Intimidator Cycle Speed (VIDEO)

[gatorchris]

There was talk of overpressuring, I was just providing input on what and where it could happen. You also posted this, which you admitted you dont understand the marker fully. Robo, I thought the discussion was related to cycling, not shootdown. Cycling of course comes from the noid moving the ram, and the LPR supplies the noid, and the inline supplies the LPR. We all seem to agree on that. I guess my direction was to negate the question of "boosting" and its effects. If the LPR isnt keeping up the cycling will go down because the noid would starve, so what good does it do to only boost at the inline? And springs? There is only one spring on the poppet, and it wouldnt help since its keeping the valve closed If anything you would have to up the LPR to compensate, which of course you cant do. I fully understand the timmy, Ive been shooting them since they were the big ugly marker with two funky things on the front Either way, I thought I read some talk about boosting the pressure and blowing the noid, matter of fact the quote in robo's post mentions it. It appears everyone here does NOT understand the marker.

also i would like to point out that running 500 psi into the intimidator should not blow a solenoid if i understand the gun correctly because the only air going to the solenoid is regulated by the lpr which is set too 100 or 50 or whatever

[Vern1]

Greetings,
It DOES cycle pretty fast WITHOUT paint, don't it.
How fast is it?
I don't care!
Show me something with a PERSON actually pulling the trigger in Semi-Auto while shooting paint if you want to impress me.
Full-Auto "no-paint air gituar" will certainly impress newbies and amuse some folks - throw in a few splits, high jumps and a spandex suit and you have a complete show.
It has a place in demonstrating capabilities, but no place in the "real world" of paintball.
Real no-trigger-bounce tourney legal one-shot-one-pull semi-auto paint shooting WILL win tourneys, not FA.

OK, now for some Timmi info, this is here to inform and not flame or anything, just educate:
The stock Torpedo doesn't like more than 500 PSI going into it or it will eventually leak and over pressureze the valve. The internals are a direct copy of the Palmer Stabalizer with the exception of the seat. The Torpedo uses a urethane o-ring and the Palmer uses a harder seat that will stand higher input pressures. Yes, you can put the Stab seat in the Torpedo and run at higher input pressures just like the Stab - that's the hot ticket for folks with a screw-in HP(700-850 PSI) tank.
When you go over about 350 PSI into the valve assembly, the LP reg/Solenoid doesn't have enough forward momentum to open the poppet fully and the balls will just roll out of the barrel.
The LP reg uses the same exact components as the Torpedo and is a pretty good regulator. Like all regulators, they like clean air and some lube on occasion.
The Solenoid is a COTS (commercial off the shelf) unit that is rated for up to 125 PSI. As a safety valve, the hoses usually will leak or blow off if you approach these pressures - but don't count on it saving your 'noid EVERY TIME.
When you get over about 100, the solenoid does drag more because of internal friction of the o-rings expanding due to the pressure. It also flows better at a slightly lower pressure because of internal turbulence when the air gets to flowing around corners, o-rings, etc. Cavitation is the term I have heard used, but sounds kinda funny to me in this instance as we are talking just air here and not a mixture of air and another fluid.

How does it work(rememeber this will happen many times a second!)
1. You pull the trigger
2. The eyes "look" at each other to check for paint in the breech.
3. Eyes see no paint - marker delays, then fires leading to a possible chop or pinch (the WAS board has a forced mode that won't shoot unless the ball is fully seated).
OR
Eye sees paint and fires immediately by triggering the pulse to the solenoid.
4. The solenoid opens and sends LP air to the back of the ram.
5. The ram moves forward taking the bolt and hopefully the paintball with it.
6. The ram hits the valve at the end of travel and opens up which pushes the ball out of the barrel with HP air.
7. The solenoid goes back to it's unpowered state and the LP air is redirected to the front of the ram sending the ram/bolt back to the starting point.
8. Go back to 1.

Hope this clears up some confusion.