figured it would be the very first comment. It's the primary reason I didn't release the details until I knew it was a solid design. I didn't want the "common sense view" of the design to impend the R&D and put a negative spin on the project.

Actually the detent can not be depressed by the balls being feed into the breach as one would expect (i.e. common sense view). You have to consider the geometry involved, the breach is basically a 3/4" sphere , as are all Automags. We all know that paintballs are in the neighborhood of a .70" spherical diameter. The reason that is important is the bottom center point of the paintball (sphere) that touches the bottom of the breach is very small piece of real estate. In addition the detent is basically a ramp, low end at the ball high end leading into the "barrel portion" of the breach away from the paintball. In short the detent is actually located outside the breach perimeters. You can actually put a paintball in the breach, tilt the marker forward and it will not depress the detent. Really there is no way a ball can get on top of the detent because for all intents and purpose the detent is in the barrel.

Not sure if that makes sense(?)

[BigEvil]

Im wondering why you didnt go with Tippmann detents?

[luke]

Im wondering why you didnt go with Tippmann detents?

I dont really know anything about Tippmann except that newbies tend to gravitate to them. lol. Kidding aside dont they use a little rubber plug of some sort(?)

More direct to your question, I wanted to put my effort into manufacturing everything myself and not using other vendors parts. I could probably make molds and do something similar but this detent should last forever and you wont be shooting it out the end of your barrel. If the spring ever wears out a replacement can be easily found. It's an 1/8" diameter spring that is very common and comes in a wide variety of strengths, anywhere from less that a 1/4 lb up to and over 25lbs.

[BLachance75]

The sear is a standard AGD sear with a bushing and no modifications. The body is designed to AGD operational specifications I just did it differently.

Sorry I meant detent

[luke]

Sorry I meant detent

The detent is proprietary to this body, designed and manufactured in house. There was some concern early on to it being proprietary but really this should last a life time. I can make spares available at a reasonable price for anyone concerned but I'm not exiting the AM market anytime soon I'm just now getting started.

The spring and detent axle is a common off the shelf part.

[Nobody]

Lol... Nothing lasts forever. More people have to eat those words than you can count. Isn't there a set of steak knives that claim that they will be the last ones you ever need?

[luke]

Speaking of ano, are there enough people interested in getting this done in satin black that we could try to work some kind of group deal with an anodizer, and just have luke's send them straight to ano and then to us?

That would be doable if we can sell enough parts.

[luke]

Sort of similar to the Axe slightly, and its gas transfer plate.

What is that and how does it work? Links?

[going_home]

What is that and how does it work? Links?

Similar meaning it has the gas transfer plate (#38) between the grip frame and body.

http://www.piranha-evil.com/AXE%20BLOW%20UP.jpg

Simon disassembling his creation :

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YX33VL55Uac

[luke]

Simon is a genius, I was happy for him when he finally went out on his own so he could reap the rewards of his own creations.

Thanks for the links I was always curious about the Axe.

[going_home]

You should think about coming to Tunaball next year, he and Tuna are always there.

They both usually play too.

I hear they are trying to get TK to come again next year too.

They should be working on Dave Zupan too, he's never been.

[Walker]

That would be doable if we can sell enough parts.

Count me in.......


Walker

[luke]

I'll put this out there to get everyone's feedback on, I've mostly made up my mind but I'll listen to your opinions.

On the stainless steel spring cup I added two set screws in the body to hold it in place but after testing I noticed that it just worked free and left gouges and scratches on the outside of the cup. Really the only purpose for the set screws is so when you remove the valve assembly you dont have to keep track of the cup. From previous other tests I've discovered the the spring is much more abusive than I originally thought so it working loose wasn't a huge surprise. My opinion is that I should just leave the set screws out of the design and let the cup float inside the counterbore. I kind of dont care for how the set screws push the cup to one side anyway, that may or may not be a problem but I get nit picky about that stuff. lol. I've explored other options but I have no other options right now, either do to limitations for tooling or vendor supply's.

What do you guys think, would you be OK without the set screws?

[Walker]

I'd be Ok without them.......


Walker

[Laku]

Do a small channel around (if possible) the cup where the set screw tips locate?