**AO Research Team Test This Please**

[toymyster]

The O-ring is an interesting idea!!! Definitly keep us posted on that one!! CA glue should work if you prep the surfaces and clean them really well with isopropyl alcohol!!!

[toymyster]

By the way, for all of us who are testing this, try to find and use more brittle paint than you normally use!!!

[Paul La Rue]

I've modified both my bolts and I'll be trying them out this Sunday in my Emag. I was having some problems with barrel breaks last time I was out so it will be interesting to see if this helps...

[Paul La Rue]

After modifying both my Longnose and Superbolt, I was still breaking paint today.

I tried a couple different batches of Zap with little luck. No chops, all barrel breaks. I'm shooting a Freak and the stock barrel.

Not sure what to say, other than it's getting very tiring to keep cleaning out my barrels...

[AGD]

Thank you everyone for replying. We are working on the problem as we speak. Please stand by.

Thanks

AGD

[tomcat]

O-Ring on front of bolt

I tried using the o-ring on the front of my bolt. As suggested by several other people, the superglue was too brittle to last for an extended period of time. However, while the o-ring held I did not get any breaks in the barrel. 3 HALO hoppers full. I am going to try using the glue the others suggested next time and see what occurs. I am also going to try sticking two together to extend the length of the bolt so reduce ball slap.

I tried using a short nose foamie bolt that AGD was kind enoght to send. I filed the nose down so it looked like the one in the AGD picture. Nice and smooth and dremmel polished it to make sue there was no abrasive surface. This did help a little. I still got some breaks in the barrel as I increased the string rate (about 10 bps+).

Paint used:
Challenge Extreme Brass Eagle Super brittle (It breaks if you look at it too hard!). It broke every 5th or 6th ball. Will break on wood if dropped from 3 feet.

Also tried RPS with the "new" starch shell (Don't EVER use this stuff below 55 degrees..!!!).
This broke about 1 in 30 during rapid fire.
breaks if dropped twice from 4 feet onto wood surface.

Also tried Diablo Hell fire paint. Thick gelatine coating!
Shot the best but still broke 1 per hundred at least as I shot faster (Note: always using a Vert Feed Halo Hooper)

BIG OBSERVATION>>>>

Some paintballs were dimpled. If the dimple was on the side of the paintball where the ball detente is, the ball would slip past the ball detente closer to the barrel. This allowed the ball to move forward about an eighth of an inch (5-7mm). This means that the ball is really getting slapped by the bolt and could potentially lead to the ball breaking as it enters the barrel. I also saw a number of breaks in the breech (but I did say the paint was brittle!!..except the diablo stuff)

Also thought about putting rubber at end of bolt instead of o-ring. I am concerned about that because a softer rubber might hit the next ball in line and make it jump (kinda like blow-back/ jumping up and down on a trampoline sort of thing) and then get chopped when it goes to feed.

Also, I made a mould (SP?) of the breech (vert feed) out of clear glass/resin so I could watch the balls feeding using a high speed digital camera (borrowed from school!). I am going to try it out this weekend so I can see what actually happens.

Better end this..getting too long!

[tomcat]

A new bolt design

If the end of the bolt is breaking the next ball in line then it must be at the point I have circled in the diagram. That is because the gap between the ball being shot and the front of the bolt leaves a gap wide enough for the next ball to fall into, and get hit hard enough to break. (See "A")

A better solution then would be to make the front of the bolt concave (See "B"). This would be an advantage in two ways.
1. The ball is hugged as it is fired which steadies the ball and puts less stress on it at a single impact point.
2. It removes the gap that the next ball would fall into preventing breakage.

What do you guys think!

[BTAutoMag]

well i think that you should delete one of your posts. i got it in the first one and the whole concave idea is what a venturi bolt is about.

[Bonx0007]

Tooo add to what bt said... I was under the impression that the bolt never touchd the ball in the chamber only the ball on deck. The air moves the ball out of harms way before the bolt has a chance to even touch it. correct me if i am wrong.

[tomcat]

Venturi et al

Don't know about the whole venturi thing really. I am just looking at it from a logical perspective..ie. It just seems to make sence!

AGD was asking us to file the sharp edge off of the front of the bolt so that it would not crack the next one in line; thus, we should assume that the bolt IS hitting (or rubbing) the next ball in line. Also with the advent of things like the HALO hopper you will notice that the hopper virtually pushes down several balls and will not allow them back in the opposite direction (great for bunker maniacs who go to shoot vertically and find the ball went back into the hopper); this also prevents the balls being allowed to blow back up the hopper after each shot (blowback is generally not a good thing!).

I think that the ball that is in the breech actually comes in contact with the bolt initially atleast. Otherwise why bother inventing the foamie bolt in the first place

[toymyster]

The paintballs can generally withstand the impact of the bolt, as long as the bolt did not cut them while they were waiting to be chambered!!!

[tomcat]

Bolt V Ball

Yes, you are right. The ball can generally withstand the force of the bolt hitting it. Otherwise atleast 90% of the markers out there would not work

I have read up on Venturi bolts over the last couple of days. My idea for the bolt is different to what the venturi bolt was designed for as I would dismiss the Venturi bolt based on its design as an improved flow path. In my mind flow has little to do with improved velocity to pressure ratios (other than to alter the temperature of the gas sometimes).

The importance of my idea is that it prevents the gap that the next ball on deck can fall into (most important because that is what is cutting the balls I think).
This means that the ball will not get chopped and is less likely to jump up and get chopped when it gets out of sync with the next bolt shot because everything will be smoother.

Any other benefit that the concave shape may have is relatively unimportant in this case!

Forget about the theory of flow paths and start thinking "fill the space and calm the ball"!

[xmetal2001]

just incase you still need results:

Daytime temp = ? about 75
Weather conditions = Partly-Cloudy

Bounce Test all numbers= I don't have all the numbers but if iremember this is about a 3 boucne paint

Edge rating prior to sanding=7
After sanding=3

Total paint shot=1000
Total barrel breaks= 1

Better than usual? = A little.

Comments:

[Strider]

UP

UP!

[Jonno06]

can someone please give me a step-by-step on how to sand down the bolt?

i really dont want to mess the bolt up before I play with it one time....

ill put up the info after i play this weekend....